10lb electricians screwdriver.
You will feel good at the time.
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You will feel good at the time.
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
EWS warning
- Thread starter Santa-2512
- Start date
Yes i understand the theraputic bit, but the amount of gaffa tape afterwards might not look pretty 
Grr
Took the beak and tank side panels off, and started to work on the loom
Stripped it back the the first branch - Ignition switch - no break evident
Ive released it from under the headstock - not yet stripped but still can get it to fail or work
the next big branch is the biggy just infront of the tank it's cable tied there, not tight but if i push and pull there it i can get the EWS to trigger..
Only trouble is that to get that lump out and have a good look ive got to take the switches of the bars and remove the tank,
which i know will be a world of trouble.
How hard is removing the tank and what known issues are there?
Took the beak and tank side panels off, and started to work on the loom
Stripped it back the the first branch - Ignition switch - no break evident
Ive released it from under the headstock - not yet stripped but still can get it to fail or work
the next big branch is the biggy just infront of the tank it's cable tied there, not tight but if i push and pull there it i can get the EWS to trigger..
Only trouble is that to get that lump out and have a good look ive got to take the switches of the bars and remove the tank,
which i know will be a world of trouble.
How hard is removing the tank and what known issues are there?
Well its fixed 
As i thought broken wire
Right under the headstock
So virtually the whole of the front end was stripped for access
The wire further back didnt look too clever, so that was cut back and replaced.
Some strange ways of putting it together
Quick Q how tight should the filler flap ring be? i couldnt see a torque value anywhere so ive nipped them ish
i dont want to strip them or pull them out , but i dont want fuel / fumes leaking either
As i thought broken wire
Right under the headstock
So virtually the whole of the front end was stripped for accessThe wire further back didnt look too clever, so that was cut back and replaced.
Some strange ways of putting it together
Quick Q how tight should the filler flap ring be? i couldnt see a torque value anywhere so ive nipped them ish
i dont want to strip them or pull them out , but i dont want fuel / fumes leaking either
Fucking tight, then a little bit more to be sure.
If you check size of bolt/thread the Society of Automotive Engineers used to have a list of torque settings. It'll be online somewhere.
BZ
Congratulations on finding the fault, you did use the same coloured wire as replacement section ??
time to put feet up and relax.
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If you check size of bolt/thread the Society of Automotive Engineers used to have a list of torque settings. It'll be online somewhere.
BZ
Congratulations on finding the fault, you did use the same coloured wire as replacement section ??
time to put feet up and relax.
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Indeed,
Screen, beak, headlight, clocks, sidecovers back to the tank. All off.
Then i hand to move throttle cable & ZFE out of the way.
That allowed me to get to the main branche of the loom and i worked forward.
Both hands of the bars were run in the loom with the EWS & ignition switch, so i had to cut that all free.
That allowed me to pull the shonky bit back toward the ZFE so i could cut it out and solder in a new section, and no i didnt match the wire (Henry Ford)
Re-routed and all taped up / cable tied (loose) and everything put back together & tested
Just got to refit the Givi screen tommorow.
Looking back, i could have left the tank top plastic in place, but i didnt know if thee were any fixings underneath it i needed to get to
And yes i feel knackerd
Due a beer or three me thinks.
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Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
(RIP) Bin Ridin
Registered user
Well done, that took patience!
Indeed,
I also sorted the headlamp aim which has been wonky of late.
Stipping it all out i found that when i had adjusted it last time, i misunderstood the relationship of the passenger adjustor
I allready had the reflector at it lowest position and by pulling it down, all i did was pop it off the adjustment ball so it was just
aimed in the sky.
Now seated properly, and readjusted,
I have a defined line on the right, a cast to the left, and i dont illuminate motoway signs
I also sorted the headlamp aim which has been wonky of late.
Stipping it all out i found that when i had adjusted it last time, i misunderstood the relationship of the passenger adjustor
I allready had the reflector at it lowest position and by pulling it down, all i did was pop it off the adjustment ball so it was just
aimed in the sky.
Now seated properly, and readjusted,
I have a defined line on the right, a cast to the left, and i dont illuminate motoway signs
Bendy toy
Registered user
Also check the wires near battery alongside the air intake box. They run in a plastic channel and get chafed. Chop out the bad bit, solder in a new section of wire and heatshrink sleeve. The wire ends will still be the same same as before so no worries about your fix confusing future electricians. Don't shove the wires back in too hard and consider taping any that look vulnerable.
Bendy toy
Registered user
So did I until a pal had wiring faults caused by insulation rubbed through. 
Mine had worn flat in places so was ok with some PVC tape wrapping. I also disentangled the heavy duty main power cable and ran it along the top of the loom bundle. Not sure if that was totally necessary but harmless to do and made sense at the time.
Mine had worn flat in places so was ok with some PVC tape wrapping. I also disentangled the heavy duty main power cable and ran it along the top of the loom bundle. Not sure if that was totally necessary but harmless to do and made sense at the time.
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