Final Drive Bearing

[beermonster]

Have just been quoted £135.00 inc parts (bearing and seal) to replace. Is that on the steep side?

Was wondering if you could attempt the job without bearing pullers?

Wpould be grateful for any advice, mine went at 61,000. usually do servicing myself but not had to attempt this particular job before.

My bike is a r1150gs 2001 model.

 

[Tsiklonaut]

Mine 1100 done now 37+K, no sign of bearing going (no metal pieces in FD oil and no freeplay). But already bough the main bearing as backup if going long distance travelling, costed 32£ here (the main big one) + seal 16£. Bought some various spacing shims too that costed ALOT i think - 4 different sizes on one side and 4 sizes to other side, and those 8 bloody fekin redicolous shims costed 20£! And now i read from other experiences shims were pointless buy, coz bearing is very precise piece one and no need for new spacing shims, you can use the old ones.

So if you have main bearing cracked only, then your list should be:
bearing - 32£
seal - 16£
TOTAL: circa 50£
On assumption the new bearing will fit 100% with old shims which she probably does.

Looks like they force you to buy the whole pack which you don't need (main big bearing + seal + shims for it + secondary small bearing + seal + shims for it + money for beer) It can't be that much, or they ask additional 75£ for work then? Hmm... I'll have to move to UK into BMW garage to earn some real money then

Anyways, good luck replacing it!

Cheers, Margus

 

[Steptoe]

I normally charge £90 parts and labour to do the job -

 

[FatAl]

I recently helped a friend replace his rear wheel bearing (GS1150)
We just used the original shim. We didn't have the equipment for making the checks. How important is it to re-shim? Do you think it will be ok to use the original one?

 

[Tsiklonaut]

I recently helped a friend replace his rear wheel bearing (GS1150)
We just used the original shim. We didn't have the equipment for making the checks. How important is it to re-shim? Do you think it will be ok to use the original one?

Not opened the box yet, but judging from the schematics you should be able to check the freeplay by feeler gauges if there is any. And theorethically the bearings are very precise, so fiting the new bearing should place itself perfectly with olds shims if they arent damaged or bent somehow. Shims seem to be mostly put on "first-time" in motorcycle factory to get the bearing in right spacing with individal bevel box design that may differ from each other(?)

Margus

 

[Nigel Cummins]

I had the final drive bearing replaced at about 63000km ('97 1100G/S). All was good until 3500km later there was more play in the rear wheel. We don't have a dealer in the South Island of NZ and the nearest service agent is 360km away so decided to tackle this myself with the help of an ace mechanic friend (thanks Martin). Dismantled and then reassembled using plasti-gauge to find gap between bearing and casing (already a .7mm shim in there). We had no specifications as per any preload but we did for the paralever rear ends fitted to R100G/S's. (refer to a Haynes Manual) So Martin hand-cut a shim from sheet stock to fit as BMW NZ had none in the country (from memory 180mm outside diameter/ 175mm inside). the thickness put the preload to the lower end of whats required for the R100. So now 6000km (5500km in one week) and 1 month later there is still no movement and the final drive is not boiling hot after 300km non stop.

 

[Les Wassall]

Just going to collect the parts for Chris G, bearing, o ring and cover £52

 

[beermonster]

Just had the final dive bearing done at Roy Gardener Motorcycles. The para lever bearings needed adjusting as well but seems to have solved the problem. Watched him do the job and was well satisfied with his patience, not to say peserverence as the housing did not want to come apart.

I would definitely recommend the place for any work on your bike for those around the Lancs area. Thanks for the replies.