First Ride On My New GSA Today

Clifton

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It warmed up today so I took my 2014 GSA (which I bought last week) out for the first time. Some initial observations coming from a 2012 GSA, which was a very good motorcycle.

Starting it up the sound is different, almost a blend of 70% Camhead 1200, and 30% F800. I'm not sure I like it quite as well as the 2012 but it's not bad at all. After idling in neutral for 20 seconds I pull in the clutch, blip the throttle, then snick it into first which gives just the slightest wet clutch forward movement, and I'm off. Clutch engagement is fine and shifting up and down is faultless, just like my Honda 750 with new oil. Steering is noticeably easier and it feels much lighter and narrower than the 2012 GSA. It's much smoother than the 2012 (and my 2009 before that) at all rpm. At least up to 5-6,000 which is as fast as I spun it. I'll call it 33% smoother, quite noticeable. The extra power is apparent and it's lineal, no flat spots that I could feel. The ride seemed a little more compliant over the broken up pavement I was on. Windshield works fine but there was some noise, at least as much as on the 2012. I was riding w/o ear plugs today, with them it wouldn't be noticed. I had the seat in the high position and never thought about it at all, which is saying something. It's much better than the 2012 and it may be one of the few bikes I do not buy an aftermarket seat for. I'll need a longer ride than today's 75 miles to be sure though.
 
It warmed up today so I took my 2014 GSA (which I bought last week) out for the first time. Some initial observations coming from a 2012 GSA, which was a very good motorcycle.

Starting it up the sound is different, almost a blend of 70% Camhead 1200, and 30% F800. I'm not sure I like it quite as well as the 2012 but it's not bad at all. After idling in neutral for 20 seconds I pull in the clutch, blip the throttle, then snick it into first which gives just the slightest wet clutch forward movement, and I'm off. Clutch engagement is fine and shifting up and down is faultless, just like my Honda 750 with new oil. Steering is noticeably easier and it feels much lighter and narrower than the 2012 GSA. It's much smoother than the 2012 (and my 2009 before that) at all rpm. At least up to 5-6,000 which is as fast as I spun it. I'll call it 33% smoother, quite noticeable. The extra power is apparent and it's lineal, no flat spots that I could feel. The ride seemed a little more compliant over the broken up pavement I was on. Windshield works fine but there was some noise, at least as much as on the 2012. I was riding w/o ear plugs today, with them it wouldn't be noticed. I had the seat in the high position and never thought about it at all, which is saying something. It's much better than the 2012 and it may be one of the few bikes I do not buy an aftermarket seat for. I'll need a longer ride than today's 75 miles to be sure though.


Why would you do this?

Leave the throttle alone and it probably won't creep forward at all.
 
I find that I get no first gear clunk if I pull the clutch in while I'm reversing the bike off the drive, then select first when out on the road.
If I don't pull the clutch in, it clunks like a good 'un.
This suggests to me that the clutch plates are sticking together, reversing while pulling the lever makes the drive and driven plates turn in opposite directions so forces them apart.
 
I find that I get no first gear clunk if I pull the clutch in while I'm reversing the bike off the drive, then select first when out on the road.
If I don't pull the clutch in, it clunks like a good 'un.
This suggests to me that the clutch plates are sticking together, reversing while pulling the lever makes the drive and driven plates turn in opposite directions so forces them apart.

It probably breaks down the oil film between the separated plates, preventing drag between them.
 
Why would you do this?

Leave the throttle alone and it probably won't creep forward at all.


Because in neutral, even with the clutch pulled in, cold oil has enough friction that it still acts engaged, the transmission and engine are spinning in unison even though the clutch is separated. Clicking into first abruptly stops the transmission causing the lurch. With the clutch pulled completely in separating the plates a quick blip of the throttle can spin up the engine enough to break the plates loose from the oil film. Usually works on my Harleys and other bikes with wet clutches to eliminate or reduce the forward lurch. Still feeling out the idiosyncrasies on this bike and can't imagine it being different than other wet clutch bikes but next time after starting cold I'll try just pulling in the clutch and toeing down to first.
 
Because in neutral, even with the clutch pulled in, cold oil has enough friction that it still acts engaged, the transmission and engine are spinning in unison even though the clutch is separated. Clicking into first abruptly stops the transmission causing the lurch. With the clutch pulled completely in separating the plates a quick blip of the throttle can spin up the engine enough to break the plates loose from the oil film. Usually works on my Harleys and other bikes with wet clutches to eliminate or reduce the forward lurch. Still feeling out the idiosyncrasies on this bike and can't imagine it being different than other wet clutch bikes but next time after starting cold I'll try just pulling in the clutch and toeing down to first.

I don't know if I've been blinded of my memory of all previous bikes (wet clutch apart from the Guzzi's) owned over the years since having my 1200GS , but I have never felt the need to blip the throttle for engaging first gear, for either a hot or cold start. I've come across some people who 'blip' for up changes too, whilst actually riding!

Most of my bikes have had an initial 'clunk' when selecting 1st from cold , the gearbox can take it , though some bikes really do seem to receive the engagement quite harshly. Whenever I read of this clunk into 1st gear the more I realise how good my 1200 GS TC is. It truly does select , from cold , 1st gear with absolutely no clunk, no fuss . no sucking air between gritted teeth , whatsoever. I really wouldn't want to go what to me would be a backwards step after the TC model.

This WC ownership sounds like a whole new riding experience.
 
I've come across some people who 'blip' for up changes too, whilst actually riding!..

LOL oh yeah! And even just sitting at a light.

The thing is after the quick blip to (hopefully) break free the plates, it's right back to idle speed again before I select first. So the worst thing that could happen is they don't break loose at all and it's going in to first from idle anyway.


...Whenever I read of this clunk into 1st gear the more I realise how good my 1200 GS TC is. It truly does select , from cold , 1st gear with absolutely no clunk, no fuss . no sucking air between gritted teeth , whatsoever. I really wouldn't want to go what to me would be a backwards step after the TC model.

This WC ownership sounds like a whole new riding experience.


You're right the TC dry clutch works perfectly with no drag whatsoever.
To be honest I was concerned after reading numerous posts here about Wetheads and how horrible the transmission and clutch could be. But having an Airhead and Harley I was convinced I would be able to suffer through. The ride yesterday put my concerns to rest, at least on this bike even though it's new, the transmission and clutch work wonderfully.
 
.... reversing while pulling the lever makes the drive and driven plates turn in opposite directions so forces them apart.
You haven't thought that one through have you :D

.... With the clutch pulled completely in separating the plates a quick blip of the throttle can spin up the engine enough to break the plates loose from the oil film....
Yup, I can see the logic in that one :thumb2
 


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