Front Mud Guard

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Is it really necessary to remove the front wheel to get the front mud guard off?

I'm doing my hoses and need to get to the junction behind the mudguard. The manual says I have to remove the front wheel, which seems ridiculous to me!
 
Hi DA
When I did mine on my R1150GS no abs I didn't
But I didnt reuse the solid pipe I went for complete SS hoses to get rid of extra joins in the system
Did you get a right hand bleed nipple as well?
When working on my bike I endeavour to remove as little as possible so I can misplace as little as possible.

Adrian
 
Seeing as I have to take the lines off the calipers I may as well take the wheel off and give everything a good clean. I can see that trying to get at the Union without moving the mud guard will cause cursing and swearing, so I'll give it a go!
 
Is it really necessary to remove the front wheel to get the front mud guard off?

I'm doing my hoses and need to get to the junction behind the mudguard. The manual says I have to remove the front wheel, which seems ridiculous to me!
I don't remember taking the wheel off to do the brake lines on my GS. There is a bolt/screw in left and right side of the bridge to secure the lines as they traverse the back of it but they're accessable with everything in place?

Sure your reading it all correctly? Send us a picture.
 
I don't remember taking the wheel off to do the brake lines on my GS. There is a bolt/screw in left and right side of the bridge to secure the lines as they traverse the back of it but they're accessable with everything in place?

Sure your reading it all correctly? Send us a picture.

Agreed. No need to remove wheel or mudguard. Only the tank needs to come of if you have abs.
 
Theres 1 allen screw securing the front mudguard to the fork brace.you have to remove the front wheel to get to this screw.without removing this screw you cant get to the hose connections.well I couldnt.
 
Mudguard and wheel don't have to come off. There's one bolt holding the splitter (on the LH side of the bridge) and a screw holding a little bracket that supports the house on the RH side. That's it. You may want to undo the bolt holding the mudguard leg do you can bend it clear to help access the banjo on the caliper, but that's only if you 'want' to.

Send us a picture. If it's not a standard set up then maybe you have a different issue?

Incidentally, if you do want to get the mudguard off then the wheel will have to come off so you can access the two screws holding it fixed to the underside of the bridge.

Lastly, if you're replacing the lines, i'd recommend keeping the hard line across the bridge. More hard lines the better.
 
This might help (maybe not!). This shot was taken while i was replacing the ball joint. I later replaced the crap rubber hoses showing here, but the two mounting points are i hope clear to see.

Does this look different from what you see on your GS?
 

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Maybe this is a clearer image...
 

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This might help (maybe not!). This shot was taken while i was replacing the ball joint. I later replaced the crap rubber hoses showing here, but the two mounting points are i hope clear to see.

Does this look different from what you see on your GS?

Yes, very different. Mine has a wheel there.
 
Thanks for all of the replies.
I'll have another good look at it today - I only had a quick look yesterday as I was getting towards the end of the time I had to work on it. The bike is an 1100 with ABS if that makes any difference.

But seriously, who decided to make it necessary to remove the wheel to take the mudguard off!
By the way, is there any reason why I can't give the connections a squirt of WD 40 to help things along?
 
If WD40 is all you have give it a go but many others on here don't rate it. A purpose made easing oil is better. .

And you're right, it's a bum place to put the bolts. Seriously open to the elements! Saying that, for the job I did they came off Ok.
 
Right, I've had another look. I can't see any way of doing it without removing the wheel.
Just going to pop into town to get some copper grease fr putting it back together.
 
I'm just back from a run. Went passed a parked 1100 and stopped to look at the front brake lines. I now see the difference from the 1150 and why you're wanting/needing to take off the mudguard.

A picture would've helped! :thumb

I'd still keep as many of the hard lines as you can i.e. use the original hard lines already on there.
 
Hi again,
A photo would have helped, but I've started another thread about how to transfer photos from my phone to my iPad!
I took the wheel and mudguard off, something I've never done before. Thanks to Mr Chris Harris' video on YouTube it seemed quite straight forward. When I put everything back together I used a lot of copper anti seize! The only slight issue is that I was a little reluctant to tweak the pinch bolts up until the torque wrench clicked. For some reason they seemed to go a long way compared to the axle and caliper bolts and I didn't want to strip any threads.

Now I just need to get the brakes bled and then we should be away. Many thanks for the help and advice, it's what makes this website so valuable.
 
I've started another thread about how to transfer photos from my phone to my iPad!

Dropbox.

Bloody ridiculous that to get photos from a phone to an ipad you have to upload them to a cloud server in the states and then download them again but that's Apple for you...
 


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