Freakin' Datatool alarm problem

[Green Boy]

Hi,

My 1150 GSA came with a freakin' datatool system 3 alarm fitted which is beginning to grind my stones. I am trying to follow the reprogramming instructions but can't find the inline fuse or the protective trigger switch.

I've come to the conclusion that it must have been fitted to the bike as a factiry option when new and therefore hardwired into the fusebox. However as I have no paperwork for it (it's 3rd hand) I've got no idea which one it is.

Also I can't find the protective trigger switch which is supposed to be under the seat/ fuel tank or battery etc. Having spend an hour going over it this morning (thought it would be one of those 10 mins jobs) I'm about to loose the plot

Does anyone have the misfortune of having one of these fitted as a factory standard and can point me in the right direction as to where to find these 2 items?

and breathe.....

Thanks.

 

[ianf]

Not factory, but likely dealer or security co. fitted. The security switch may well not be fitted, from memory my one had a 3 wire loom left under the seat, white, yellow, brown.

One of these silences the arming beeps, and one of the others is for the tamper switch on bikes where the alarm is under the seat.

On the 1150 mine was under the tank so tamper not fitted, and the fuse up by the headstock.

Have a good look around the headstock for a wire with a square rubber blob on it, the top pulls off to reveal the fuse.

 

[ducatiparts.110mb]

You are right, they are a bloody nuisance.

I used to have the wiring diagrams as pdfs but can't find them now.

Not sure what you know about them, so forgive me if I'f teaching you to suck eggs.....

They break into two or three circuits and switch these on and off depending on whether the bike thinks its being started properly or hotwired.

Typically they cut the low power side of the starter relay, the fuel pump relay and sometimes the ecu power.

If you just cut alarm out your bike will never start again - you need to find where the alarm connects to the bike's loom and remake the connections that are taken back intohe alarm and switched by it.

If you follow the wires out of the alarm you'll probably find two that are power and ground. You can safely disconnect these. Then follow the alarm loom out to where it joins the bikes loom. You may get lucky and find that the alarm unplugs in two places that are physically very close and uses male and female versions of the same connector. In that case connect the two left over connectors of the bikes loom together. If the alarm is soldered into the bikes loom then you need to cut out the alarm and solder the bikes loom back together where it was previously cut to insert the alarm.

When disconnecting the alarm you must either do all of it, or none of it. Partial disconnection is not really an option. So that you don't get part way and find a horrible bodge that stops you going any further I'd make sure you can see all connections and cut off any old insulating tape before disconnecting any of them, so that if you do need to hold off for a bit at least you'll not have the alarm half removed.

Hope this helps. If you get stuck take a picture and post it and then PM me. Mark

 

[Green Boy]

Not factory, but likely dealer or security co. fitted. The security switch may well not be fitted, from memory my one had a 3 wire loom left under the seat, white, yellow, brown.

One of these silences the arming beeps, and one of the others is for the tamper switch on bikes where the alarm is under the seat.

On the 1150 mine was under the tank so tamper not fitted, and the fuse up by the headstock.

Have a good look around the headstock for a wire with a square rubber blob on it, the top pulls off to reveal the fuse.

Hi IanF: Thanks for this. This sounds exactly the same set up as mine with a mass of loose (black with various colour tag) wires and the alarm under the tank. I've already found the one (white I think) that silences the alarm beeps when it's activated/ deactivated.

So when the instruction from Datatool say connect the protection trigger switch to the positive side of the battery, would you have any idea which one that is. Appreciate that this is a long shot but will be calling datatool tomorrow but just wondered if you could remember.

Thanks.

 

[Green Boy]

You are right, they are a bloody nuisance.

I used to have the wiring diagrams as pdfs but can't find them now.

Not sure what you know about them, so forgive me if I'f teaching you to suck eggs.....

They break into two or three circuits and switch these on and off depending on whether the bike thinks its being started properly or hotwired.

Typically they cut the low power side of the starter relay, the fuel pump relay and sometimes the ecu power.

If you just cut alarm out your bike will never start again - you need to find where the alarm connects to the bike's loom and remake the connections that are taken back intohe alarm and switched by it.

If you follow the wires out of the alarm you'll probably find two that are power and ground. You can safely disconnect these. Then follow the alarm loom out to where it joins the bikes loom. You may get lucky and find that the alarm unplugs in two places that are physically very close and uses male and female versions of the same connector. In that case connect the two left over connectors of the bikes loom together. If the alarm is soldered into the bikes loom then you need to cut out the alarm and solder the bikes loom back together where it was previously cut to insert the alarm.

When disconnecting the alarm you must either do all of it, or none of it. Partial disconnection is not really an option. So that you don't get part way and find a horrible bodge that stops you going any further I'd make sure you can see all connections and cut off any old insulating tape before disconnecting any of them, so that if you do need to hold off for a bit at least you'll not have the alarm half removed.

Hope this helps. If you get stuck take a picture and post it and then PM me. Mark

Thanks for this explanation as I didn't really understand how they worked. I'm going to call Datatool tomorrow to see what they suggest ref wire colours but it sounds as if mine is a bit of a 'custom' (experimental) fit!

If I get stuck I'll take a picture and take you up on that PM offer.

Cheers.

 

[richie]

removed mine this year.. Follow the wires back from the unit. most of them are spliced. Therefore removable.

I had three left.

One live
One live when starter button hit
One dead...

Now here is the tricky bit... As I can't remember the solution but basically the dead one has to be soldered to one of the others. Probably the starter one. The last one needs to be taped off and left....

I certainly am not telling you to follow these instructions, but a bit of research on the net and you could have the bike going yourself, today...

 

[ianf]

The three option wires were separated from the rest and coiled up on top of the air filter, I seem to remember that yellow is the anti-tamper one but you should verify/test it.

It looks like it should connect to +ve and the switch (was still in my shed, is com, no, nc (working from the hinge). Obviously reversed if you have it held down when the seat is on.

it's connected to 12v to program remotes...http://www.datatool.co.uk/pdfs/system3_ci.pdf so it should have a high impedance to allow you to verify it.

Ian

 

[Green Boy]

For anyone that finds themselves in a similar situation and has one of these alarms and no installation instructions or trigger switch, Datatool confirmed that the reprogramming can be done by taking off the alarm cover, bridging pins 4 and 5 and then connecting this to the + terminal of the battery.

Now all I need to do is find the alarm fuse which I think has been piggy backed off of an existing fuse in the fuse box. As I have no other reference, can anyone who doesn't have an alarm fitted, post a picture of the inside of the fuse box on their 1150 gsa so I can see if mine has one extra fuse.

Kind of hoping it's going to be that easy ....

If it's not that easy I'll find a pair of ear defenders, set the alarm, shut the garage door and start pulling out fuses until the I can make the instructions work.

 

[Mick_rw]

I have....

had 2 1150GS with the Datatool System 3 fitted. On both the fuse was tapped into the system by the Diagnostics plug and neither had a trigger switch.

On the second GS it was a pain in the ass and it took me 30 minutes to remove completely...no problem......

 

[DollyRocket]

I ripped the alarm out about 6 months ago (same datatool 3). Was installed by SPC when I bought the bike new in 2003.

The alarm was under the ABS modulator (Servo) on mine so really hidden away. I had problems with my fobs in that they couldnt dis-arm the system as they forgot the programming. It appeared that the circuit board was fried internally and would never work so I pulled it apart.

Took about an hour to take out and make good. You can trace the black wires to the head stock to see the pair that the alarm is spliced into. On mine, it was the starter switch and the interlock circuit.