Gael warning on the Ivory Coast

Indeed Alisdair…especially as I already have the man and the spanner and just need the bowl and the means of disposal
I once had a lad approach me when I was doing an oil change in Togo asking for my used oil, when I explained it was used he replied that it was still a lot better than what he was using
 
I once had a lad approach me when I was doing an oil change in Togo asking for my used oil, when I explained it was used he replied that it was still a lot better than what he was using
Yes I have seen stacked bottles of used oil for sale in places like Burkina-Faso and others. No doubt my 4,000 miles use high quality synthetic 10:40 will be wisely reused
 
Getting further north has been my priority since leaving Agadir with by newly serviced bike. I booked into an Ibis in Casablanca and enjoyed the welcome drink.68013.jpg
I didn't enjoy riding down 2 steep ramps to the under ground car park and this proved to be an issue next morning. My exit was blocked by this Merc, that an entitled customer, lazily parked on the ramp.
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This cost me an hour in getting away in the morning and put at risk my getting to Spain that day. It was also raining.

Well I did make it to the ferry. Bought a ticket and had the police check. However the custom check was different. The guy didnt look at my V5 or little white card. He simply scanned my number with a small tablet, typed a few things in and told me to go. I offered the papers again and he said we were finished. I rode off, had the bike x rayed and boarded. The view of Gibraltar from the boat didn't look encouraging.

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It was raining when we arrived at Algeciras but not too heavy. However 20km from my Hotel it became a storm. The winds were manageable as they were behind me but when I turned off the motorway, these gusty winds became side winds and tricky to manage. I had a less than comfortable ride to the hotel and was glad to get into the warm that evening but on balance pleased with my progress.
 

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I'm using a very weak signal and this may have caused some additional attachments to appear. One was of the man on the ferry fighting, and losing, against his map.

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I'm now in Plasencia and had another heavy rainstorm on the way here. It underlines how unpleasant the winter weather can be up on these high Spanish plains. The forecast for tomorrow is still damp and with temperatures around 12C, so I will be adding extra layers.
 
IMG_1317.jpegSo to reflect the contrast between our two journeys, a few snaps of my leisurely progress through southern Senegal in a pleasant 30C.

Today’s dawn from my Ziguinchor balcony
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From Ziguinchor I rode west via Oussouye to Cap Skirring, through the mangrove forests. Often the roadway was badly potholed as a result of being underwater during the rainy season IMG_1306.jpeg
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My morning splash and dash brings a crowd
IMG_1311.jpegOf course the well respected mechanic who I chose to do my oil change has moved to his family compound down a long and very sandy lane 🤔. However his tools are generally well arranged and his standard of work impressed meIMG_1312.jpeg
While the oil drained I was invited to share communal lunch with the team and we had a great chat …proving to me that Payl the mechanic knows his stuff.IMG_1313.jpeg
Paul said they reckon 7,000 kms is the limit here even for a high quality synthetic oil do I have timed it well.
 
When we started I quizzed Paul about the price of thee vidange which he said was 15,000 CAF or about £20. I told him that seemed steep to me and he explained that he also included a complete valeting of the bike, checking the chain sag with me in bike etc.

I wasn’t enthusiastic about this initially but as I saw the quality of his work (and indeed he showed me a few tricks ) I came around to the idea and so once the vidange was done I left the bike with him and he took me in his quad bike to the fairly run down beach hotel I had chosen . What could possibly go wrong?

A few beach viewsIMG_1319.jpeg
 
My accomodation last night in Plasencia was good value, but it was in a pedestrian zone. I was allowed to park the bike outside to offload, but had to then move it to a bike park a quarter of a mile away. The town is a foodies delight. The streets were full of delicatessens, specialising in hams, or in this case, cheese.
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The arrangement with parking didn't help with a quick getaway this morning. After getting cold yesterday I made sure to load up with some extra layers and warmer gloves.

As I rode along I was reflecting that these bikes weren't ideally suited to motorway travel, and in winter conditions. Simon and bought them as African bikes, and they have proved their worth in this role, particularly in Simons hands. I'm particularly impressed in their load carrying ability.

I've been fortunate since leaving Casablanca to have a tail wind. This has allowed me to often cruise around 100kph, which is a boon when I have so much ground to cover. The other big benefit is, this wind being from the South, I expect it is moderating the temperatures. I did have the temperature drop to 9C today as I got to 1200 meters, but what would it have been if the wind was from the North. Simon has described running into snow on this road and I can believe it.

This road goes through wonderful scenery though, as captured by the on-board camera.
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Today was a long day in the saddle but I got to a travellers hotel just south of Vitoria-Gasteiz, Hotel Ruta de Europa and I'd recommend it.
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Great rooms, excellent restaurant and a service station. There's nothing around it, and as I said to Simon earlier, theres no town to feel guilty about not exploring. Being here places me well for reaching France by mid morning and an overnight stop in the Bordeaux area.
 

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My accomodation last night in Plasencia was good value, but it was in a pedestrian zone. I was allowed to park the bike outside to offload, but had to then move it to a bike park a quarter of a mile away. The town is a foodies delight. The streets were full of delicatessens, specialising in hams, or in this case, cheese.
View attachment 459707
The arrangement with parking didn't help with a quick getaway this morning. After getting cold yesterday I made sure to load up with some extra layers and warmer gloves.

As I rode along I was reflecting that these bikes weren't ideally suited to motorway travel, and in winter conditions. Simon and bought them as African bikes, and they have proved their worth in this role, particularly in Simons hands. I'm particularly impressed in their load carrying ability.

I've been fortunate since leaving Casablanca to have a tail wind. This has allowed me to often cruise around 100kph, which is a boon when I have so much ground to cover. The other big benefit is, this wind being from the South, I expect it is moderating the temperatures. I did have the temperature drop to 9C today as I got to 1200 meters, but what would it have been if the wind was from the North. Simon has described running into snow on this road and I can believe it.

This road goes through wonderful scenery though, as captured by the on-board camera.
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Today was a long day in the saddle but I got to a travellers hotel just south of Vitoria-Gasteiz, Hotel Ruta de Europa and I'd recommend it.
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Great rooms, excellent restaurant and a service station. There's nothing around it, and as I said to Simon earlier, theres no town to feel guilty about not exploring. Being here places me well for reaching France by mid morning and an overnight stop in the Bordeaux area.
Making good progress. How are you feeling?
 
Making good progress. How are you feeling?
Thanks Alisdair. Not feeling to bad thanks. These days are tyring, though. There's a lot of riding in keeping these 250s tipping along on a motorway. I'm in Bordeaux now, so I'll get a ferry in a couple of days. Cheers

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk
 
After the rain last night it was a relief to wake up to a dry day. I was able to take off the bike cover, on the way to breakfast, hoping the fresh breeze might dry the sheepskin cover a little. After breakfast and a fill-up I was off towards France. Happily that fresh breeze was a tailwind and we were soon cruising at a good speed. I was soon in proper Basque scenery with houses dotted on the hillsides.
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This Basque motorway between France and Spain winds its way through the lower Pyrenees. Unusual for a motorway it is a delight to ride, even on a small bike, somewhat overloaded. Riding motorways shouldn't be so much fun. With all this to concentrate on, the French border came up quickly. I had planned a stop at St Jean de Luz, an old haunt. It's like Padstow, but Basque, and no celebrity chefs.

After parking up I went for a recce of the harbour. I has a working fleet supplying fish to the local restaurants.
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I then walked up to the beach and went down to the waters edge. I must have looked a strange site in full bike gear and a contrast to the couple in towelling dressing gowns.
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It is a lovely beach but I've mostly used the smaller beaches a little to the north.
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The church is quite special and was the scene of the wedding of Louis XIV in 16XX
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Lastly I salivated over the Gateaux Basque I didn't have room to take home.

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I made it up to Bordeaux after St Jean and had a little wander around the city this evening. A view over the Garonne river as dusk approached.

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This building was the most striking image I captured in Bordeaux
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...and for the history buffs, the story behind it.
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Lastly, a street view that just has to be French.
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Great work Jim, and cultural appreciation (as is to be expected of a UKGSer.

My day was basically spent on the beach so not much to report although my travels resume tomorrow.
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Ate my veggies at lunchtime, like a good boy 😁, after a morning swim.IMG_1338.jpegIMG_1339.jpeg

It’s a bloody tough life being an adventurer on a bike and it looks like it will continue to be so 😁
 
Today I said farewell to Cao Skirring and ride north east to Elikin, where the road ends and I parked the bike under its cover in the village campenment and took a community pirogue out to Karabane Island, a truly beautiful and tranquil place.

First a sandy farewell this morning IMG_1345.jpeg
 
I was the only ‘toubab ‘ (European) on the little boat and I was sat next to the new head of the island high school IMG_1353.jpegIMG_1351.jpeg
Our transport of delight. It was bringing people and beer to the island whose main activity is fishing and cultivation amidst the mangroves
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Some views from my room on the beach IMG_1369.jpegIMG_1373.jpeg
Dry relaxing place, the local kids were wandering back from school along the beach and one stopped to tell me that she was in 1e class and her friend beside her in 2e and we had a little chat. Although tourists come here it doesn’t seem to have spoiled things (yet🙏)
 


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