Fuel pump gone

PW Cymru

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Went down to Bournemouth for the day, got to my destination and the bike cut as I parked up.
Couldn't restart it so left it to cool down.

Couple of hours later still no joy.

AA man came and found it to be a failed fuel pump.

Bugger, now need a new pump :(
 
Is that what he thinks it is??

Pumps stop for various reasons.

Can be frustrating to find where the fault is, Check the pump relay - identical to the horn / lights etc so check the horn works and swap the relay see if the horn still works or if the pump starts. Cant remember which now and its too dark to check:ronno
Wirig loom from ignition switch can fray if its bound too tightly to the headstock, most of us have cut the cable ties to reduce the likleyhood of failure.
Wiggle the handle bars lock to lock with the ignition on and see if the pump comes on.
Check the connector block rear RHS tank that you disconnect to remove the tank.
The female connectors can splay leading to pump stopping, close them all slightly using a slim flat screwdriver blade, reconnect and test for pump sound.
Then I'd check the side stand switch as this is prone to getting filled with crud or the micro switch which activates when the stand is retracted.
Oh and go through all the fuses again checking continuity.

Then Id take the tank off and take the pump out.
Dont spend a fortune @ 200.00 nicker for a new BMW one, there is a much cheaper identical automotive replacement which PEKKA (thanks Pekka me old mate) found and Ive used these last 3 years with no issues. (@ £75.00 if i remember correctly)
All the above has been discussed at times so do a search.
It's not too bad to sort yourself as I found.:beerjug:
 
All Flatdog suggests is right on the money. :beerjug:

Th'AA man has had a wild guess, because they all almost all car bods and can't be arsed to spend the time and work things out, or his boss doesn't like him spending the time to do the same. :blagblah
 
Bugger, now need a new pump :(

Here ya go Paul :thumb2

£30 delivered :clap

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EDIT....if you're careful and moderately lucky, you don't need the fuel assembly hatch seal O ring, but it's probably worth getting one from Motorworks anyway.....try refitting the original carefully but you'll have one if it leaks then :)
 
before you go charging about buying fuel pumps I suspect that maybe a hose has not blown off or a filter split

Number One check the condition of the fuel pump connector if its all green and yeugh get a shot of ACF50 in there and let it do its thing for an hour or two

Then if still no working test "I think" its the green with white trace wire at the pump connector it should power up for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned on

If You have power? then take the tank off and check a hose has not blown off or a filter split ? and if nothing obvious test the pump

If you don;t have power? (Then you probably don;t need a Pump!)

use a needle or pin and push it in the green wire about 3 or 4 inches back from the connector (bike side of it) and test for power again, got power? then you can jump a link over to the pump side

Ah If not? I found the thread with all the relay bits n stuff LINKY
 
First question nobody seems to have asked, can you hear the pump priming when you switch on? If so, I'd be looking at the filter/internal pipes as mentioned above.

One tip I got from somewhere on this forum, with the 'O' ring for the pump plate, if it looks OK, stick it in a bowl of warm water for 15-20 mins. That will 'relax' it back to its normal shape, much easier to re-fit. I was sceptical till I tried it, works a treat.

A spare is still agood idea though...


Edit Just noticed DrFarkoff mentioned pump running...
 
Thanks for the feedback and tips chaps.

When the man with the van came to help me out we took off the fuel tank and tried to remotely power up the pump with no response.

He also did a check with his multi meter.

Over the last few months the pump has had a bit of a squeal on priming but nothing when it failed so it does pretty much confirm the pump.

Think I'll go with Fanum's replacement option.

Typical would happen on our 28th wedding anniversary too, never mind there's always next year :D
 
someone will correct me on this I believe an audi 80 fuel pump is the same but a lot cheaper


looks like it
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-80-1...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35c3bd3042

30 quids

do not order it until some confirms its the correct part

I've had an Audi 80 fuel pump in my 97 1100GS for several thousand miles now

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=301524&highlight=fuel+pump

Mine wasn't that cheap from GSF, but I was assured that it was OE quality. This pump is also a straight swap as the electrical connections are the same as the original BMW pump.
 
Yes its the same, however, Id go for fannies one its got special bits included.

But fanums one has a different electrical connector, so you'll need to cut and solder the existing wires, I'm not sure how you would insulate the joins to be petrol proof? (is heatshrink petrol proof?)
 
But fanums one has a different electrical connector, so you'll need to cut and solder the existing wires, I'm not sure how you would insulate the joins to be petrol proof? (is heatshrink petrol proof?)

I'm at a loss to understand why anyone would want to make a simple replacement job, more complicated.

As has been stated the Audi 80 pump is a direct cheaper replacement. The other type quoted as you say would require modification to fit.:nenau

For me it's a no brainier. Fit the Audi 80 pump.
 


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