Fitting Wilbers.

[motobiker]

I have a full set arriving in another week or so.

question is about the mounting bolts/parts. Is it a straight swap or is it advisable to order new OE bolts from BMW - is there an alternative - say 'stainless steel'

And if ordering new parts - should I order 'all the mounting parts' as shown in the microfiche here - rear - http://www.xmission.com/~wendell/R1100GS/rearaxle.html bottom of the pages. and front - http://www.xmission.com/~wendell/R1100GS/frontaxle.html

thanks.

 

[Thunder]

Never personally found it necessary to order new mounting bolts when changing shocks.

Do make sure you have thread locker and apply it where necessary.

 

[essjay]

Never heard of anyone getting new mounting bolts etc, but I've never done it myself.

On the topic - is it a relatively easy install? Or would i be better to get a dealer to do it for me? Need to take off back wheel, front forks, tank etc?

 

[ianboydsnr]

Never heard of anyone getting new mounting bolts etc, but I've never done it myself.

On the topic - is it a relatively easy install? Or would i be better to get a dealer to do it for me? Need to take off back wheel, front forks, tank etc?

exhaust, wheel, seat mounts, tank, thats all I can remember doing

 

[motobiker]

Never personally found it necessary to order new mounting bolts when changing shocks.

Do make sure you have thread locker and apply it where necessary.

thanks... seems odd that the microfiche doesn't mention the loctite thread lock. my main reason for asking was due to the part thats described as a Self-locking hex nut M10x1,25

I wondered if that was a 'single use' part - which should be replaced with 'new'

 

[essjay]

exhaust, wheel, seat mounts, tank, thats all I can remember doing

Is there a step by step guide lurking about anywhere?

 

[Thunder]

Not seen a guide specific to the 1150 but worth a quick google.

If you have not fitted shocks before can I recommend you make sure you have the correct tools paticularly torx sockets and a torque wrench.

Fiddliest bit I would say is torqueing the front shock at the top mount.

 

[trotsky]

exhaust, wheel, seat mounts, tank, thats all I can remember doing

And cat/y-piece to get at the bottom of the rear shock.

There was a "What do I need to know before I fit my Wilbers shocks" thread or two a couple of months ago. *searches - finds them*

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140492

and

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135241

Hope they are of some use. It is simple-ish.

 

[essjay]

one thing I don't have are torx sockets. Have normal hex sockets alright. Have a cheapo torque wrench I got off eBay a while ago.

I'm thinking the dealer might be the best place to get this done

 

[Packer]

Hello Essjay, you'll be glad to know that on the 1150GS (at least my one which is a 2003 model with catalyst still fitted) you don't need any Torx drivers, you don't need to remove the catalyst, you probably don't need to remove the silencer (I'm not sure as mine is fitted with a stubby pipe).

Nylok or self locking nuts should really be a one time use but a bit of threadlock will do the job just as well. I reduce the torque setting by 25% if using threadlock where it's not specified as it acts as a lubricant whilst still liquid. Plenty about this on Advrider.com.

You will need a selection of good quality Allen drivers and metric spanners. The Allen driver for the lower rear mount will need to be the socket variety to fit on your torque wrench.

I didn't worry about getting the torque setting correct on the front top mount, it's only compressing a rubber bush so I reckon that five milli-seconds after you've torqued it it will have all changed anyway. When you first undo it turn it one full turn and then just get the feel of it by doing it up again.

The most difficult bit is the lower mount for the rear shock. I suggest liberally coating it with penetrating fluid for a few days before you start the job.

When you replace that bottom bolt coat it with aluminium slip (like copper slip but ali) above the thread section so that it comes out easily next time.

You will need a block of wood or an axle stand to support the final drive after the old shock is removed.

You will find that the standard bracket supplied to mount the remote pre-load adjuster leaves the unit sticking out a long way. If you ride with the balls of your feet on the pegs it vibrates against your heel. My original one actually broke and I've just received a replacement for it. I took it to the local engineering shop and had them heat it up and straighten the 90 degree bend by about 20 degrees. It now sits out of the way.

Good luck and have fun!

 

[Bigbadbaz]

Not so easy?!

Hi

I just received my wilbers shocks for my 1150 GSA 04 plate and tried fitting the shock. The standard shock came out nice and easy which suprised me but then came installing the new one!
The destructions said you would need to wiggle and wobble it about a bit to get it to fit which seems ok but......
The lower mounting of the rear shock seems to be slightly wider than the width of the gap in the swing arm by 1-2mm aaprox. The nearside of the swing arm gap has what I will describe as a bush which seems to sit slightly proud in the gap. Does this bush move? Does it need to be removed (no mention of this in destructions)? Should this bush be flat against the inside of the swingarm? Before I resort to large hammer can anyone give me some advice please! Any pictures of your set up units would be good!

Cheers Baz