Fuel Starvation?

[AdrianS]

Bought a 2004 F650GS a couple of weeks ago and took it out for the first time today.

Starts fine but after half a mile or so it kept cutting out and had to be restarted every time I slowed down or came to a junction.

Managed to get back home and it started Ok on the side stand and then cut out.

Not very familiar with these bikes but assume the problem is fuel starvation or even dirty fuel.

Any help in where to start in sorting it out - need to acquire a wsm but any suggestions welcome.

Cheers

Adrian

 

[Uncle-Fester]

Hi, my knowledge is limited, but I'll try to help if I can.
Did the engine misfire before it died or just die clean?
Is it both cylinders or one in particular?
Fuel filter and fuel lines would be the first things to check, it could also be ignition failure, Ign coil/pack/Spark Plugs?

 

[Losttheplot]

Hi, my knowledge is limited, but I'll try to help if I can.
Did the engine misfire before it died or just die clean?
Is it both cylinders or one in particular?
Fuel filter and fuel lines would be the first things to check, it could also be ignition failure, Ign coil/pack/Spark Plugs?

Seeing as it's 2004 it#s probably a rotax single. Don't think the 650 twins appeared until 2006/07.

The cutting out, does this occur when slowing down for junctions etc, with no throttle and between gears? Is the bike warm when this happens?

 

[AdrianS]

I started it again when cold and it starts fine. If I let it tickover it will die after a couple of minutes.
When on the road it seems to hold its speed when doing 50 to 60 but as soon as I slow down it just dies when coming to a junction or changing down.

 

[DRAIN MAN]

Try the very expensive fuel filter !!! Quoted £71 +vat under the air box, easy to get at.

 

[AdrianS]

Been told that the battery terminals can work loose so will check those first. Also the charge on the battery was low so put it on charge for now.
At 50 - 60 it seems to keep running. If the filter was blocked would it not cut out at high speed?
It dies when slowing down when coming to a standstill !

 

[Mav]

Could it be as basic as the breather for the fuel tank? See if you can hear/feel a vacuum as you open the fuel tank, and/or if it then runs easier.

Hope that helps

 

[Micky]

Could it be as basic as the breather for the fuel tank? See if you can hear/feel a vacuum as you open the fuel tank, and/or if it then runs easier.

Hope that helps

What he says ....

The filler cap isn't vented, that's done on top of the fuel tank, under the seat. There's a fall over ball valve, so if the bike err mmm falls over then petrol doesn't run out of the vent breather. Ball been known to stick ... with the bike upright blow through the vent pipe to check its all free

 

[Uncle-Fester]

In which case try riding it with the filler cap unlocked (try not to fall off) or run it with filler cap open, should be apparent fairly quickly??

 

[AdrianS]

Tried riding with the filler cap open yesterday - still did the same!

Again, not sure why it will run ok at 50 - 60 mph but only cut out when the revs drop when coming to a standstill.

Ive got to check the battery terminals when I have fathomed out how to get to them - is there any point in disconnecting the battery for 20 mins to reset the ecu?

 

[Uncle-Fester]

How is the timing advanced and retarded on these modern contraptions?

Hall sensor?

Timing issue?

 

[Micky]

Then your next line of attack is the throttle position sensor IF it is only a problem when you reduce speed for junctions etc. i.e. simply won't tickover ...

Switch ignition on, don't press the button but just slowly open the throttle to full throttle position, and close. Do this three times and then switch off. You have now reset the throttle position sensor.

Ignition on and press the button to start the 'bike. N E V E R - E V E R touch the throttle as you are spinning the engine over to start your 'bike ... it fecks the throttle position sensor setting!

 

[Uncle-Fester]

Then your next line of attack is the throttle position sensor IF it is only a problem when you reduce speed for junctions etc. i.e. simply won't tickover ...

Switch ignition on, don't press the button but just slowly open the throttle to full throttle position, and close. Do this three times and then switch off. You have now reset the throttle position sensor.

Ignition on and press the button to start the 'bike. N E V E R - E V E R touch the throttle as you are spinning the engine over to start your 'bike ... it fecks the throttle position sensor setting!

Is this the same for all models? (or to be more acurate, is it the same for the 1100?)

 

[Micky]

Is this the same for all models? (or to be more acurate, is it the same for the 1100?)

No, only the 650 singles with the Rotax engine.

If one opens the throttle slightly while starting, it confuses the throttle position sensor, then the engine won't tickover at all, runs as rough as a box o' frogs. OK at speed ...

 

[Uncle-Fester]

Thanks for the info

 

[AdrianS]

Will check battery connections, make sure battery is fully charged, reset TPS, do what the manual says regarding starting the bike and hope for the best!

 

[Losttheplot]

If none of that works, check your thermostat is operating properly. My bike is running a bigger radiator with no 'stat, and in cold weather, especially after fast road work it can also give the symptoms you describe. No issue once the bike has had a chance to warm through again though.

 

[tadhgocuilleain]

I don't know these bikes at all, but it's not something as simple as a choke being left on? Runs cold but not hot...

 

[AdrianS]

No separate choke on mine.
Radiator and thermostat seem fine.
Need to check basics first before looking
For any further problems!

 

[wreck diver]

Hi Adrian
I have just,spoken to a pal of mine who had the almost identical symptoms.
After many checks it turned out to be the Idle Actuator,clogged up.
This is on the injector body.

He is happy for you to give him a call.pm me for his number