G650 Sertao - gearbox woes and Touratech adjustable gear lever?

[timob]

Hello again,

I have previously posted regarding 1st gear not staying in, I have learnt to live with it
see my old post
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/399827-G650-Sertao-1st-gear-keeps-popping-out-Please-help/page2

Now I have issues with it just not going from 2nd to 3rd and I have red lined it for a brief second when desperately trying to upshift it. During these trying gear shifts the lever moves freely it just doesn't 'click' to the higher gear and trust me if I moved my foot any further up it would snap off at the ankle!

I am toying with the idea of getting the TT adjustable gear lever so my size 12 motor cross boots might fit better. I have tried moving the lever on the spline but its too coarse adjustment and its either too low to get my boot under or too high to get any gears during upshift. (it does also have TT lowered footrests for my 6'4" frame)

Questions:
Does anyone have any positive experience of fitting the flipping £60 crap looking adjustable gear lever from TT?

Where on the foot should the gear lever rest?

I read on here about getting second hand Suzuki or Honda gear lever to replace but I can't find it now - can you help?

Any help would be seriously appreciated.

Timo

 

[Timolgra]

Wrong position is a common issue with lowered footrests because as you say moving it one spline can be too much.

Get another gear lever an weld it onto either the original or one with the same spline and bend it to suit.

Here's one I've done which has also been extended to suit big boots and lowered pegs. (although non of this will affect your gear change problem between 2nd and 3rd).

 

[timob]

Hi Timolgra,

Thanks for the reply. I don't suppose you remember which bike you had that front part of the mod'ed lever off?

Where abouts on your foot is the optimum location or the sprung 'foot shifter bit' supposed to be?

Thanks

 

[Timolgra]

Hi Timolgra,

Thanks for the reply. I don't suppose you remember which bike you had that front part of the mod'ed lever off?

Where abouts on your foot is the optimum location or the sprung 'foot shifter bit' supposed to be?

Thanks

Just look on ebay for a lever to raid the front part.

As far as position, somewhere level with the top of the footrest but that depends on what you want, sitting, standing, boots, your ankles, when standing I often change up with the edge of my boot anyway, my foot doesn't need to go right under the lever etc etc.

Trial and error

 

[timob]

Well I left work early, bent gear lever to optimal position. Then off I went. I was SO happy to be out on my bike. Took the houndskirk moor trail near my house. Then disaster struck. Gearbox is really not changing from 2nd to 3rd, it's worse when it's warmed up (cooling fan does operate ok) . The only way is sort is to slow right down drop back to 1st then go 2nd then 3rd.

I was really hoping it was just gear lever angle /boots. How tricky is it to split the gearbox, is there a guide somewhere?

Oil is 15w50 as per Bmw uk, filter and oil changed 6000 miles ago (7months). Other than 1st gear shenanigans which has got much better, the rest of the gearbox has been sweet as a nut.

Can anyone help? If I took it to an independent garage how much would they charge to take the engine/gearbox out, replace selector forks etc?

If I went to Bmw to gets parts what's the cost?


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[Timolgra]

Can anyone help? If I took it to an independent garage how much would they charge to take the engine/gearbox out, replace selector forks etc?

If I went to Bmw to gets parts what's the cost?

You'd need to phone them and ask

 

[timob]

So if it is the selector forks that are gone, do I to have to dissemble the whole casing or is there a short cut if you only need to get to forks changed?


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[Dansin]

If it's the selector forks then unfortunately you'll need to split the cases. There's no easy fix.

 

[Micky]

Don't give up just yet, very rare the selector forks go faulty. Could be just a simple case of big feet and gear lever position, length of travel. Tim's advice is good Beware fitting the full Touratech lever, while it is adjustable, and the end will pivot back, the actual lever is so strong that a fall could break the end off your gear change shaft just where it exits the crankcases .... then it is engine out and split the crankcases

Do your boots have good ankle movement, are they like deep sea divers boots?

Take your bike for a ride in a pair of trainers (yes I know) and see if the problem is still there

 

[timob]

Thanks for the replies, on the f650.co.uk forum one guy is wondering whether it's a clutch related issue and to check the plates (which is a much easier job).

I did check the clutch freeplay this morning and at the handlebar end is 4/5mm when it should be 2mm, I will adjust tonight and give it a go.

It only got 10,500 miles on it, only does it when its warm. I haven't tried clutchless shifting when this occurs as I am not sure how to do it

Thanks

 

[Dansin]

Preload the lever for the upchange, briefly close the throttle slightly and open it again. It should change up smoothly.

Your cable could be stretched. If you've run out of adjustment at the bars you can undo the nut on the lever at the case, slide it off and move it back a notch on the splines.

 

[timob]

I have taken up the clutch cable play and just come back from a ride out (flipping awful weather).

Findings:
- clutch play take up has made no difference.
- when warm revving in 2nd above 4500rpm prevents you from selecting 3rd no matter whether its a clutchless or clutch shift.
- under 4000rpm allows 3rd to be selected.
- If I am honest accelerating hard always made 4-5th a bit pot luck but its doing it lower down the rev range nearer 5000rpm
- engine oil at exactly halfway and still nice light brown colour. Castrol 15W50 Power one 7 months and 6,000 miles ago.

Conclusion:
- Not looking good at all.
- independent garage said to remove engine, split casing and all other labour (no parts) it would be £430 + VAT
- This is bad, I have financially not recovered from taking up biking again at the beginning of the year.

Help/Suggestions
- Please help/comment
- Is there anything else I could try apart from taking the engine out/split casing etc

Are there any guides to splitting the G650 engine or is the Rotax engine exactly as this guide here for the F650 Classic?
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/EngineRemovalF650Classic.htm

 

[Timolgra]

Right I just had a thought and remembered I had similar symptoms on another bike but with a different type of gearbox.

Take the bike out again and when it won't change up to 3rd give a sharp tap to the END of the gear lever inward with your foot and try to shift again.

I learnt to live with a bike that did this 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th before solving it properly.

If you find it will change gear after trying the above then I'll tell more about what was wrong with the gearbox

 

[timob]

Ah right. Could you tell me if it is the problem above, whether I would still have to take the whole engine out and split the cases?

I will try when I am next out.

Thanks for your advice

 

[Timolgra]

Ah right. Could you tell me if it is the problem above, whether I would still have to take the whole engine out and split the cases?

I will try when I am next out.

Thanks for your advice

Never done one myself but yes, I believe you'd need to remove the engine unfortunately.

Also try laying the bike on it's side and removing the neutral indicator switch and check it's intact. It's a plastic holder with a spring behind a brass plunger, when the plunger drops into the neutral indents it make the connection to ignite the neutral light.
They can disintegrate and jam the selector.

The above is NOT connected with my previous suggestion.

 

[timob]

Hiya,

If I remove the neutral indicator switch, will a lot of oil come out if its on its side. Would I need a sealing gasket/o-ring to put back?

Thanks

 

[mikeyboy]

£430 labour sounds reasonable, add to this @£150 for gaskets/ seals, oils coolant etc ,plus whatever is buggered internally ,
Realistically if it needs gears or selector forks you may not get much change from £1k.
You need to get a proper diagnosis rather than relying on advise from here
The engine is essentially the same as the funduro,and the link you have posted would assist in splitting the engine,your bike is very different to a funduro though so that link will be useless for engine removal.
You need to be sure about what you are doing if you are going to set about pulling the engine down its a major job

 

[Timolgra]

Hiya,

If I remove the neutral indicator switch, will a lot of oil come out if its on its side. Would I need a sealing gasket/o-ring to put back?

Thanks

No, that's why I suggested lying it on it's side!

 

[Micky]

Has the bike been ex BMW 'Off Road School' ?

 

[timob]

Well I was really, really hoping it was a knackered neutral indicator switch but it's fine, plunger is intact and doesn't come out.

It's not ex Bmw off road but I do use it for road and trail riding.

I spoke to the local BMW dealer service guy who was surprised at the not changing 2-3 above 4500rpm but fine beforehand. He said he would take it for a ride out Sat morning to see if he can diagnose it without stripping it apart. I have also written a begging email to BMW uk as the bike is only 1 year past it warranty with 10.5k miles on it.

BMW want £540 to take engine out, split cases and inspect. Parts are £100 for gasket set, £50 selector forks x3, selector drum £81, selector shaft £50. So yeah would be not much change from a grand.

Is there anything else I could try? If it was the clutch I would still be able to do clutch less shifts though right?