in search of Father Jack.
Gael warning in the Congo
- Thread starter simondippenhall
- Start date
in search of Father Jack.
How was the caprivi strip? I went along it 20 years ago and it was a terrible road, also you couldn't pull off for a pee etc due to the land mine risk on both sides
Nick: Caprivi is fine (as it was in Feb when my wife and I rode it West)...main hazard is straying cattle now!
A brief update as now in Choma, Zanbubut the town has no leccy so WiFi confined to when the generator is on at my select accommodation
Left Sesheke at 8 after a rubbish breakfast (I have been spoilt by Namibia) and refuelled.
How is the road to Livingstone, I asked. She laughed and daisy: it's TOOOOO bad.
And of the 200 kms, about 100 was incredibly potholes or else just a gravel or sand trail. Nothing I haven't seen it dealt with many times before, but clearly slower progress. Miraculously, nothing seems to have fallen off or broken on the motorcycle...
And all along my route was Zambia's standard goods transport vehicle
Many carried wood or charcoal but also saw some loaded with onions. And it ain't flat, not are these lightweight bicycles. Respect, to be Cycling up those hills in the midday sun, not a hat to be seen.
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A brief update as now in Choma, Zanbubut the town has no leccy so WiFi confined to when the generator is on at my select accommodation
Left Sesheke at 8 after a rubbish breakfast (I have been spoilt by Namibia) and refuelled.
How is the road to Livingstone, I asked. She laughed and daisy: it's TOOOOO bad.
And of the 200 kms, about 100 was incredibly potholes or else just a gravel or sand trail. Nothing I haven't seen it dealt with many times before, but clearly slower progress. Miraculously, nothing seems to have fallen off or broken on the motorcycle...
And all along my route was Zambia's standard goods transport vehicle
Many carried wood or charcoal but also saw some loaded with onions. And it ain't flat, not are these lightweight bicycles. Respect, to be Cycling up those hills in the midday sun, not a hat to be seen.
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Got to Livingstone, the Zambian town at Victoria Falls, and refueled and had a spot of lunch while the bike was parked in sight
I normally never worry but tourist towns are the exception - perhaps the highly visible let inequality creates a different environment?
MTC could not supply me a Zambian SIM as they were doing a system change so I am currently restricted to WiFi when the generator is on here.
Hope to get one in Lusaka, my destination tomorrow and where I will meet an old friend if Johan, a friend who has posted here, at his bar O'Hagan's.
The afternoon 200 kms was a lot easier then the morning's with the only challenge being the heat... probably 35 C and when I checked in here I promptly showered and had an hour's nap
. My vigilance en route was maintained by watching out for speed traps especially given the strict speed limits here....which most vehicles seemed to ignore outside town
The heat was enhanced by the frequent fires used for farming I suspect
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I normally never worry but tourist towns are the exception - perhaps the highly visible let inequality creates a different environment?
MTC could not supply me a Zambian SIM as they were doing a system change so I am currently restricted to WiFi when the generator is on here.
Hope to get one in Lusaka, my destination tomorrow and where I will meet an old friend if Johan, a friend who has posted here, at his bar O'Hagan's.
The afternoon 200 kms was a lot easier then the morning's with the only challenge being the heat... probably 35 C and when I checked in here I promptly showered and had an hour's nap
. My vigilance en route was maintained by watching out for speed traps especially given the strict speed limits here....which most vehicles seemed to ignore outside townThe heat was enhanced by the frequent fires used for farming I suspect
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So today I left early and headed for Lusaka, a 300 kms trip on good roads. A few impressions
- Zambian motoring is ‘might is right’ so I had a few oncoming overtaking trucks and buses force me into the verge
-the single speed heavy duty bicycle is everywhere, loaded to the gunnels with goods
-you still see ploughs pulled by buffalo
- there are an increasing number of mosques
Lots of roadside charcoal sale stands
About a quarter of my journey was potholes or road repairs where you had to take a gravel or packed sand diversion...Often into thick dust which may it hard to spot oncoming vehicles
(I know Jim treasures memories of a similar day in Angola, running south to Lobito!).
Got to Lusaka by noon and battled the traffic, road works and heat. Then made an abortive attempt to get a COMESA insurance certificate to cover all of East Africa , before checking into the faded colonial Lusaka Hotel (a picture from their scrapbook):
Then off in pursuit of a SIM card, when I suddenly found myself walking barefoot due to a catastrophic failure of my flip flop (which came free with a hotel room in Addis last year!).
Fortunately I was near a store whose kind security guard led me to the requisite area and fitted me out with elegant blue Chinese made crocs (but only after I declined the pink ladies’ flip flops!)
Suitably dressed at a cost of £2, I went to the SIM shop where the efficient lady gave me a bunch of cards and asked me to choose my phone number
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- Zambian motoring is ‘might is right’ so I had a few oncoming overtaking trucks and buses force me into the verge
-the single speed heavy duty bicycle is everywhere, loaded to the gunnels with goods
-you still see ploughs pulled by buffalo
- there are an increasing number of mosques
Lots of roadside charcoal sale stands
About a quarter of my journey was potholes or road repairs where you had to take a gravel or packed sand diversion...Often into thick dust which may it hard to spot oncoming vehicles
(I know Jim treasures memories of a similar day in Angola, running south to Lobito!).Got to Lusaka by noon and battled the traffic, road works and heat. Then made an abortive attempt to get a COMESA insurance certificate to cover all of East Africa , before checking into the faded colonial Lusaka Hotel (a picture from their scrapbook):
Then off in pursuit of a SIM card, when I suddenly found myself walking barefoot due to a catastrophic failure of my flip flop (which came free with a hotel room in Addis last year!).
Fortunately I was near a store whose kind security guard led me to the requisite area and fitted me out with elegant blue Chinese made crocs (but only after I declined the pink ladies’ flip flops!)
Suitably dressed at a cost of £2, I went to the SIM shop where the efficient lady gave me a bunch of cards and asked me to choose my phone number
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And all that was needed to end a good day, before I head East towards Malawi tomorrow, was an evening at an Irish pub with a good friend of a good friend (Johan of this parish):
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So far the bike has been running well
. However shortly after leaving Windhoek (where the bike was serviced by BMW Motorrad) I heard a rattling below me.
When I got to really analyse it I realised I had lost one of the sump guard bolts
This is particularly annoying as
A) I only recently replaced them after the predecessors were damaged during a lorry ride out of the bush in Congo Brazzaville
B) they were eye-wateringly expensive
C) I suspect it was not properly tightened by BMW.
Any kind readers know the dimensions of this, the right hand front bolt? I am guessing my next possible Bmw source is Nairobi ( or getting it sent from S Africa).
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. However shortly after leaving Windhoek (where the bike was serviced by BMW Motorrad) I heard a rattling below me.When I got to really analyse it I realised I had lost one of the sump guard bolts
This is particularly annoying as
A) I only recently replaced them after the predecessors were damaged during a lorry ride out of the bush in Congo Brazzaville
B) they were eye-wateringly expensive
C) I suspect it was not properly tightened by BMW.
Any kind readers know the dimensions of this, the right hand front bolt? I am guessing my next possible Bmw source is Nairobi ( or getting it sent from S Africa
).Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Part 9 Cap nut M6 2 11121738607 $3.10
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sh...21-BMW-R_1150_GS_00_0415,0495_&diagId=11_2863
Attachments
And all that was needed to end a good day, before I head East towards Malawi tomorrow, was an evening at an Irish pub with a good friend of a good friend (Johan of this parish):
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Watch out Simon
Roy Keane is behind you !
Thanks Dr F and Frosti for your respective information!
So today was a day of three parts, in my recollection:
.I started by trying to find COMESA insurance cover for the East Africa countries, something I had failed at yesteuon arrival. So I decided to try the insurance company whose name was on my Zambia insurance, bought in the customs building at entry.
They were very helpful, said they could do the necessary and parked me in a very smart meeting room
There was a bit of a delay and some talk going on behind closed doors.
Then they informed me the certificate I had was not gwnuuans there was a scam going on in the border building.
Spot the difference?
They had a file full of similar forgeries.
So I swallowed my losses (about £20) and they went ahead and issued the necessary yellow card (trust me it is yellow not green in reality!)
This should cover me for Malawi, Tanzania, Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda if I get there, and also Sudan....if it too is not a forgery!
So began the second part. I left Lusaka by 10 having filled my tank to brimming. As usual I checked my GPS for the next fuel and gulped when I saw it was 300 kms away.
So I switched into Mr Careful mode and ran the bike mainly in 6th gear at 3,000 rpm as we swooped through the many hills. The roads were largely empty so apart the inevitable roadblocks (which usually waved me through) , so I was able to maintain a steady 85-90 kmh.
There was in fact a fuel station at 150 kms...but without any petrol
..
So eventually I made Kyimba bridge where there were several open petrol stations
. And in fact I did 216 miles using 15.5 litres so (assuming the remaining 6.5 litres were accessible to the fuel pump!) I probably had a range of 280 miles before deploying my Jerry can.
This anoraky interest on my part is because when I get to Ethiopia there may be long stretches without fuel! I have a 5 litre and a 2 litre can so total of 29 litres so possibly 400 miles (29/15.5 x 216 miles)
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.I started by trying to find COMESA insurance cover for the East Africa countries, something I had failed at yesteuon arrival. So I decided to try the insurance company whose name was on my Zambia insurance, bought in the customs building at entry.
They were very helpful, said they could do the necessary and parked me in a very smart meeting room
There was a bit of a delay and some talk going on behind closed doors.
Then they informed me the certificate I had was not gwnuuans there was a scam going on in the border building.
Spot the difference?
They had a file full of similar forgeries.
So I swallowed my losses (about £20) and they went ahead and issued the necessary yellow card (trust me it is yellow not green in reality!)
This should cover me for Malawi, Tanzania, Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda if I get there, and also Sudan
....if it too is not a forgery! So began the second part. I left Lusaka by 10 having filled my tank to brimming. As usual I checked my GPS for the next fuel and gulped when I saw it was 300 kms away.
So I switched into Mr Careful mode and ran the bike mainly in 6th gear at 3,000 rpm as we swooped through the many hills. The roads were largely empty so apart the inevitable roadblocks (which usually waved me through) , so I was able to maintain a steady 85-90 kmh.
There was in fact a fuel station at 150 kms...but without any petrol
So eventually I made Kyimba bridge where there were several open petrol stations
. And in fact I did 216 miles using 15.5 litres so (assuming the remaining 6.5 litres were accessible to the fuel pump!) I probably had a range of 280 miles before deploying my Jerry can.This anoraky interest on my part is because when I get to Ethiopia there may be long stretches without fuel! I have a 5 litre and a 2 litre can so total of 29 litres so possibly 400 miles (29/15.5 x 216 miles)
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By now it was nearly 3 pm and I was rather hot and tired so bought a coldish Fanta and ate my breakfast doughnut by way of lunch.
Then a GSA pulled in looking very GSAish, to the point of having a spare wheel (not tyre, wheel!) strapped on!
This turned out to be Albert the Customs man from Lusaka. He was headed to his assignment in Chipata (where I was headed) and was keen we ride together. That suited me as he basically lead me at a good speed for the final 250kms, clearing the way (not that there was much to clear).
He even found me a room at his lodging at a good rate.
He told me later he has only been riding for a year and has taught himself using YouTube. He was certainly a quick and impressive learner
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Then a GSA pulled in looking very GSAish, to the point of having a spare wheel (not tyre, wheel!) strapped on!
This turned out to be Albert the Customs man from Lusaka. He was headed to his assignment in Chipata (where I was headed) and was keen we ride together. That suited me as he basically lead me at a good speed for the final 250kms, clearing the way (not that there was much to clear).
He even found me a room at his lodging at a good rate.
He told me later he has only been riding for a year and has taught himself using YouTube. He was certainly a quick and impressive learner
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I had time at my fuel conserving speeds earlier to enjoy the hilly scenery and even a beautiful river
I also passed an epic crash where two vehicles seemed to have just ripped out the Armco and destroyed themselves...an ugly sight I moved on from rapidly (there were people helping out).
And all this 580 kms moved me along a little fraction in the vastness of Africa....
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I also passed an epic crash where two vehicles seemed to have just ripped out the Armco and destroyed themselves...an ugly sight I moved on from rapidly (there were people helping out).
And all this 580 kms moved me along a little fraction in the vastness of Africa....
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Great going Simon!
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The is guys. WiFi poor here so just a brief update
Yesterday I awoke to thunderous rain...or rather I was kept awake by the thunderstorms despite all the locals saying'oh no it won't rain'.
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Yesterday I awoke to thunderous rain...or rather I was kept awake by the thunderstorms despite all the locals saying'oh no it won't rain'.
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So first order if business was to find waterproofs as I had forgotten mine
In torrential rain I found a taxi and went to a general store that was recommended.
So I was doing a Jockser look
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In torrential rain I found a taxi and went to a general store that was recommended.
So I was doing a Jockser look
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Classy hi -viz!! You'll manage to build up a sweat in those
Then back to bed for a nap as the purchase of waterproofs is a very arduous undertaking. I woke at 10 which was check out time and miraculously the rainfall had abated...a little.
So I decided to go for it and ride the 20 minutes to the Malawi border which was tedious but relatively straightforward.
Then away I went, and was already struck that Malawi seemed poorer and less developed than Zambia.
My hi Viz gear was of great interest to the lovely ladies of Malawi
From the getgo the bike has been running poorly today and I wondered whether it was down to the heavy rain or a bad tank of fuel. The bike was snatching and stuttering which is a big contrast to how smoothly it was running the previous night.
So tiring was all this that I decided to stop about 3:30 in Lilongwe and save Lake Malawi for the next day.
I decided to stay in a backpackers place and was again reminded how poor value they can be... everything was extra, including the non-functioing WiFi, and it also had the joys of a long walk for a nocturnal pee.
But it did allow me to meet an Italian group of fouuwho were Touring from South Africa where they had moved...that had an r1150GSA on a trailer and the two blokes took turns to ride it. They were heading south to Mocambique and I was tempted but it's the wrong direction and I have a bike that's not running 100%.
So.my direction remains 'North to Europe!'
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So I decided to go for it and ride the 20 minutes to the Malawi border which was tedious but relatively straightforward.
Then away I went, and was already struck that Malawi seemed poorer and less developed than Zambia.
My hi Viz gear was of great interest to the lovely ladies of Malawi
From the getgo the bike has been running poorly today and I wondered whether it was down to the heavy rain or a bad tank of fuel. The bike was snatching and stuttering which is a big contrast to how smoothly it was running the previous night.
So tiring was all this that I decided to stop about 3:30 in Lilongwe and save Lake Malawi for the next day.
I decided to stay in a backpackers place and was again reminded how poor value they can be... everything was extra, including the non-functioing WiFi, and it also had the joys of a long walk for a nocturnal pee.
But it did allow me to meet an Italian group of fouuwho were Touring from South Africa where they had moved...that had an r1150GSA on a trailer and the two blokes took turns to ride it. They were heading south to Mocambique and I was tempted but it's the wrong direction and I have a bike that's not running 100%.
So.my direction remains 'North to Europe!'
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This morning I rise at 6 and packed, managing to leave about 7:15 on a big that was really not happy, seeming to choke and stutter.
My plan was to head east to Lake Malawiand then ride the M5 up the west of the lake. And what a fabulous road it turned out to be, even with an unhappy bike
During the day I added a Total engine cleanser product to the fuel and it is true that the bike ran better this afternoon but still suffers surges and stutters and choking. I am hope it's not a choked filter but will apply my mind to the Haynes manual this evening.
Met along the faulous M5
Bridges of Malawi county
Roving catfish salesmen
And after a superb 450km ride I arrived at 13:00 and found a lovely lodge by the lake albeit with an approach track worthy of an endureo downhill section
.
Here's the view from my bed in my chalet
.
Malawi is not particularly cheap so I was glad to get this negotiated down from US$80 to $30. There's a private beach below the terrace and I have had a couple of swims this afternoon, interspersed with a ride into town to have some beans and a local staple (mealie?)
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My plan was to head east to Lake Malawiand then ride the M5 up the west of the lake. And what a fabulous road it turned out to be, even with an unhappy bike
During the day I added a Total engine cleanser product to the fuel and it is true that the bike ran better this afternoon but still suffers surges and stutters and choking. I am hope it's not a choked filter but will apply my mind to the Haynes manual this evening.
Met along the faulous M5
Bridges of Malawi county
Roving catfish salesmen
And after a superb 450km ride I arrived at 13:00 and found a lovely lodge by the lake albeit with an approach track worthy of an endureo downhill section
. Here's the view from my bed in my chalet
.Malawi is not particularly cheap so I was glad to get this negotiated down from US$80 to $30. There's a private beach below the terrace and I have had a couple of swims this afternoon, interspersed with a ride into town to have some beans and a local staple (mealie?)
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