Final drive pivots

Kenny Rodkiss

Well-known member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Jan 6, 2002
Messages
1,154
Reaction score
22
Location
Scottish borders
Had a little bit of play at the back wheel which turned out to be play at the final drive pivot bearings.
No problem though as they are adjustable taper bearings.
Oh oh.
When taking up the play you could feel the notchiness in the bearing,on further examination both sides were well s*agged with indentations on the outer race face.
Had the bearings replaced but my bike has only done 12k and is only two years old, not a good sign for long term ownership.
Anybody any idea why the premature demise of two of the smallest bearings that I have seen on what must be one of the most highly stressed parts of the bike?
 
Kenny, having pulled my own shaft drive system apart 3 times for spline lubrication, as well as seeing quite a few more of friends bikes apart for the same reason, I would agree, that yes, there could be a problem with those bearings and their cups.

One friend has had his pivot bearings replaced twice in 180,000 Klm's and there is a notchiness in nearly all of the higher travelled bikes, sometimes there is a notchiness and cupping in much lower travelled bikes, such as yours.

I think that there could be a design constraint on the size of bearing used because of the location and size of wall thickness of the actual alloy swinging arm shaft housing, that is a pure guess.

Another possibility is that the bearing has a use by date that is acceptable, by the engineering standards employed today. I think back to when BMW manufactured their mid fifties to late sixties bikes. These bikes were a no compromise, no price limit, build situation. They didn't sell that well, in fact in their last year of manufacture (1969) they manufactured about 300 more units than they sold.

Since the 1969 /5 series of bikes were released BMW has been shifting ever more to a realistic compromise of affordable but reasonably well engineered machines. In todays terms, the bikes are very well engineered, and, more importantly, affordable, even though I do concede that they are at the higher end of the market.

This comes at a cost which is usually understood by the customer, to be quality cutting. All people expect to replace tyres, batteries, spark plugs and like things. However to some people it can come as a shock to realise that the life of a clutch, fuel injector, seat, etcetera also have finite lives and that the design team would have factored this into the equation.

In other words, your swing arm pivot bearings, and mine as well, probably have a life expectancy wel short of the bike as a whole. Which means that I'll more than likely be replacing these bearings, about 2 times in the life of the bike.

I consider the life of the bikes to be about 300,000 kilometres. I have had 5 BMW bikes where I have done 300,000 Klm's or more. This doesn't mean that the bikes die at that point, it means for me that the machine is starting to get rather tired and main components are starting to fall apart from extreme wear.

My last bike (R100CS) did 305,000 Klm's and then I bought my current machine (1100GS) things were starting to get to a point where I was just fixing this, replacing that, and so on. The new owner of my old machine in the next 100,000 Klm's replaced or repaired, quite a few major items that I hadn't touched during the life of the bike.

Probably not quite the answer you or I envisaged, to the question.

Mick.
 
Never had a BMW before this one so cannot coment on build quality of previous models.
But that does not alter the fact that my mountain bike has beefier bearings than those fitted to the BMs swing arm.
When you cosider that they carry the full load of the bike and have to cope with etreme loads when the suspention compreses not to mention cornering forces at the same time.
I agee that they are a consumable part but not at 12k of road touring.
Now that I know they are on the weedy side I shall take care to grease them and check more often for any play so that they may be adjusted before doing themselves damage as has happened in my case.
 
For many people this hasn't been a problem so it would indicate that the odd bike isn't being correctly adjusted at the factory.

Apparently these bearings are very sensitive to over or under torquing and my guess is that if you have had to have them replaced then an inadequately experienced mechanic (there are plenty at BMW) could easily damage the replacement.
 
I replaced the bearings on my '01 a couple of weeks ago with 16.5K Miles on the clock after a hideous creaking sound developed, though there was no discernable play in the wheel.
Taking it all to bits the bearing face on the fixed (right hand) stud had indentations for each of the needle rollers. The race itself had fused to the stud - I ended up getting a new stud as I managed to damage the thread by the time I'd got the bearing off.
 
Swing arm bearing pre-mature failure

The problem that some of you are experiencing may well be caused by inept setting by someone or duff bearings. But there could well be another explaination and this is based on many years experience dealing with needle and taper-roller bearings.
Due to the bearings only moving in a restricted arc;i.e. the up and down arc of the rear swing arm, the lubricant; usually grease, gets moved or rather compacted away from the top and bottom of the bearing (individual rollers). This eventually results in metal to metal contact more and more, which finally results in the tracks being pitted by the rollers due to no lube present. (Put a dab of grease between finger and thumb and rub them back and forth a few times and you'll get the idea, this is whats happening to the roller bearings).
As I have not seen any of your bearings I am only passing an opinion, but this is a common problem with bearings where the lubricant becomes static (ceases to move), due to restricted arc.
Carrying a pillion would work the suspension more and cause the swing arm to move further through its arc, this may move the lube but on the other hand it may worsen the problem.
Be interesting to find out if any GS or other BMW owners living in hotter climates suffer the same problem. (I'm thinking that the lubricant is more likely to remain grease like rather than glue like)

If I might suggest that anyone servicing these bearings in the swing arm, consider using constant velocity joint grease (messy stuff) or waterpoof grease (boat yard/marina). Failing that try EP90 or EP 140 if you can get it (diff oil for cars) mixed together with a good quality grease, again messy but the stuff will keep moving when its inside the bearings and out of site.

Last suggestion, each week make sure the swing arm moves through its full available travel; this will move the bearings (obviously) further through their restricted arc than normal and so hopefully pick up some grease/lube.
I'm stopping now as its boring me now let alone you.
 
Hi Mechanic,

You wouldn't happen to run the Motorsport course at Derby University would you?
 
Bob Farmer

No I cannot claim fame for that, but I have been a bike dealer in the past and in the trade as a mechanic for longer than I care to remember. Just glad to be able to pass on tips to people that obviously want to know more. Currently lecturing in Automotive Engineering.
 
Just wondered! I was doing some work there last year and got talking with a chap who was running the Autosport course, on a part time basis, he used to run a bike shop in Derby.

The course looks brilliant he's got the lads rebuilding old LC's into racespec bikes and building FJ1200 powered dragsters and double FJ1200 engined chaterham 7's. Apparently they used to run Fireblade engines in the dragsters but the topend is too weak.

Just thought it may have been you because your backgrounds sound similar.
 


Back
Top Bottom