Gael warning on the Ivory Coast

[Northern jock]

Is the route south still down the beach or is there a road now? It sounds like the whole border area has been significantly developed.

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

Simon was a little diplomatic in his reference to a rest day in the last update. In fact I've been struggling with stomach issues for about the last week which weren't getting better and I felt it unwise to head further south yesterday, particularly as it is probably the hardest days ride we would do, with fuel supply issues and high temperatures. We both started the trip with a supply of strong antibiotics for occasions like this and I started my course yesterday. They seem to be working but I felt it unwise to head off further south, when not feeling great. I've done this ride from Nouadhibou to Nouakchott a few times and it's not for the faint hearted, particularly with a small bike with limited fuel capacity. Simon is well prepared and I'm sure all will go well. I plan to rest another day and then return to Morocco, and back north.

I'll do updates here on my return journey, as will Simon, as he goes further south.

 

[Edventure]

Simon was a little diplomatic in his reference to a rest day in the last update. In fact I've been struggling with stomach issues for about the last week which weren't getting better and I felt it unwise to head further south yesterday, particularly as it is probably the hardest days ride we would do, with fuel supply issues and high temperatures. We both started the trip with a supply of strong antibiotics for occasions like this and I started my course yesterday. They seem to be working but I felt it unwise to head off further south, when not feeling great. I've done this ride from Nouadhibou to Nouakchott a few times and it's not for the faint hearted, particularly with a small bike with limited fuel capacity. Simon is well prepared and I'm sure all will go well. I plan to rest another day and then return to Morocco, and back north.

I'll do updates here on my return journey, as will Simon, as he goes further south.

Sorry to hear you're not well Jim. Take it easy on the ride back

 

[Northern jock]

Simon was a little diplomatic in his reference to a rest day in the last update. In fact I've been struggling with stomach issues for about the last week which weren't getting better and I felt it unwise to head further south yesterday, particularly as it is probably the hardest days ride we would do, with fuel supply issues and high temperatures. We both started the trip with a supply of strong antibiotics for occasions like this and I started my course yesterday. They seem to be working but I felt it unwise to head off further south, when not feeling great. I've done this ride from Nouadhibou to Nouakchott a few times and it's not for the faint hearted, particularly with a small bike with limited fuel capacity. Simon is well prepared and I'm sure all will go well. I plan to rest another day and then return to Morocco, and back north.

I'll do updates here on my return journey, as will Simon, as he goes further south.

That’s a huge disappointment after all the planning and expectation, very sorry to read that.

I hope you both have some happy miles.

 

[Posh Pete]

I'll do updates here on my return journey, as will Simon, as he goes further south.

That's really disappointing for you Jim. Sorry to hear it and hope things improve for you as you head north. On the other hand, it does mean that we now have two ride reports instead of just one! :LOL

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

That's really disappointing for you Jim. Sorry to hear it and hope things improve for you as you head north. On the other hand, it does mean that we now have two ride reports instead of just one!

Pete, Thanks for seeing the positive in the situation

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[Drumacoon Lad.]

That’s a huge disappointment after all the planning and expectation, very sorry to read that.

I hope you both have some happy miles.

Cheers, yes, it was a hard decision, but you can't mess about out here. We'd done 2,360 miles from Bilbao together. The further you go south the greater the journey back, and possibly alone. These desert rides aren't to be taken lightly.
We've been fortunate with the temperatures so far, about 10C lower than normal, and a northerly breeze, However it's forecast for around 40C in Nouakchott over next few days. I've still enjoyed the desert rides and will savour them on the way back, and collect some Sahara sand to sit next to my Namib desert sand on my mantlepiece.

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[jeffa]

Simon was a little diplomatic in his reference to a rest day in the last update. In fact I've been struggling with stomach issues for about the last week which weren't getting better and I felt it unwise to head further south yesterday, particularly as it is probably the hardest days ride we would do, with fuel supply issues and high temperatures. We both started the trip with a supply of strong antibiotics for occasions like this and I started my course yesterday. They seem to be working but I felt it unwise to head off further south, when not feeling great. I've done this ride from Nouadhibou to Nouakchott a few times and it's not for the faint hearted, particularly with a small bike with limited fuel capacity. Simon is well prepared and I'm sure all will go well. I plan to rest another day and then return to Morocco, and back north.

I'll do updates here on my return journey, as will Simon, as he goes further south.

Bugger , I hope after resting your ride home is uneventful, thanks for the ride so far. take care and safe journey home.

 

[glenn2926]

Please keep us updated on your changed journey. As has been already mentioned we now have two ride reports to keep up with.
Perhaps have another day or two resting up to let the antibiotics take effect.

 

[simondippenhall]

So I made it in to Nouakchott at about 14h00 after a pre dawn departure to beat (some of) the heat. Just recovering in a lovely AC hotel room, will post a few pics now and add some words later

 

[Posh Pete]

44 degrees! Ouch!

 

[richardbd]

Simon was a little diplomatic in his reference to a rest day in the last update. In fact I've been struggling with stomach issues for about the last week which weren't getting better and I felt it unwise to head further south yesterday, particularly as it is probably the hardest days ride we would do, with fuel supply issues and high temperatures. We both started the trip with a supply of strong antibiotics for occasions like this and I started my course yesterday. They seem to be working but I felt it unwise to head off further south, when not feeling great. I've done this ride from Nouadhibou to Nouakchott a few times and it's not for the faint hearted, particularly with a small bike with limited fuel capacity. Simon is well prepared and I'm sure all will go well. I plan to rest another day and then return to Morocco, and back north.

I'll do updates here on my return journey, as will Simon, as he goes further south.

Sorry to hear this Jim. Get well soon

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

Please keep us updated on your changed journey. As has been already mentioned we now have two ride reports to keep up with.
Perhaps have another day or two resting up to let the antibiotics take effect.

Cheers Guys, hope to get through the border tomorrow but not ride far. Hearing about the heat Simon experienced, it seems I made the right call.

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[Drumacoon Lad.]

Is the route south still down the beach or is there a road now? It sounds like the whole border area has been significantly developed.

Had missed this... Simon can give more detail, but it's been a road for some years, I did it first in 2014. What seems to have changed since then, is the provision of petrol. Simon said there were 5 about half way. I still have the scars of going into the one filling station, in 2014, half way between Nouadhibou and Nouakchott and they had no petrol. It was a very slow ride to the border that day. Again, Edventure has a story around that filling station.

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[Drumacoon Lad.]

While preparing for the ride south, that I didn't take, I syphoned fuel into my spare 2 litre container. Sadly when full, it leaked. Now what could I use to make a rubber seal Of course, a piece of old tubing, and as it happens I have a piece, and a Swiss army knife to cut it. So there's another use of the spare piece of tubing.

The syphoning was done in the basement of the hotel. On the way down, leaving Simon in the room, I joked he should check for the fire escapes. When the hotel noticed the syphoning, they didn't tell us to stop, just asked we move away from the gas cylinders, that we couldn't see in the dark corner. Note to self, don't ever syphon in underground carparks.

 

[simondippenhall]

Now I have returned to a normal operating temperature (although still in 30’s outside), a few memories of today:

I planned to start early to reduce the number of hours in the furnace. So I requested breakfast at 06h30 as the previous day. When I came down, geared up, breakfast was there none! Fortunately I had pinched a slice of pizza from Jim’s collection in the fridge and that, along with a left over piece of bread from supper, was my hurried collation before I rode off at 06h30 into the dark.

My one cardinal rule of riding in Africa is not to ride in the dark so this was a conscious decision. The streets were empty and it was a fresh 18C, but it was good to be on my way, although sadly, solo. But Jim and I had talked a lot and both felt he was making the right decision.

My main concern today was securing enough fuel and not having a puncture or a mechanical as the searing heat and lack of shade would make any of those occurrences tricky to deal with, especially solo.

So at Bou Lanuar about 70 kms into my ride I secured a 5 litre Jerry can of dodgy fuel, as an extra insurance (ion top of the 8.5 litres of extra fuel I already had in a Rotopax on the pannier frame, and elsewhere. The bloke in the above photo was a right sod who would only sell me 5 litres when all I wanted was 1 litre. Hey ho!

The plot spoiler for all those who relish the high drama of yesteryear crossings of this long desert transit: I got pump fuel from one of a selection of fuel stations around the mid point, when I had used 8 of the 10 litres in the CRF tank, and that fill got me to Nouakchott 477 miles from my start. So I didn’t use any of the various fuel reserves. I guess it’s the umbrella principle.

I had a following wind for 75% of the ride but nonetheless that translates to about 30 km per litre or in Olde English, about 80 mpg at a steady (true) 80 kph. There were quite a few speed variations as the highway surface was very poor in places and there were regular sand drifts.

I stopped about half way for a petrol refill, a cuppa tea (Mauritania style) and a pee. Other than that just a brief stop at a shady store to drink a coke and eat a loaf of bread I bought.

Throughout the ride I was drinking from my camelback and was carrying around 5 litres of water, only using 2.5 litres of that. Because the external heat eventually exceeded body temperature of 38.5C it was more comfortable to close my jacket and helmet visor. I also soaked my teeshirt in water at my fuel stop, and overall felt fairly comfortable throughout the ride.

The little 250 ran like a sewing machine, and by 14h00 I was in Nouakchott and not a lot later installed in AC coolth and comfort . That was really appreciated as rhe temperature was now firmly in the mid 40Cs and, as this erudite readership will appreciate, there ain’t no shade on a bike (BMW C1s excluded ).

To celebrate my arrival, after a cool shower and a bit of laundry I had my first proper meal of the day: a delicious cheeseburger with chips and a banana milkshake. Heavenly!

 

[richardbd]

Fabulous Simon. Take care now you’re riding on your own…

 

[simondippenhall]

So this morning after a deep 8 hour sleep and an excellent breakfast I decided to have a rest day after yesterday’s exertions…this place is lovely, got chatting at breakfast to a group of 7 blokes who turned out to be military advisors to Mauritania so that allowed a chat about the security situation…OK here but they agreed that Mali was a bit difficult and to be avoided. That is my plan anyway .

Then I got to try out a Dakar race truck…once I worked out how to clamber up to the giddy heights of the cabin. It was good to see what it’s like in there as I accidentally entered the Dakar rally course in the sand somewhere in Morocco with @Tim Cullis 20 years ago and nearly got run over by one of these!. The truck has a 500 litre fuel tank to my….10!

It’s been in tje 20s this morning which is refreshing but now at 10:30 it’s reaching 30C and heading north so I shall stay indoors. The CRF 250 is resting outside under its cover.

 

[simondippenhall]

BTW there was a typo a few posts ago….not 500 miles but kilometres….not sure how that happened. Desert fatigue I suspect . Certainly enjoying a day of not doing much before heading to Senegal via Diama

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

Further north in Nouadhibou, I finished my course of 3 Azithromycin antibiotics today. These were recommended to us, when we had our vaccinations, for stomach related issues. As per the advice from folks here and others, I'll remain in this 2 bedroom suite until I feel confident to ride safely and return to Morocco.

This morning, I popped over to the pharmacy opposite and they gave me a few things to help the stomach after antibiotics. The communications weren't great, but the hotel staff explained the system. One box(Omiz) has a single pen mark, so one a day, the next as double pen marks x 3, so 2 tablets 3 times a day and lastly the Maalox box has 3 stripes, so 1 dose 3 times a day, simples! Clearly useful for patients who can't read, as well as for me!