Front engine mount needed

[Kenny]

Bit on an odd one this. I have a pair of 'crash' bars for my R100RS. They came with the bike and were not fitted. Now when I try to fit them, the from engine mounting bolt is not long enough ( as someone has cut the s/s replacement engine mount to just allow the 19mm nuts etc.
I see on a kit that a longer engine mount is supplied but I'm sure the standard one is long enough...anyone throw any knowledge on this ( then of course I'll need to source and engine mounting bar ).

 

[Rob Farmer]

All available new and as cheap as chips (just like the op)

 

[Kenny]

Moto Bins can supply a standard one but the one that comes with the kit isn't as easy to get hold of. If you have one from all your blagged spares could you measure the length then I can compare with mine and see if the standard jobbie is long enough to affix the bars to.

 

[Rob Farmer]

I'm in brum today. I'll measure the ones I have when I get home. I'm sure there's three sizes

Have you tried looking at realoem?

 

[Kenny]

All sorted now folks; bought a 13.5 inch s/s jobbie from Shaw engineering which I'll fit in a month or so as I've no ramp etc

 

[John Roberts]

Kenny, perhaps there's something I don't understand here, but do you really need a ramp to change the mounting bolt? Why not just take the weight of the engine off the bolt with a car jack and then drive it out, I've just had a look at my RS and the exhaust pipes aren't in the way. Forgive me if I'm missing something here- it has been known...

 

[Kenny]

Kenny, perhaps there's something I don't understand here, but do you really need a ramp to change the mounting bolt? Why not just take the weight of the engine off the bolt with a car jack and then drive it out, I've just had a look at my RS and the exhaust pipes aren't in the way. Forgive me if I'm missing something here- it has been known...

No John, you are spot on re the job ...it is me that can't bend my knee at the moment to get down there !! Stitches only out last week and I'm just getting the RS all preped ( this is the last of the jobs ) for the Dragon Rally in early Feb

 

[John Roberts]

Hell's bells, Kenny, what happened there, anything bike-related? Are you recovering ok? That stitching looks a very neat job by the way. GWS

 

[PW Cymru]

That's what you get from a life of shinning down drain pipes

 

[Kenny]

That's what you get from a life of shinning down drain pipes

Bastid !

 

[Kenny]

Hell's bells, Kenny, what happened there, anything bike-related? Are you recovering ok? That stitching looks a very neat job by the way. GWS

Not sure...that knee got twatted by an unaccompanied/uninsured learner driver years ago...never the same....so after three other ops on it over the last two years they threw the thing away and stuck another one in there plus 50 staples...I'm walking like Jed Clampett at the mo

Managed a little ride yesterday though

 

[Schtum]

Back in the day, I was always told that fitting crashbars to a BMW was a no-no because, in any crash, the bars were likely to bend the frame and rocker covers were cheaper than frames....

 

[Kenny]

Shit, that's 125,578 airhead BMW's that need recalling......your just after my s/s engine mounts, well they're coming to bed with me !

Actually the crash bars bend very very easily, so all is well with the world...anything hitting them that would damage the frame probably would have with or without the bars.

 

[Schtum]

Shit, that's 125,578 airhead BMW's that need recalling......your just after my s/s engine mounts, well they're coming to bed with me !

Actually the crash bars bend very very easily, so all is well with the world...anything hitting them that would damage the frame probably would have with or without the bars.

It's what the pundits always said in the 70's. I just rode the things - although I did once lowside an R80 G/S on wet cobbles into the side of a daft old biddy who indcated left and turned right without the bars bending the frame....

 

[Paul Rochdale]

Simple to make your own in M10 stainless steel. I think the front stud is 275mm long and the rear one 297mm. When I re-fitted a Surefoot sidestand I found the standard rear stud a bit too short ie there wasn't enough thread for the nuts, so I made my own from M10 stainless steel. I cut threads on the ends - I need a HSS die as the High Carbon steel die wouldn't entertain the tough stainless - and made it about 310mm long. I may have the old 297mm stud somewhere.

 

[Voyager]

Good luck with the knee Kenny .

My wife had one replaced a few years ago and she now clumps about like Robo-Cop - she can't bend or kneel which isn't great with a 3-year-old Grandson running rings around her .

Of course . . . They have to be replaced every 15 years or so .

Remember . . They are NOT built-in knee sliders .

Bob.

 

[Paul Rochdale]

Simple to make your own in M10 stainless steel. I think the front stud is 275mm long and the rear one 297mm. When I re-fitted a Surefoot sidestand I found the standard rear stud a bit too short ie there wasn't enough thread for the nuts, so I made my own from M10 stainless steel. I cut threads on the ends - I need a HSS die as the High Carbon steel die wouldn't entertain the tough stainless - and made it about 310mm long. I may have the old 297mm stud somewhere.

Of course I meant 10mm diameter stainless steel rod. M10 is a metric thread.

 

[John Roberts]

Of course I meant 10mm diameter stainless steel rod. M10 is a metric thread.

Hang on, I just checked the one on my 1982 RS, the thread is M12 x 1.5, i.e. 12mm diameter and 1.5mm pitch.

 

[Kenny]

Easier in the long run to just pay the £10 for one

 

[Paul Rochdale]

You're probably right John. I was simply relying on my (failing) memory. Whatever, it was dead easy to make one myself.