Final Drive Question

[KevinW]

We're taking the GSA to the US for a couple of months or so next month and, having recently finished watching Oisin's videos (which were excellent) with their multiple final drive issues, it's got me thinking again which is always a mistake.

For most of our trip, if it goes it goes and we'll just chill out somewhere while it's fixed, but there's a two week section when such a failure would be a bit of a disaster.

It's the 2011 model and will have around 24k miles on it by the time we start that part. I have a feeling they had pretty much cured the final drive issues by the 2011 model but I'm not sure if that was a fact or I made it up!

I'm wondering about having it rebuilt before we go as a preventative measure but I'm also wondering if I should stop flapping about it and just go. What do you think?

(If we could take the patronising, derision and "If you were concerned about this you should have bought something else/You'll not be spending 6 months up to your axles in thick mud so you don't need a GSA" type comments from the usual suspects as read that would be nice. )

Kevin

 

[Mav]

I don't think it's worth a rebuild at 24k - mines coming up on 75k miles and still on the original bearings.

I would simply have the FD oil change and forget it about it

 

[autogs]

buy a spare off ebay pack it up and leave in uk ready to fed ex it out to you,because you have a spare you will not use it.

 

[Beemerman59]

If there's no sideways play or roughness in the FD then I would change the oil and leave it as is.

 

[mikeyboy]

change the oil into a clean container,if it is black and smells burnt then the fd pinion bearing is on the way out,if it is clean then refill and stop worrying.if it has play in the wheel bearing or input pinion then a rebuild would be prudent before you leave.pm me if you have any specific questions.mike

 

[fatgser]

dont stress
you are more likley to be robbed and shot

 

[fatgser]

and thats mottorad usa

 

[STUBBS]

oil change and enjoy the trip

 

[Sgt Bilco]

dont stress
you are more likley to be robbed and shot

ZZzzzzzzz

If you are at all worried, have a rebuild as Mikeyboy suggests. It's not a kings ransom and will ease your concerns. Use uprated bearing like FAG whilst you are there.

I take groups of GS's out there and in 3 trips we've done a total of around 240,000 miles in total and never had a FD problem on a 1200. Had 1150 issues though

One thing to look for out is the outer seal which may occasionally leak and it comes out in a very fine mist. This really is nothing to worry about as the heat and altitude can do this and it will soon stop There are some excellent dealers out there who are far more helpful that here if you do get into trouble

 

[KevinW]

Thanks all. It seems I don't have much to be concerned about.

It will be booked in for a service a week or so after we get there and I was going to get the FD oil changed then but I'm now thinking I'll do it before we leave so I can see what it's like.

Now, where is that manual...

Kevin

 

[patzx12]

Just back from the NW200 on my 2010 gsa, i am fairly sure the FD is toast, i will check it tomorrow.
32000 km

 

[Mav]

Just back from the NW200 on my 2010 gsa, i am fairly sure the FD is toast, i will check it tomorrow.
32000 km

But you know how to rebuild them... Right?

 

[ebbo]

Just back from the NW200 on my 2010 gsa, i am fairly sure the FD is toast, i will check it tomorrow.
32000 km

Is this the same drive you rebuilt a while back Pat

Ive never got a handle on how long a drive would last from first picking up the rumbles to self destruction, anyone any ideas

 

[Bendy toy]

Patz has some experience with these things and was a major source of info.

Before I bought a GS I did some homework & found the pre 06 FD has a smaller pinion needle roller bearing that seems to either not see enough oil or isnt up to the job. Post 06 had a slightly bigger pinion bearing and the FD in general seems to be more reliable.

When the main wheel bearing fails most folks just fit a new one, but IMO the inner bearing should also be changed. After all its (at least) the same age as the one that's just failed. More cost of course, but...

 

[patzx12]

This is my 2010 bike FBMWSH and no problems bar the fuel strips that BMW sorted. I had a quick look and there is a bit of wheel rocking but probably in spec. I was getting a "worn chain" kind of rumbling on slow LH turns fully loaded 2 up.
It seems to be silent and smooth when i turn the wheel.
I will take a better look and drop the oil.
I can rebuild it easily myself.

 

[Clifton]

There are some areas where it'll be quite a ways to any dealer but I wouldn't worry about a mechanical issue. Put in fresh oil and new tires then have fun wearing them out! Speaking of tires I would carry a tire plug kit and compressor.

 

[Bendy toy]

OT on the tyre plugs subject -

I use Puncturesafe, because at motorway speeds a tyre can be toast by the time the bike can be stopped even if there is space to immediately pull over. The UK Police use it so it cant be bad.

It will seal nail holes. For damage enough to wreck the tyre it will slow down the rate of air loss usually avoiding a sudden blow-out. Its also compatible with aluminium. I had Slime (50% the cost of Puncturesafe) in another bike but when the tyre was changed the stuff had set in clumps on/in the alloy where tyre levers had scratched the paint. Thankfully nothing serious but put me off in-tyre sealers until I saw the Puncturesafe stuff.

 

[Sgt Bilco]

There are some areas where it'll be quite a ways to any dealer but I wouldn't worry about a mechanical issue. Put in fresh oil and new tires then have fun wearing them out! Speaking of tires I would carry a tire plug kit and compressor.

Great advice

 

[KevinW]

There are some areas where it'll be quite a ways to any dealer but I wouldn't worry about a mechanical issue. Put in fresh oil and new tires then have fun wearing them out! Speaking of tires I would carry a tire plug kit and compressor.

[Nods] Got all that although we're taking the AdventureDesigns compressor rather than the well-regarded CyclePump one purely because it's a lot smaller.

The tyres question isn't as settled as I'd have liked but it is what it is. I like Conti Trail Attacks but after one faulty one and a front and a rear in different pairs going off suddenly at around 7k I thought I'd try some others (cue some people saying they wear out tyres in 137.4 miles and others saying they get 3 million miles out of theirs ) .

I had a set of Dunlop Trailmax fitted and the intent was to run them until they needed replacing so I'd have a rough idea of how long they last. Unfortunately I've not been well so we've just finished a period of four months with no riding. I was panicked by reports of the Dunlops not lasting very long so had those taken off (they're in the garage for use later) and a set of Anakee 3s fitted last Thursday. A thousand miles later and there is less tread depth on the Anakees than there is on the Dunlops which have done a similar mileage.

I'm also carrying a fuel pump controller (which I know how to fit), an EWS antenna ring (which I have no idea how to fit yet; it may be dealer-fit only but at least I've got one so we won't have to wait for it) and an alternator belt (which I'm not certain I can fit although I suspect the proper tool rather than a bit of plastic will help with that). I'm not taking any braces.

I'm looking at the Puncture Safe web site Bendy toy...

Kevin

 

[autogs]

if you are taking a spare ews make sure you have a spare key as well.disconnect the ews plug from the old and plug in the new,gaffa tape your spare key to the new ews and your on your way in 5 mins.you can fart about undoing the fiddley screws when conveinient.