Fitting a new clutch to an 1150

Droopy Dick

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I have to finally accept that my clutch is probably at the point of death.

I can't wind on full power in 6th gear. The engine revs rise, but speed doesn't.

Setting off from traffic lights is a case of letting go of the clutch lever, and eventually getting the clutch bite fully after a couple of seconds.

There seems to be bugger all movement between clutch in or out.

Oh, and I'm starting to smell clutch burn.

I had the slave cylinder changed a few weeks ago, 'cos my repair monkey thought it unlikely that a clutch would give up the ghost at 28k miles. Didn't change a thing.

So, how much is a new clutch for an 1150?

Is it just a friction plate to change, or do I have to worry about pressure plates and thrust bearings?

What is all this gonna cost me?
 
*sucks air through teeth and thrusts hands into pockets* OOOOh that's gonna cost you Guv'nor!

The parts are cheap...the labour is enormous 'cos the whole back end's gotta come off :(

£800???

Paging Steptoe............
 
I don't know how cheap is cheap for parts.

My repair monkey will do it for £25 an hour, which is oodles less than SPC will charge. So, if it's 8 hours, it'd only be £200.

But I'm kinda dreading phoning SPC parts to be told that a clutch assembly is £500 ......
 
Hi Droopy

It's an easy, if time consuming, DIY job. I did it solo no probs other than needing an engine crane to replace the transmission. I got a second hand clutch from James Sherlock for £50; it had only done three miles before the donor bike was totalled.

Joe The Celt did his around the same time (three years ago) and his new new clutch was £173.

Good luck with it whichever way you go.

Regards, Mick :thumb
 
Don't fit second hand parts -

Replace the whole clutch unit - sherlocks is the best price, about £120ish for the whole clutch kit. That includes everything you'll need .

:thumb
 
Steptoe said:
Don't fit second hand parts.
Is that why you sell 'em? :D

While we're at it, where's that pre-owned engine oil you promised me? :nenau

Regards, Mick :beerjug:

p.s. 30k on "new" clutch so far. I'll let you know when it gives up the ghost, but don't hold your breath. :nono
 
BMW will tell you that 28k is about right :eek:

I've had to replace one a couple of times and as others have said, it's not that difficult a job to do yourself - just bloody time consuming as you pretty much have to split the bike in half.

Took me 4 hours first time and all I had was a Haynes manual and misguided optimism. Second time took 2 and half hours.

Luckily, although all the rear of the bike needs to be removed it'll still stand up on it's own as the main stand is bolted to the engine.

Give it try, save some bucks and get to know your bike's nether regions that bit more personally!
 
type_259 said:
BMW will tell you that 28k is about right ...

BMW would tell you anything to save a warranty claim!

Clutch life really depends on how you use the bike.

28k motorway miles shouldn't really impose any significant wear on a clutch, but 28k London commuting miles would surprise me on a single plate.

Clutch life is also about riding style. On pull-away, I tend to feed the clutch in at very low revs; let the clutch fully engage and then use the engine to accelerate. Others will use 3-4,000 revs and slip the clutch until road speed and revs coincide. The latter style can be pretty hard on a clutch, particularly is more power is wound on before the clutch fully bites.

Sitting at traffic lights with the bike in gear will also add a fair bit of wear.

Finally, a hot clutch plate will wear more quickly than a colder plate (as you get burning as well as physical wear), so the latter style used in commuting when the clutch hardly has chance to cool can exacerbate the problem.

Greg
 
Mick O'Malley said:
Is that why you sell 'em? :D

. :nono


Second hand Parts - not second hand service items.

If you want to save a few quid, when the major cost is the labour or work involved, and without any warranty on the part, then your tighter than you sound. I'll fit a second hand part if somebody wants me to, but i make it very clear, if they come back crying, tough.
You've been lucky, and you have only your one clutch experiance to re-tell.

i've seen too many a tear :D

I've got some used brake pads here, i'll save them for you :thumb
 
type_259 said:
Give it try, save some bucks and get to know your bike's nether regions that bit more personally!

To be honest. I'd like to.

However, a less than optimal lumbar spine means that I can't r4eally do very much that involves bending, leaning or twisting.

And past experience tells me that working on a bike without a lift would involve all three.

I'll phone my repair monkey and find out if he can do it in 2.5 hrs!!!!!!!! :D :D :D :D

Oh, and Shylock's price for a clutch 'kit' is £150!!
 
I've seen the ceramic clutch plate in the Touratech cataloge. Is it worth fitting considering the £350.00 cost of the part?

They claim you'll never have to do it again. How true is that? and what about the other parts needed?

My 1200 gets used for instructing, which involves heavy cluch use when following chicken chasers at walking pace.

I'm just wondering if its worth considering. More along the lines of never having to do the job again rather than every year or so.

Has anyone tried the ceramic clutch?

Val.
 
Steptoe said:
I've got some used brake pads here, I'll save them for you :thumb
Cool! But only if they've been boiled in Daz for a couple of hours to get rid of the brake fluid.

Regards, Mick
 
VAL. H. said:
They claim you'll never have to do it again. How true is that? .

it's not true. you have to take it out and shim it after a certain mileage i believe.
 
cookie said:
it's not true. you have to take it out and shim it after a certain mileage i believe.

Twice, no less. And the center splines can still wear out :eek:

Also, don't buy one off e-bay . There are counterfeit plates out there
 


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