Final drive bearing

[Littledumptruck]

Is there a thread showing step by step details of replacing the final drive bearings?

I have done a search, found a Steptoe one that talks more about checking it by removing the oil seal, but that's lost all its photos as they were saved elsewhere rather than on here.
Also found a advrider link where the guy goes off into replacing the swing arm bearings more than the FD.

My 850 needs doing, trying to suss if I can do it, or if I can remove the FD to take it to Motoscot or another local guy. Was hoping to find a simpletons step by step guide.

Is it best to buy new bearings and seals from main dealer or motorworks/sherlocks? Cheers guys

 

[Littledumptruck]

Found this one Utube
Part one
http://youtu.be/GaJRMzTMLm0
And part two
http://youtu.be/INmmJBI0_iw

 

[Canuck]

Not sure I'd bash it out onto the concrete floor like that. The little tapered needle bearing does not necessarily need to be replaced... untill you get crap in it or dent it on the conrete floor. For a better video try https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8_4lpAFLqk The process is no different (Full disclosure, I didn't watch the first one but started wincing when the guy forgot to remove the brake calliper and seemed to be rushing too much) but I'm expecting things to go wrong for that first guy.

 

[Littledumptruck]

I reckon a mix of the two styles that guys a bit gung ho with his windy gun
I'm starting to think I can sort it myself though. Found another write up on advrider.

 

[Canuck]

You tube also contains a nice video showing how to shim it properly as well. Some people don't think it's important but it made a huge difference to my bike.

 

[buellzebub]

This is the guide I used, ignoring the bit about removing the swing arm, here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234400#
It worked fine for me, it's a very straight forward job; the only slightly 'uncommon' tool you'll need is a 7mm Allen key although I believe you can use a Torx bit at a push but not sure which one. I can't remember if it mentions it in the guides but it's a good idea to put a blob of paint on the UJ and the drive shaft so you get the phasing right when you reassemble (double check by looking up the swing arm cavity with a torch, you should be able to make out the UJ at the gearbox end)
It was the first time I'd changed one but having done it once I now know I could do it by the roadside if need be - it really is that easy.

 

[Slipperyeel]

The videos are useful (if you haven't done the job - which I haven't). In addition to buellzebub's comment about the 7mm Allen key it would look like an extractor in the tool kit would be a good idea? My question is, how difficult is it to re-fit the new bearing on the road side without the heat/freezing of the parts? Does that bearing put up a fight or is it just a matter of gently persuading it over a longer period?

 

[buellzebub]

You don't need a puller, I used a pair of tyre levers and gently eased it up and off. A pair of screwdrivers would work just as well. Once it's moving it doesn't need much pressure to get it off, you just need to keep it as square as you can so it doesn't bind. If it does bind, just gently tap down the 'high' edge to get it level again. Regarding the heating/freezing, the new bearing can be wedged onto one of the front downpipes (as per Steptoe's guide) and warmed on there, while taking care not to overheat the engine. I did mine at home so I used the oven and freezer method. The new bearing literally dropped home with just the lightest of taps to ensure it was seated correctly. Some kind of hammer, or something that could be used as a hammer, would be useful but not essential, you don't want to be hitting the new bearing too hard,

 

[kennyc]

This is the guide I used, ignoring the bit about removing the swing arm, here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234400#
It worked fine for me, it's a very straight forward job; the only slightly 'uncommon' tool you'll need is a 7mm Allen key although I believe you can use a Torx bit at a push but not sure which one. I can't remember if it mentions it in the guides but it's a good idea to put a blob of paint on the UJ and the drive shaft so you get the phasing right when you reassemble (double check by looking up the swing arm cavity with a torch, you should be able to make out the UJ at the gearbox end)
It was the first time I'd changed one but having done it once I now know I could do it by the roadside if need be - it really is that easy.

7mm allen key...easily attainable on EBay its the size used on a lot of car brake adjusters, no need to remove the final drive from the bike, no need for a puller, heat is an advantage, as is a hammer

 

[buellzebub]

..... no need to remove the final drive from the bike,

Absolutely right! I'd already fitted a spare FD to mine so had the luxury of being able to do the job on the bench. My original drive is now on the shelf ready to be refitted when needed. I also carry a spare bearing and oil seal, along with some fuel line connectors and few other bits and bobs in a small sandwich box under the tank where the ABS pump normally sits.

 

[buellzebub]

Regarding replacement oil for a roadside repair, Steptoe suggests you can drain a little from the gearbox and use that to get you to the nearest garage or indeed supermarket these days
Or you may be able to just carry on to the nearest garage and change it there. When mine failed it just started rumbling and didn't lose any oil from the oil seal.

 

[Littledumptruck]

Thanks guys, so far. Lots of interesting info coming through.

Just checked, I've got 7mm bits in my bit set, long and short.
Need to check what pullers I've got, although a good mate has a press(and will have more choice of pullers too), although I have to wait for when he's up n about as he's a traffic occifer......

Just looking at getting some oil in, from memory it is EP90 GL5 isn't it? I know,,,,I could get my book out and check

I'm planning to do it 'on the bike' and only the main bearing. Although I'm not convinced about that. Do I ring Motorworks first thing and get the inner race added to the order??? Decisions decisions.........

One thing that strikes me with the advrider vid, is how mucky everything is, surely it's always best to give everything a good clean before opening it all up. It's how me dad taught me.....

 

[fatnfast]

Yes, give it a good clean. I wouldn't worry about the inner taper bearing, its not often they go.
GL5 is correct. Halfords stock it.
The bearing does not have enough clearance for you average puller to get it started. Use a pair of tyre levers or a pair of wedge shaped chisels to get it moving.
Buy a pound shop baking tray (It keeps the bearing spotless) to put the new bearing on and heat it in the oven. IIRC I heated mine for 15mins at 100 deg c. It should slide back on with no need to wack it. Let it cool down before fitting back to the case on the bike.
Don't forget to order a new large outer o-ring and don't forget to put the shims back.
Its a pretty easy job, good luck.

 

[Welshman]

If you are camping and someone has one of those gas lamps it works a treat

 

[Slipperyeel]

You don't need a puller, I used a pair of tyre levers and gently eased it up and off. A pair of screwdrivers would work just as well. Once it's moving it doesn't need much pressure to get it off, you just need to keep it as square as you can so it doesn't bind. If it does bind, just gently tap down the 'high' edge to get it level again. Regarding the heating/freezing, the new bearing can be wedged onto one of the front downpipes (as per Steptoe's guide) and warmed on there, while taking care not to overheat the engine. I did mine at home so I used the oven and freezer method. The new bearing literally dropped home with just the lightest of taps to ensure it was seated correctly. Some kind of hammer, or something that could be used as a hammer, would be useful but not essential, you don't want to be hitting the new bearing too hard,

Useful info. Thanks. And a couple of tyre levers are much lighter! Clearly a hammer would be more useful in the toolbox.

This is a job I hope I don't have to do by the road side, but very handy to be for warned (I already carry a spare bearing and seal - doing the job is where posts on the subject are great).

Out of interest, is it as straight forward on the 1200? Anyone know? I'm not thinking of getting one. Pure curiosity!




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[fizzer]

no its not mate ,the 1200 is a different ball game all together

 

[Slipperyeel]

Reading a few threads on this I can see it's such a well worn path for those who have been spannering the 1150 for many years. The likes of Steptoe must be fed up with us new to it going over the same story again and again!!! Either that or amazed it's still so relevant!




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[Slipperyeel]

no its not mate ,the 1200 is a different ball game all together

Is it also a roadside job or is that one of the 1150's benefits (ignoring the fact the bloody thing goes in the first place!)




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[fizzer]

well i think to put it simply,most would have a go and do the 1150 themselves ,the 1200 would probs be done by an expert like mikeyboy on this forum.
but dont let any of this put you off shaft drive ,have a look and see what a chain and sprocket set cost for a modern high power bike.
not a lot of difference really

 

[Steptoe]

You need an old sandwich toaster, available from boot sales for a couple of quid.

Heat bearing. And drop it onto the flange..

Then heat the cover plate.

When nice and hot place on blocks

Then drop the flange and bearing into the very hot cover and when they've cooled down fit them into the housing............... Do not place the flange in the housing and then bolt the cover in place because the bearing will be side loaded and won't last as long as it should