Final drive bearing rumbling AGAIN!!!

haydw

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I replaced my final drive bearing at 32k last year myself- it lasted about 3.5k miles before it started rumbling again. Thinking I had done something wrong in the assembly I let a pro replace it- RGM did a very good efficient job last August at about 36k miles. I am now at 42k miles and it is rumbling AGAIN!!!

Why on earth would they keep failing? I am going to have a word with Roy tomorrow to see what he suggests, but I am going through final drive bearings faster than I wear through tyres.

Anyone got any ideas how I can make it last a bit longer or how long I should expect out of a bearing???
 
I replaced my final drive bearing at 32k last year myself- it lasted about 3.5k miles before it started rumbling again. Thinking I had done something wrong in the assembly I let a pro replace it- RGM did a very good efficient job last August at about 36k miles. I am now at 42k miles and it is rumbling AGAIN!!!

Why on earth would they keep failing? I am going to have a word with Roy tomorrow to see what he suggests, but I am going through final drive bearings faster than I wear through tyres.

Anyone got any ideas how I can make it last a bit longer or how long I should expect out of a bearing???

I replaced mine around 40,000 km,s ago not the seal just the bearing as it was weeping, nothing since and it gets seriously abused on gravel and sand roads, I can only sugest get it shimmed right, I assume mine was pretty well set up as one bearing in 98,600km,s aint bad???

Welsh :thumb
 
Heat the cover before fitting over the bearing, it stops it being loaded on one side.
 
Is the shimming being checked after the bearings been replaced?
 
Is the shimming being checked after the bearings been replaced?

The shimming remains unchanged when just replacing the 'wheel' bearing as the new one will be exactly the same size.
 
A new bearing may not just fall exactly where the old one was, and from the low mileage failures haydw’s suffering since the original bearing was replaced, something needs checking, and shimming would seem a wise place to start.

One thought maybe that if the inner race edge radius is slightly different to the original, when it’s dropped on to the crown wheel it could end up at a different height to the old one.
 
Simple logic:

If it packs itself up in short mileage again-and-again, then it's 99% sure it's wrongly shimmed. That approx 1% is left for radial play, that is very rare - the main shaft in FD is glued together from 2 parts, so the glue can crack and it can develop radial play.

9 cases out of 10 you do not need to re-shim, since the new bearing IS the same width, at least if it has the same part number (usually it's FAG part). But as sayed - if it blows in short mileage then very probably it is wrong shimming.

I'd say: if your bearing goes over 50K miles w/o any problems, then DO NOT re-shim, use the old shims, since it's normal wear. If less than that - RE-CHECK the shimming and re-shim. An exception would be if you do freqent hardcore offroad, extreme hot conditions, ride in third-world potholed roads with fully loaded bike etc. abusive use for the drive-train and axles.

I replaced mine just as a perventive maintenance @ 65K miles, because the seal started to slowly leak and I had only 1 seal + 1 bearing set, so if the bearing had gone later (then usually the seal also goes, even if it's new) then I wouldn't had the seal in the middle of nowhere in South-American patagonia. Judging from the fine metal dust on the magnet (no big pieces yet) I'd say the bearing would had done at least 10-20K miles more - and that's mostly 2 up full geared bike (around 450 kilograms!) + bad third-world roads. So they do last if they're correctly shimmed and oils changed frequently (I do @ every 6K miles if possible). In extremely hot, fully loaded bike and hard conditions I recommend to run xW-140 in the FD box, everywhere else standard xW-80/90 works just fine.

And NOTE that you have to check the correct shimming when the FD box is in the working temperature (around 70-80-ish Celsius). Reading around the net lot of guys try to do it in cold and complain about blowing up too often - when cold you get plain wrong results on measuring the freeplay - I tryed to test it and I was amazed how much the freeplay varyes in FD with temperature.
 


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