EWS! Starts, runs, cuts out on the road then clears itself only to do it again...

Removed the ign. switch module and stripped for investigation. There are two microswitches in there that are almost definitely not serviceable. However they click and do what mico switches do and the inside is clean and dry. Reassembled and refitted.
The more I look at this the more I'm leaning towards stripping the entire front end off to get better access to the bendy part of the loom. I could then pull the suspect portion back through the headstock with far better access. Am I being dramatic? Surely to God you boys didn't attempt a loom repair in the limited space available in situ or am I being a girl?
You can tell me straight - I have grandchildren I'd like to see in the next few weeks....
BTW, mine is an Adventure with Mr Wassell's HID conversion to heads and aux's. Loads going on in the front there.
 
Fluffy Bridges said:
The more I look at this the more I'm leaning towards stripping the entire front end off to get better access to the bendy part of the loom. I could then pull the suspect portion back through the headstock with far better access. Am I being dramatic? Surely to God you boys didn't attempt a loom repair in the limited space available in situ or am I being a girl?
Click to expand...
Your being a girl!

1790182004040.jpg

You cant pull everything out , its all connected lol

Remove all the front plastics
Tank
ZFe's have to be moved if i recall
Kombi as well

yes its a PITA to get to but your starting with the bits that appear to be cable tied (tightly)

If its a twisted pair, it needs to remain a twisted pair idealy ;)

I soldered in a long extra section, retwisted the pair and then made the join

Heatshrink tubing is a must, saves faffing around with tapes for the individual wires lol

Just percerveriance and a desire to get it done i did it over a weekend

Saturday to strip and find the breaks

Sunday to repair, retape ,refix reassemble

:)

But make sure you check it all before you put it back together ;)

Mine was easier just a simple EWS
 
BMW used wiring looms with not much slack, compounded by some tight cable ties. Little surprise the headstock area is a prime place for repeated flexing wires to fail.
 
Ah, yes. re Santa's pic blue/white wire is no.4 on EWS plug to pin 55. Twisted wires are no. 2+3 EWS plug to pins 43 and 55.

I've done a continuity test on my EWS wiring and that tests out OK to pins 8, 43, 55, 57. Result.

Sheathing removed from wiring under headstock and that's all in tact. No apparent breakages up to where it merges into the main fat loom.

I'd like to check out the wiring from both the ing. switch and the panic button but there is a discrepancy in the PIN numbers published and what's available on my pin plugs.
However, the green ign. switch wire to battery positive terminal (terminal removed from battery post!) tests positive for continuity. Not sure how to test the red wire as it probably goes to the panic button then on somewhere.....

My Haynes is '04-'06 and agrees with Santa's on-line wiring diagram he posted a link to. Bikes a non-servo '07 so I'm waiting for a '04-'09 Haynes manual to see if it's different. Probably not but I need to confirm.

From then on I haven't a clue. Could be anything.



IMG_1933.JPG
 
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Fluffy Bridges said:
Ah, yes. re Santa's pic blue/white wire is no.4 on EWS plug to pin 55. Twisted wires are no. 2+3 EWS plug to pins 43 and 55.

I've done a continuity test on my EWS wiring and that tests out OK to pins 8, 43, 55, 57. Result.

Sheathing removed from wiring under headstock and that's all in tact. No apparent breakages up to where it merges into the main fat loom.

I'd like to check out the wiring from both the ing. switch and the panic button but there is a discrepancy in the PIN numbers published and what's available on my pin plugs.
However, the green ign. switch wire to battery positive terminal (terminal removed from battery post!) tests positive for continuity. Not sure how to test the red wire as it probably goes to the panic button then on somewhere.....

My Haynes is '04-'06 and agrees with Santa's on-line wiring diagram he posted a link to. Bikes a non-servo '07 so I'm waiting for a '04-'09 Haynes manual to see if it's different. Probably not but I need to confirm.

From then on I haven't a clue. Could be anything.



View attachment 542105
Click to expand...
I’ve a Haynes manual I can photograph it in the morning? Edit I got it from the shed. Which model is it? Haynes only has the adv..
 
Last edited:
I can take better photos tomorrow if you can confirm it’s what you need.
 
Comfy Old Boots said:
I can take better photos tomorrow if you can confirm it’s what you need.
Click to expand...
Comfy Old Boots,
Got the more up to date Haynes for '04-'09. It has what you very thoughtfully posted above.
I Thank You!
Now exploring with a bit more confidence.

I have found Watty100's post re "EWS! ....... Scrap Heap" Very interesting and almost the same problems as I have. I need to read it a couple of times to get it in my head.

Also helps to know the difference between the ZFE and BMS-K and what they actually do... This "project" has shown me I'm not as competent as I thought I was and that age diminishes acuity.... every day's a school day.

Bless you lot.

Simon.
 
Last edited:
Some progress has been made but not what I was hoping.

Firstly, voltage across battery, battery +ive to eng. earth lead and eng. casing is 13.00v. So we have adequate power at the battery and no drop across the engine casing earth.

BMS-K, small plug, pin 6 permanent live reading 13v to battery -ve. Pin 6 to engine earth 12.99v. ECU is getting power. Good.

Switch on ign. BMS-K, small plug pin 34, should have 12v from ign. switch, reading 0v. No power to pin 34. No display on instrument cluster, no lights, nothing anywhere else. Wiggled wires under head stock, nothing. Unplugged EWS and connected spare with key in the ring. Swithed on ign, nothing. This is new. Up till now something has happened when the ign. is turned on. So I've either buggered something or whatever the problem is, it's now worse. Earlier testing showed continuity between green wire on ign plug to battery positive terminal as OK. :blast

Tomorrow I'll check for power at the ignition switch plug, both sides, through the ign. switch and through the kill switch.
 
Just be careful your not running down a rabbit hole

Go back to square one and reasses your problem :)



You have two problems

The EWS & the cutting out

Have you solved the EWS issue ?

Have you solved the cutting out ?

Both however can give a similar end result

The EWS will only prevent starting , once the trigger has been sent the ECU will allow starting , it should not send any other non start signals untill the ignition is cycled


The cutting out is another issue altoghether

Have you tried fittind the back up ring antenna and going for a ride ?

Just unplug the current ring antenna , and plug in the new one, place the key through it and start the bike ,

if it starts then thats tick one

Tape it somewhere on the headstock and go for a ride

if no issues , then the ring antenna is was /faulty

if you get the same symptoms , it points to something ither than the ring anttenna

Re the cutting out,

thats the difficult one ,

If you have a gs911 you could take the bike for a run with some diagnotisc , logging, and see whats happening

think of what your doing, bar position, bike angle , what gear you are in, throttle amount

then you can look at the diagnostic traces , and see if the throw up any clues

How much of the wiring did you strip back at the headstock ?

did you go far enough back in the loom?

id be continuity testing all the wiring from the ignition swith back to the ECU ,

Turning the bars side to side whilst doing the checks

(appologies if your allready doin this )

I know its a PITA been there and done this before - i was lucky lol
 
EWS errors you had can't cut the bike out

wires or dying ZFE ?
 
Santa-2512 said:
Just be careful your not running down a rabbit hole

Go back to square one and reasses your problem :)



You have two problems

The EWS & the cutting out

Have you solved the EWS issue ?

Have you solved the cutting out ?

Both however can give a similar end result

The EWS will only prevent starting , once the trigger has been sent the ECU will allow starting , it should not send any other non start signals untill the ignition is cycled


The cutting out is another issue altoghether

Have you tried fittind the back up ring antenna and going for a ride ?

Just unplug the current ring antenna , and plug in the new one, place the key through it and start the bike ,

if it starts then thats tick one

Tape it somewhere on the headstock and go for a ride

if no issues , then the ring antenna is was /faulty

if you get the same symptoms , it points to something ither than the ring anttenna

Re the cutting out,

thats the difficult one ,

If you have a gs911 you could take the bike for a run with some diagnotisc , logging, and see whats happening

think of what your doing, bar position, bike angle , what gear you are in, throttle amount

then you can look at the diagnostic traces , and see if the throw up any clues

How much of the wiring did you strip back at the headstock ?

did you go far enough back in the loom?

id be continuity testing all the wiring from the ignition swith back to the ECU ,

Turning the bars side to side whilst doing the checks

(appologies if your allready doin this )

I know its a PITA been there and done this before - i was lucky lol
Click to expand...
Santa,

Firstly, thank you for your continued input. It's a great help especially as you seem to have troubles of your own...... (y)

Have I sorted the EWS! problem? Yes, I think so, see below.
Have I sorted the cutting out problem? No.
How much stripped back? From where the fuel controller, ignition switch and EWS join the loom to where that lot join the main loom on the frame.

My intention was to chase down the 0v at the key switch this morning. Hands up, this turned out to be my fault. I'd put the plug in arse backwards and of course it hadn't gone home despite thinking it had, hence no life at the dash. Reversed the plug and LO! life restored. Idiot.

Status: tank off therefore fuel gauge and pump disconnected as is the horn.

Ignition on; warning triangle on, neutral light on, brake fail flashing, gear indicator displaying N and when checked 1,2,3 etc., parking light on. In fact, perfectly normal. FUEL! alternating with LAMPF! displayed as the tank isn't on and the HID's don't come on till the engine is running (except for a single flash when the ignition is turned on which isn't happening right now). I'm not concerned about the latter until the problem is fixed.

Swung the handle bars left, right a couple of times, no change. Manipulated the wires under the headstock and it failed with usual EWS!. Continued to fiddle with the wires it came back to life then failed again. This happened a couple of times in succession. Good. Got a clue to follow up. Ignition off, and back on normal service resumed then without doing anything it failed with EWS! displayed. This mimics cutting out on the road. By now I'm taking the EWS! display as a symptom not a cause. Ignition off. Disconnected key antenna and plugged in the spare with the spare key sat in it. Ignition on, normal service resumed for a few seconds then fail as before. I'm now dismissing the ring antenna as the problem as the ignition and dash fire up with both antennas before failing.

There's no point in attempting a ride as at the moment it wouldn't get off the drive let alone up the road. However I'm going to fit the tank and run it up to prove the the engine still runs in a moment. Then run the GS911 again.

Tank on, ignition on, start her up, runs as it should then fails. Tried again and confirms original problem.

Tank off, GS911 connected and run diagnostic. Results below. The fuel controller fault is a symptom of the tank being off.

Can't attached the report at the moment for some reason.

Dogs need walking so do it when I'm back.
 
AutoScan Report
GS-911 Legacy version: 2301.1 Datapack version: 15.1
Serial Number: GS60603107
Firmware version: 0.21.C
Registered to: Simon Lester
Date: 30/09/2026 Time: 14:42:54
Motorcycle Information
VIN : WB10382037ZU79228
Bike model : R 1200 GS Adv. (K25)
Mileage : 64280.0 km
Vehicle Order from Engine Controller : Valid
Vehicle Order from Vehicle Electronics : Valid
Vehicle Order :
.. Date : 0807
.. Series : K25
.. Type : 0382
.. Paint : 0751
.. Upholstery : 0000
.. Extras :
.... 321 : Headlight, left asymmetric
.... 326 : Speedometer mph
.... 381 : Operating instructions, English
.... 519 : Heated handlebar grips
.... 539 : On-board computer
.... 630 : I-ABS generation 2
.... 736 : National version Great Britain
BMS-KP
BMS type:BMS-KP
Controller Type:Engine Controller
Controller:6010
Part No.:7717143
Hardware Index:10
Coding Index:02
Manufacture Date (YY/MM/DD):2007-07-10
MCV:0.6.0
FSV:0.77.31
OSV:2.3.1
Manufacturer:Bosch GmbH
HWOE No.:25915607
Program status:310I
Date release:5C10
Factory I-Level:K024-07-08-500
Actual I-Level:K024-08-01-500
VIN model year:2007
1 fault codes found:

10167Output stage to Electric Fuel Pump faulty (Most likely: Fuel pump electronics/driver)
The fault is currently present.
Integral ABS 2 - CAN
Controller Type:ABS Brakes
Part No.:7711978
HW Version No.:C1
Coding Index:0
Manufacturing Date:2007-07-04
HWOE No.:25697919
Manufacturer:Continental Teves
MCV:0.6.0
FSV:2.2.0
OSV:3.3.0
Free programming slots:1
Serial No.:6774000DD
Hardware No.:07682002
Hardware star No.:07711978
4 fault codes found:

54100CAN-bus timeout from Engine
The fault is not present now.
54101CAN-bus timeout from Engine
The fault is not present now.
54104CAN-bus timeout from KOMBI
The fault is not present now.
54113CAN-bus timeout from ZFE
The fault is not present now.
Anti-Theft Alarm / Tyre Pressure Monitor
RDC/DWA type:Anti-Theft Alarm / Tyre Pressure Monitor
Controller Type:Anti-Theft Alarm / Tyre Pressure Monitor
Part No.:7713340
Hardware Index:11
Coding Index:4
Manufacturer:Gemel
HWOE No.:25741583
MCV:0.6.0
FSV:2.3.0
OSV:3.2.1
No fault codes found
CAN-Kombi H/L
Cluster type:CAN-Kombi H/L
Controller Type:Instrument Cluster
Controller:6100
Part No.:7718195
Hardware Index:05
Coding Index:06
Manufacturer:Siemens VDO Automotive
Manufacture Date (YY/MM/DD):2006-08-18
MCV:0.6.0
FSV:3.1.2
OSV:3.3.10
HWOE No.:25907639
Assembly No.:7718196
Variant:K25 Adventure
Factory I-Level:K024-07-08-500
Actual I-Level:K024-08-01-500
3 fault codes found:

37651CAN-bus timeout with BMS-K control unit
The fault is not present now.
37652CAN-bus timeout with BMS-K control unit
The fault is not present now.
37663CAN-bus timeout: Communication of backup vehicle mileage (BMSKP/KOMBI)
The fault is not present now.
ZFE-Basic
ZFE type:ZFE-Basic
Controller Type:Vehicle Electronics
Controller:6A00
Part No.:7718033
Hardware Index:C7
Coding Index:09
Manufacture Date (YY/MM/DD):2004-03-01
MCV:0.6.0
FSV:2.1.1
OSV:3.3.0
Manufacturer:Loewe / Lear
HWOE No.:25910439
Factory I-Level:K024-07-08-500
Actual I-Level:K024-08-01-500
Speed sensor manufacturer is Bosch
Speed sensor type is DF11
ABS fitted
Heated grips
Outside temperature sensor
Brake light switch status over CAN
Rear bulb replacement
Film type fuel sensor
Manual low beam off switch
Storage of temperature indication when engine hot
4 fault codes found:

41726Low beam headlight 1 open-circuit
The fault is currently present.
41753Can bus OFF
The fault is not present now.
41754CAN-bus timeout to BMS-K (engine) control module
The fault is not present now.
41778Tank sensor heating element malfunction
The fault is currently present.

Low beam open circuit is something to look into - that's why the HID's don't flash/fire up. Accept for now.

Tank sensor - yes, the effing tank gauge has failed for the umpteenth time so I use the trip. About as reliable as a politician.
 
Bloody good work so far --

my observations

I think your diagnosis of not the ring antenna is correct,

The chances of replacing a failed antenna with another failed unit are possible but extremely rare

The wiggling the loom and recreating the EWS fault does tend to indicate a wiring issue

This could be

A broken wire in another portion of the loom - visible break

or a broken wire and the break is internal so you still have a continious piece of loom (basdtid to find lol)

A pin backed out from one of the connector plugs , and not making 100% contact


The best way to fins a break for these defects sd multimeter and lamp or buzzer

connecto one end to the ZFE - BMSK plug and the other to one of the ews wires and then wiggle the loom rinse and repeat for any other wires you want to check

Wires that fail, are the ones that need further investigation



The other way is plug in the GS911, set diagognotic logging and wiggle the loom,

one of your data line your loggind should how a drop out or loss of power

You can then chase than down via haynes

The other one that might be worth checking out is the fuel pump flag

a failing fuel pump or FPC (controller ) could give the misfire symptoms

You could do the FPC hack to rule out the FPC that way if your still getting the message it could be the fuel pump in the tank
 
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