Fuses.

Gargy

Gargy

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I'm looking to power auxiliary lights. Someone on here posted that there are two fuses under the seat. One is 10amp for the dash cluster, and the other is 7.5amp for the alarm.

I have located them, and they are both there. Now considering I don't have the alarm fitted, what does the 7.5amp fuse feed ?

And can I use it to power my DRL's ?..................... Or should I leave well alone due to canbus issues ?

Ta muchly.
 
I already have the piggy back fuse holder in hand.

Which fuse did you piggy back on to, and did you put a on/off switch to control the lights, or just let them come on/go off with the power ?

Cheers.
 
Hi can't remember which fuse but only one will switch off after 60 seconds, I have covered the lot in tape as it will obviously not go back in its case. Note that it is no good using a meter a load needs to be attached. Never bothered with a switch as canbus shuts down after 60 Seconds
 
General basic vehicle wiring principles.... (though some may disagree with me on this).....Go direct to battery, take relay switch feed from the lowest powered ignition switched circuit you can find, as close to battery as you can, and piggy back where possible rather than cut in to a wire.

Make it all as simple as you possibly can for a) future removal, b) fault finding and c) minimal high current flow wiring distances.

Label everything (EG a tag on the top of a relay saying "Aux lights lower", "fuse for dashboard USB charger supply" on a fuse for that item or whatever) 'cos in 18 months, you won't remember what that particular relay or connection was for......NEVER use a scotchlock, ALWAYS use protected terminals and heat shrink, use crimps rather than soldered connections.

If you can, use a standard colour scheme in your wiring......I use RED for big current (IE post relay switched supply) cables, GREEN for the switched positive supply TO a relay (Green for "go"....means a switched supply for me) and black for an earth connection...yellow for a lit switch supply.

Canbus is simple as long as you avoid it.....I've wired plenty of lights and gizmos to canbus bikes and that's my basic principle.....go direct to battery, keep the circuits separate and well protected and you can't really go wrong :) :thumb2
 
Hi all - I agree with Fanum. Use the extra fuse gizmo to provide the switching power for the relay - that way the impact on the existing circuit is minimal. If you use a 5 pole relay you can get 2 switched feeds off to provide power for another accessory.
 
Reckless said:
Hi all - I agree with Fanum. Use the extra fuse gizmo to provide the switching power for the relay - that way the impact on the existing circuit is minimal. If you use a 5 pole relay you can get 2 switched feeds off to provide power for another accessory.
Click to expand...

I agree with you both, and is a more preferred method. My last comment would be that led use minimal current and works absolutely fine the way I described earlier.
 
Sounds like I bought a handle bar switch for no reason................... The DRL's are 3w LED's, so should not bother the canbus system (I hope).

I'm just going to piggy back into the switched fuse under the seat, no relay and no switch................. What's the worst that could happen ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331012338219?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Going to fabricate my own mounts from some 12mm stainless tubing, I may weld them straight into the Givi crash bars, or use the under beak holes to hold them in place.

Pics to follow when I get round to it.
 
Gargy said:
I'm looking to power auxiliary lights. Someone on here posted that there are two fuses under the seat. One is 10amp for the dash cluster, and the other is 7.5amp for the alarm.

I have located them, and they are both there. Now considering I don't have the alarm fitted, what does the 7.5amp fuse feed ?

And can I use it to power my DRL's ?..................... Or should I leave well alone due to canbus issues ?

Ta muchly.
Click to expand...

Check page 130 of the riders manual - the 7.5 amp fuse does not cover the alarm - it covers the LH multifunction switch & tyre pressure monitors. The 10 amp covers the instrument cluster, alarm, ignition switch & diagnostic socket. I can't see why only 1 would be ignition switched - what switches the other as you would not want it live all the time?
 
Yes l know it's a stupid question but since my bike doesn't lane for a few weeks.

And the penny has finally dropped on what the piggy back fuse holder from eBay is and since l will be adding some extra bits.

Yes l know lm a numpty.....

Is it a standard or micro fuse piggy back holder l will need

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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