Fork seal fitting

same principle?

Excellent write-up, thanks.

Can you confirm whether the principle is the same for a 1200 GSA? or are there fundamental differences which I need to be aware of before tackling this job?

Thanks again

GG33
 
Steptoe thanks for this beautiful tutorial - did my seal just now.

Have had some trouble with heavily corroded nut - you said you put some grease on it? And under the dust cover aswell. WHat kind of grease?
The problem with my 1100 is that the seals underneath the nut are all damaged and water probably comes in from underneath. The proper solution would be only to replace the whole upper-fork part as the seals are built in.

The seal itself was quite stubborn as well and I really had to use force to fit the new seal. :eek: I was quite surprised as I think I might have damaged the seal using so much force :( -- but it just wouldn't go in nicely.
AND as stupid as I was I used some wooden "tools" to force the seal in, which left some tiny dusty leftovers into the fluid. That can not be good - but should I replace the fluid anyways? Is it complicated?

I hope I've even done anything today. :blast

BUt thanks again for the helpful tutorial!!
 
Replaced one leaking seal today, thanks for the instructions Steptoe was most helpful.

Did not have the special tool for the fork seal, but i heated the fork and then used a screwdriver.Anyone knew where to to buy the special tool with international shipping?
 
Took me longer than anticipated!!!

I replaced both of my seals today, as one of them was leaking slightly, and it's due MOT in a month or so.

Couldn't get the old seals out with the fork bottoms in situ, I do not have a seal puller, so I was using a screwdiver!

Ended up completely stripping the offside fork down and using a vice, then had to do the nearside in situ due to a seized ABS sensor. It was easier with one fork completely off, there was more movement on the single remaining fork leg, which allowed me to lever the old seal out, eventually.

I did not have a socket of the right diameter to push the new seal in squarely, so I used the old seal, and tapped it into place with a rubber mallet-worked a treat.

Took me longer than I thought, but it's done now. Thanks for the guide, which inspired me to give it a go!!

Paul.
 
Must be fork seal week I've just done mine in 20 mins!! But I did buy a seal puller off eBay for a tenner made it very easy thanks Neil
 
What parts do you need before you strip the forks down?

One of the rubber covers on the wiper has detoriated so I was going to do this job next summer as I thought the bike would be off the road for sometime.

Having read this article it looks like it could be a lot easier job than I first thought so I am going to do it in the next couple of weeks when i have time and daylight.

I guess I will need two wipers, two retaining rings, two shaft seals and two washers.

Any help would be appreciated as I would like to get the bits first then strip the forks down.
 
As one of the previous posters had said- 45 seconds with a heat gun to the top of the fork shanks and the rusty old seals pop out with your finger - no screwdriver or special seal puller required.:rob I also removed the handle bars so I could get my socket square (without extension) so it wouldnt graunch the head off the nut as the socket doesn't sit all the way down as the nut has a seat collar.

One of mine failed completely as the spring had corroded and swelled. The other was not far behind once you took the dust cover off. I wouldn't bother buggering about with re-using the old caps if they are still original, two caps & two seals are about £35 from motorworks.

10 mins a side. Great post Neil and easy to follow.:beer:
 
Did mine on the 1100 today. I bought a seal lever and spent a while trying to find how I could get the lever onto the seal and still have enough room to lever it. I couldn`t! I then noticed that in Neils pic he has ground down the prong. I did the same to mine and a minute later I had the seal out.:thumb2
 
Thanks for the helpful pics Neil, just replaced one fork seal - 25 min job-! :thumb
 
Great info, cheers Steptoe :bow. At the moment I'm stuck in Poso, Sulawesi with blown fork seals and a busted shock. Been on the search to get a seal puller but to no avail.

Looking at the pic I think it may be easy to get one made, the question is what size is the puller? I don't want it to be to big/small so it will damage the tubes, that's if it matters.

If anyone has one, could you trace and put measurements up so I can attempt to get one made. Hopefully soonest as I need to hit the road soon and don't way to bodge it with a screwdriver.:augie

Many Thanks,

John
 
John RTW said:
Great info, cheers Steptoe :bow. At the moment I'm stuck in Poso, Sulawesi with blown fork seals and a busted shock. Been on the search to get a seal puller but to no avail.

Looking at the pic I think it may be easy to get one made, the question is what size is the puller? I don't want it to be to big/small so it will damage the tubes, that's if it matters.

If anyone has one, could you trace and put measurements up so I can attempt to get one made. Hopefully soonest as I need to hit the road soon and don't way to bodge it with a screwdriver.:augie

Many Thanks,

John
Click to expand...

Screw drivers are fine to use aslong as you don't score the inside of the tube. :thumb
 
Thanks Ian, just wanted to play it safe, as the luck I'm having at the moment would mean that I am well and truly going to bodge it, will see how it goes once my shock arrives. Is the tube heating recommended or just go straight in with a flathead?
 
I've done the job twice and not had to heat the tubes, and must admit that after the job was done I wondered what all the fuss was about. I don't know why you would need heat? It's a rubber seal in a metal tube. The main tip I would give is make sure you use a hex socket on the top yoke, the multi-start sockets just round off the nut.
:thumb
 
John RTW said:
Looking at the pic I think it may be easy to get one made, the question is what size is the puller? I don't want it to be to big/small so it will damage the tubes, that's if it matters.

If anyone has one, could you trace and put measurements up so I can attempt to get one made. Hopefully soonest as I need to hit the road soon and don't way to bodge it with a screwdriver.:augie

Many Thanks,

John
Click to expand...

If you see post No 31, I bought a seal puller the same as Steptoes and had to grind the end down to match the profile on Steptoes. I had printed off the thread on A4 paper before I started and spookily the photo of the puller came out exactly full size which made it easy to match. I guess if you did the same you could just copy the outline and get one made up if they are not readily available where you are.
 
Thanks again Ian and Mark, I've just read a few threads with the term use heat and that it was a bastard to get out. Will try and do the printer scale method and see what happens.:)
 
Piece of cake, ease out evenly with flathead screwdriver. Hex socket (6point) for safety. Tiny allen key for the vent screw. Make sure put seals in rightwayup, not upsidedown, damhik....
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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