yes, i ll be hitting motorworks up soon. Its a small tear so will first hope to get away with just replacing boot. If it looks dodge I'll replace the joint. Its a key component, but prefer to just do the boot!
Front Suspension Ball Joint Gaiter
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bikemad
Registered user
Keep up at the back see my post actually doing the job !
Adventuredon
The joint is easy to check once weight is off it you'd feel play,if it's tight but smooth moving like mine just replace boot
alex_rsa
Registered user
...and replacing the joint is not very easy...
Something like 250nm and you will need to remove the yoke from the bike. Also you need a massive socket (46mm?) that ideally you want it ground flat as the bolt part of the the balljoint is very flat. I had to build a jig to be able to torque up the bolt.
This was done in the days before you could get a replacement rubber, i have subsequently done just the boot on its own and it is very simple.
For those who do not want to order a rubber boot from Motorworks I believe the boot is the same as the balljoints on a E90 3-series BMW - but you will need to check which one.
Something like 250nm and you will need to remove the yoke from the bike. Also you need a massive socket (46mm?) that ideally you want it ground flat as the bolt part of the the balljoint is very flat. I had to build a jig to be able to torque up the bolt.
This was done in the days before you could get a replacement rubber, i have subsequently done just the boot on its own and it is very simple.
For those who do not want to order a rubber boot from Motorworks I believe the boot is the same as the balljoints on a E90 3-series BMW - but you will need to check which one.
bikemad
Registered user
Great Id like to see how bodged it looks also can still let water in
£4.99 another £5 you can buy the proper thing only takes half hour to do the job properly 
Bendy toy
Registered user
I would wrap a split ball joint boot with self amalgamating tape as a temporary fix to keep dirt out. But a new boot is easy enough to fit. So the fix would not need to last long.
bikemad
Registered user
Exactilly as I said people ride a £4-5 K bike but don't want to spend £10 on the proper replacement gator from MW
Bendy toy
Registered user
I think the issue might be BMW charging £10 for a £1 part.
It's the same with spark coils. £80 each is silly money when car engines use almost identical parts at £80 for four.
Swing arm bearings are another. I used 2RS angular contact ball bearings out of principle because the FAG specials were BMW only.
These specials can only be to force the sale of over priced BMW parts so people look for alternatives
It's the same with spark coils. £80 each is silly money when car engines use almost identical parts at £80 for four.
Swing arm bearings are another. I used 2RS angular contact ball bearings out of principle because the FAG specials were BMW only.
These specials can only be to force the sale of over priced BMW parts so people look for alternatives
Bikemad, had a go at this yesterday but it was too tight. How did you link the 2 spanners together to get more leverage? Will try some heat too. Also, if I disconnect the brake line -banjo bolt, to get more displace to work, I presume I'll get fluid coming out? or is this bit a no no
Ok, you. Tubed it. Will try this Two Wrench Leverage Trick. Using 2 wrenches to in…: http://youtu.be/SDI4j1LgqV4
bikemad
Registered user
The nut is tight cos it's lock tighted don't undo the brake banjo there is no need,just like in my pics put a Torx key in the bolt & a rag against the fork so it doesn't mark it,not sure you'll get heat on it bit difficult in that area just persevere it'll undo ok.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Do you mean remove the whole swing arm? I would have thought just taking off the forks would give enough access.
alex_rsa
Registered user
I took the the yoke of the bike and bolted it down onto a jig on the end of bit of scaffold pole. I don't have a vice which would of made it easier.
Access is very limited on the bike and with the bolt sides being short you want to make sure you are straight on with the socket. You don't want to slip with 250nm of torque.
If you left the wishbone on the bike and removed the forks will have to stop the bike falling over. By the time you have the fork legs out removing the wishbone is quite simple.
Alex
Access is very limited on the bike and with the bolt sides being short you want to make sure you are straight on with the socket. You don't want to slip with 250nm of torque.
If you left the wishbone on the bike and removed the forks will have to stop the bike falling over. By the time you have the fork legs out removing the wishbone is quite simple.
Alex
bikemad
Registered user
Why are some rattling on about the whole joint ? it's the gator that was asked about a £10 rubber seal available from Motorworks etc only need to remove the top nut
Time Traveller
Registered user
Can't seem to get that link to do anything...is it just me?
Google two wrench leverage video
bikemad
Registered user
Done and dusted. 60 minutes for me.
bikemad
Registered user
It is indeed easy imagine a bmw mechanic an hours work lol & a nice price for it too !
Yea, but he would do it quicker And know the trick to put the lower retainer on with ease. Me, I did tie wrap mod!
