Frame difference between GS and R

[pete.keys]

Hi,

I have an R80g/s. I have just uploaded pics in the registary.

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76310

I am planning the usual USD forks, frame strengthen, extended monolever etc.

I have been thinking though: why butcher a perfectly good and reasonably valuable g/s, throwing all the standard parts away. Wouldnt it be more cost effective to get a later r100r which can be relatively cheap and use this as the basis for the work?

So how different is are the frames of the GS & R - so how viable is the idea?

I use the g/s to daily commute - so it would also get me over the issue of how I get to work whilst I'm getting the work done!

 

[(RIP) pastyman]

I am in agreement with your sentiments on this. so many g/s's are "specialised" Ok if you are doing serious off roading but if not a nice originaal is still a nice little bike and great fun. One or two on here have made special gs's using cheap bits and ended up with very interesting and useable bikes. This is the way to go. As far as the frames are concerned I cant be definate but as far as I know they are not that much different. Sure someone will be along to give you proper advice tho

 

[nick.ct]

The R80g/s frame, and subframe are to be found in a R80ST and a R65g/s. By far the most common use is in the R80g/s, the rarest in the R65g/s

Nick

 

[VAL. H.]

IIRC the R100R frame is the same as the R100/80GS 1988-94 frames.

You're quite right in that the R100R's are cheaper than the GS's. But they are also quite rare. It would be a great shame to buy a complete R100R and convert it into a GSalike bike. This has been done too many times IMO with the older ST's, which is I think a very bad thing when it comes to preserving the mark. However if you find a frame from a previously broken bike, then fill yer boots with a clear conscience.

Having said that it's probably easier to find a GS frame than it is an R. Cheaper than spending out on a complete bike and being left with loads of surplus bits. Remember too that the swing arm from the g/s might not fit the GS frame without some modifications IE the rear brake and swing arm pivot.


HTH Val.

 

[Beemerboff]

Try and get a ride of one of the upside down forked around bikes before you spend a lot of heard earned.

I have ridden a few and they have all been much worse than a well sorted original - just a pile of random bits tricked up for a photo shoot, some almost impossible to ride.

Some people . like HPN and Moorespeed , have the ability to do it properly, and you will be able to get you some idea of the cost of doing it properly from the HPN site. Huge bucks.

But why ruin a ok little bike - a Ohlins on the back , matching fork springs, decent tubular fork brace, synth fork oil, and a little bit skill and know how will do a better job then five times as much spent on random hacking around.

 

[pete.keys]

Hi - some good advice here - thanks.

Val.H.: Thanks for the advice. I have my eyes on a R100R whch is pretty scruffy and needs everything doing to it from the ground up and has lots of missing body parts - so seams like a pretty good donor if the frame is the same.

Beermerbof: I suppose my issue is that I find the g/s forks abit harsh on bad roads. Everything checks out ok - but I haven't ridden another "sorted" GS to get a comparison. So I agree - if I could get the existing forks to work properly I probably wouldn't change them.

 

[Beemerboff]

You will get used to it - compared to the forks on my GS which have HPN inserts they felt horrible at first. But not so much after a year or so.

Taking a bit preload of the shock spring helped a bit, as did decent synthetic suspension fluid - the best I can find in Oz is Belray HVI 5, it is a step up in class from a dino and makes a noticeable difference. It probably compares at 7 1/2 wt but you cant really compare fork oils on one figure.

I replaced the flat brace with a tubular one - the difference in flexing is visible so fork action and handling improved too.Flatracer from memory

But a Distanza doesn't have much clearance below it so I dont know how something more off road would go.

And even tires help - the Avons just seem to improve every aspect of the handling and suspension.

 

[VAL. H.]

Hi - some good advice here - thanks.

Val.H.: Thanks for the advice. I have my eyes on a R100R whch is pretty scruffy and needs everything doing to it from the ground up and has lots of missing body parts - so seams like a pretty good donor if the frame is the same.

Still a shame to break a fairly rare bike that is potentially restorable. Have you called Motorworks or Motobins to find out what they would charge for a frame? Might be cheaper and will definitely be easier all round. BTW what's he asking for the 100R?

Beermerbof: I suppose my issue is that I find the g/s forks abit harsh on bad roads. Everything checks out ok - but I haven't ridden another "sorted" GS to get a comparison. So I agree - if I could get the existing forks to work properly I probably wouldn't change them.

It's not uncommon for the feedback felt through the front to be caused in part by the rear. Something worth looking at is fitting a beefed up fork top yoke 'maybe even a custom made top and bottom yoke. this will hole the forks much more firmly. A decent fork brace will make a big difference too.

Am I right in thinking you have recently bought a new rear shock? Did you get one that is cusomisable/adjustable to your weight? It would also be worth spending a few quid with a suspension technician and getting it set up correctly. He could also advise you on the forks.


Just some thoughts. Val.

 

[Flipfly]

For off roading, you are better off with ya KTM etc's.

For Touring and Off roading, you can't really do much better than a Dakar (Like the one I have for sale ).

Took Bertha for a little off roading this evening with Liz on the back. They are more than capable of doing alot more than many give them credit for.

There are some great looking airhead specials, but as said earlier, very few are actually much better than the original for hard off roading.

 

[Kenny]

I'd get hold of the r100r and have a play with that...bloody boring things anyway It is a good way of starting from stratch for a one off special.
Only lumps of metal to play around with at the end of the day
But, when you eventually come to sell it, you'll find it hard to move on as most want a genuine GS !!

 

[slowkitty]

What about the paralever angle?

The G/S has a great advantage in having the trouble-free monolever; although the great advantage of the R is the tubeless rims. However, some users claim that the R100R's shorter wheelbase and lower height (with shorter rear shock) makes the paralever drive more durable on it than the R100GS's.

Cheers

 

[(RIP) Arkwright]

I replaced the flat brace with a tubular one - the difference in flexing is visible so fork action and handling improved too.Flatracer from memory

But a Distanza doesn't have much clearance below it so I dont know how something more off road would go.

And even tires help - the Avons just seem to improve every aspect of the handling and suspension.

TKC80's and Avon Distanzia's both fit fine with Flatracers 'San Jose' tubular fork brace...................a major improvement!

cheers,

 

[pete.keys]

I looked at flatracers web site and also noticed they had a tarozzi fork stabilizer. The tubular one would look a bit funny with the high mudguard. Any experience of the Tarozzi?

 

[(RIP) Arkwright]

Pete, if you look at my bike on the monolever register you'll see what the flatracer brace looks like with the high mudguard, I've removed the mounting lugs for the low mudguard which helps I think!

cheers,

 

[VAL. H.]

What about the paralever angle?

The G/S has a great advantage in having the trouble-free monolever; although the great advantage of the R is the tubeless rims. However, some users claim that the R100R's shorter wheelbase and lower height (with shorter rear shock) makes the paralever drive more durable on it than the R100GS's.

Cheers

That's right. The Paralever is held much straighter on the R's than the GS's. So less of an angle for the U/J to be working through.


Val.