Front Suspension Change

If it is a known issue the customer should be advised and warned of the potential consequences should they wish to proceed. This is what I would do,we see it regularly with glow plugs in modern diesel engines they can be a swine to remove and can easily break ending up in the head needing to be removed.We never proceed without the customer being made aware of the issue and advising them that if they break we are not responsible.
 
Trying to work out which bar it is so can have a look at mine. Going to do the shocks next month so better check.
is it no 4 in picture? As I'm sure it had no bolts in last time I had them off.
 

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It's part 7 on the Adventure. The fuel tank bars plug into the ends of No 7 with an M8 socket cap screw about 50mm long. The ends of 2 and 3 plug into the ends of the tank bars and are held with little M5 screws (No 8) as used on the bodywork.

If you have them, also check the Adventure side case frame mounts under the seat. The aluminium reacts with the bolt and seizes solid. I got mine out (just). I gunked it up with copper paste and its been fine ever since.
 
Mark, if the local engineering firm can't do it, give me a shout. I have cobalt left hand drill bits, if all else fails I can take the bars to work with me and get the remains machined out and retapped.

The engine block bolt might be a different challenge......
 
some of you guys kill me you really do,so its your bike with seized bolts and its the dealers fault?,they advised the op about it unless i got that bit wrong.if they had snapped a bolt off by for instance crossthreading it then fair enough,you cant expect them to own your problems.Few years ago people thought about preventative maintenence and would prob have looked at certain bits on their bike and thought about what happens if those bolts corroded and removed and greased them or whatever.Now that bikes are expensive toys for some they dont want to have any involvement in the nuts and bolts of it.
 
some of you guys kill me you really do,so its your bike with seized bolts and its the dealers fault?,they advised the op about it unless i got that bit wrong.if they had snapped a bolt off by for instance crossthreading it then fair enough,you cant expect them to own your problems.Few years ago people thought about preventative maintenence and would prob have looked at certain bits on their bike and thought about what happens if those bolts corroded and removed and greased them or whatever.Now that bikes are expensive toys for some they dont want to have any involvement in the nuts and bolts of it.

Plus one for that.
Stuff gets old. Designers don't always get it right. Deal with it and get the bolts drilled out or spark eroded.


Sent somehow.
 
Once apart each time, I use lashings of copper grease before re-fitting the bars :D
 
I think you'll find it is lashings of ginger beer !

When in doubt, use liquid nitrogen to "free off" bolts etc then clean thread's on both side's before re assemly with lithium grease.

There's no requirement for any copper grease, it isn't heat dependent.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
 
Stainless shakes loose all too easily so I use copper grease. It's less of a lubricant.
I tried marine grade high dielectric grease (elsewhere) it's slippery stuff and the screws shook loose. A good quality copper paste never has.

Sent somehow.
 
I well remember my mech eng. module where I was told torque settings are dry and you should never ever use any grease.

Then Captain Todd, said this; in the real world at sea, if you don't coat it with grease it'll be fucked double quick time.

Views will differ due to our own experiences.

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I must pop into my garage and check my stocks of liquid nitrogen, I hope it isnt leaking. :rolleyes:
 
They broke it, they fix it !

There is a duty of care owed, personally I'd offer to pay £30 and that's it.

Strange how I changed my front shock I only had to slacken off the upper bit of the crash bar's.

Good luck, hope it gets sorted soon.

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Tell them you want the bike back in the same condition (or better) than the condition it arrived in - not unreasonable IMHO.
These kinds of stories always get my blood boiling. I don't know how they have the cheek to ask you to pay for parts that they've broken.....grrrrrrrrr. :mad:

You pair of gormless twats... :D

Why the feck should i (or any other main dealer or independent) have to take responsibility for bolts that break due to being seized. It's not our fault.
 
I well remember my mech eng. module where I was told torque settings are dry and you should never ever use any grease.

Then Captain Todd, said this; in the real world at sea, if you don't coat it with grease it'll be fucked double quick time.

Views will differ due to our own experiences.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

The same applies on British winter roads. That salt never fully goes away but fosters electrolytic corrosion just the same. I have some Rocol copper paste (very expensive) and some Action Can high temperature anti seize grease. Both seem to work just as well.
 
If, I'm paying a shitload of money to a main dealer, I expect

1) some level of advice, ie it is possible there could be problem's in this area. Not, as I understand it, after you've broken the first one tell the customer that the second could snap as well.

2) If, it is such a well know problem then why wait until after the fuck up ?

3) This is a garage, who do this as a business, not a favour to a mate. They are supposed to be professional, strangly that also means a duty of care too.

4) shit does happen, no matter how careful you are; it is how you deal with it afterwards, that sorts the wheat from the chaff.

I own a pre war lorrry, this means preventive maintenance. On my bike's, I start on one side and undo/grease/retorque all nuts/bolts/etc then work around it.

With 19 bikes, it takes approx 3 months, on two bikes per day per week.

The problem is; owner's not looking after their vehicle's properly, and garage's only doing the minimum required.


There are some excellent garage's independent and main dealer's who go the extra mile, and even treat customer's as people and not someone to fleece and treat like an idiot.

Any grease is probably better than none, I was taught; many years ago, that copper/aluminium grease should only be used in heat related area's.

I do hear that there's new modern ideas !

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