Fywheel removal gs

[johno118]

Hi can anyone tell me do I need a Flywheel puller to pull flywheel on my r1100gs'

Just replacing box and clutch and it occured to me flywheel mite not just peel off , Already bought new seal and bolts.

Also, read through post,s two night,s running still cant find much on mating that akward to reach ruber boot back on to output shaft back of box.

Just rememberd to ask , also do you think graphite greese will be ok on splines etc which I already have.
Halfords didn,t have the right stuff m3 or watever it is I cant remember .

 

[Colban]

Hi can anyone tell me do I need a Flywheel puller to pull flywheel on my r1100gs'

Just replacing box and clutch and it occured to me flywheel mite not just peel off , Already bought new seal and bolts.

Also, read through post,s two night,s running still cant find much on mating that akward to reach ruber boot back on to output shaft back of box.

Just rememberd to ask , also do you think graphite greese will be ok on splines etc which I already have.
Halfords didn,t have the right stuff m3 or watever it is I cant remember .

I presume you are talking about the flywheel/starter ring gear behind the clutch.They are tight.....I had to use an impact gun to get the bolts out and a torque wrench and then a degree indicator to tighten the new bolts up again.
The rubber boot is a pain.Well lubed with red rubber grease and try to poke it into place with a screwdriver.
I use graphite grease on the splines myself;not too much on the clutch splines though.

 

[johno118]

Thank,s Colban,
The crank seal isn,t leaking 47,000.
I was just gona do it while I was in there but I,v decided not to disturb .Prob come back n bite me but meby not.
Iv just bin reading about graphite grease and it is recomended.
Anyone reading this , dont use copper grease as some do. manufacturers dont recomend.
It,s more for rust prevention and to stop things locking together not to do real work.

 

[Wrigsby1]

Yep, I wouldn't do the crank seal unless it's leaking. They usually have a problem due to under use, much like the gearbox seals. Mine had quite a weep for ages and i did it at the same time as the clutch and found a healthy amount of oil behind the flywheel. The flywheel protects the clutch plate from weeping engine oil (my experience). If you have no weep then I would leave

Suprisingly, what i found was the lower crankcase bolts were just over hand tight and needed nipping up. The halves are factory joined with a small amount of sealant.

I used moly grease on the splines. Bought some for an old K and it does for this job as well.

I can't remember the boot being a complete bstrd but I may be just being forgetful

 

[Steptoe]

Push the swingarm all the way back in a hard fast movement and the rubber gaiter just pops in place. Keep/hold the swingarm in place while you insert the pivot pins to stop it coming back off.

And as you say, copper grease isn't a spline/friction grease. Greases usually have specific purposes.

 

[MattW]

Push the swingarm all the way back in a hard fast movement and the rubber gaiter just pops in place. Keep/hold the swingarm in place while you insert the pivot pins to stop it coming back off.

And as you say, copper grease isn't a spline/friction grease. Greases usually have specific purposes.

Worked for me - well greased and a quick thrust

I used Honda Moly 60 on the splines but I'd happily use a high moly normal grease if I didn't already have a tube of the Honda stuff - Halfords do a high molybdenum, black, sticky as a sticky thing CV joint grease that's good and affordable - I use this on paralever bearings etc

 

[johno118]

I did leave the crank seal.
New clutch spring plate+ stretch bolts ,friction plate ,300 squid gearbox off ebay and rebuild .
I put the push rod in the crank centre and eybald the the centering of the friction plate.
Did as sugested with the paralever r gator lubed it with washin up liquid and pushed it hard and fast ,pop strait on.
Then I noticed it dint look right off again the big spring clip in the gator had come out and was sat in the paralever '
Sorted it repeated and she,s on.
My torqe bar doesent do 7nm for the wasname pivot jobies so I tightend in by hand untilthere was no free play side to side etc in paralever same with diff. Obviously loctited threads.

Next after replacing airbox could not get frame to drop back down properly, scratched head a bit then realised put shock on facing wrong way .Turned it round airbox cleared it frame came down snug fit and the bolts went in. Wheel back on brake back on footmount,s, tye wraps gearbox oil a final once over and away I went on a 50 mile test drive .
Well chufed , spot on very nice . the new spring plate gives you such an easy soft clutch action ,always replace, them get hard and brital with milage. Away the lads.