Gael warning on the Ivory Coast

While Simon needs a cool beer because of the heat, I'm wearing extra layers as it gets chilly on the bike. This all comes down to having airflow clothing which works well in the desert but is not ideal when riding in 10C for a few hours, even with waterproofs. I also normally wear fingerless gloves but am now wearing my GS gloves, which of course are pretty thin.

I stopped at a large supermarket while leaving Bordeaux this morning and found wollen gloves which fits over my GS gloves, not ideal, but they helped. As it's likely to be around 1C as I arrive in Portsmouth tomorrow night I wasn't sure this combination was enough.

However, as I drew up at my hotel outside Tours this evening, I couldn't miss the large Decathelon store just opposite, so I now have a pair of their warm gloves, and a warm top, which I'll try our on the ride to Caen tomorrow.
68556.jpg

The gloves, plus the heated grips, should be fine for the Portsmouth arrival.

I decided on something French for my last evening meal of the trip, and chose a Normandy favourite, galette, in this case truffle flavoured, accompanied with cider. It was delicious.
68531.jpg

As I returned to the hotel the bike was sitting under its cover, as it has been outside innumerable hotels, in 4 different countries in the last 4 weeks. More importantly, it's been sitting there, waiting for me in the morning, to take me on to the next destination. We've done over 5,000 miles together, not bad on a little 250. Having written this, I trust it'll also be there for the last leg to Caen tomorrow.

68550.jpg
 
I was the only ‘toubab ‘ (European) on the little boat and I was sat next to the new head of the island high school View attachment 460233View attachment 460234
Our transport of delight. It was bringing people and beer to the island whose main activity is fishing and cultivation amidst the mangroves
View attachment 460235
Some views from my room on the beach View attachment 460237View attachment 460238
Dry relaxing place, the local kids were wandering back from school along the beach and one stopped to tell me that she was in 1e class and her friend beside her in 2e and we had a little chat. Although tourists come here it doesn’t seem to have spoiled things (yet🙏)
Looks a grand corner of Africa, you’ve done well to find and visit
 
So this morning I walked along the beach to join a few friendly locals on the pirogue back to the mainland
IMG_1377.jpegIMG_1378.jpegIMG_1379.jpeg
It was an uneventful trip, although as it was high tide we had to remove shoes and wade ashore in Elinkine or, in some cases, be carried ashore IMG_1382.jpeg

I took a scooter taxi from the Embarcadere back to the Campement where the CRF snoozed indisturbed IMG_1383.jpeg
Gilles had been overseeing the area. He was an interesting chap as he said that his family was Christian (as are many in the Casamance) but he was Muslim « as his family drank too much ». IMG_1384.jpeg
 
From Elinkine I ride gently back via Mlomp and Oussouye through the gorgeous mangrove swamps and paddy fields IMG_1385.jpeg
As I left Elinkine there was a platoon of armed soldiers marching along the road, a reminder that this has (and maybe remains) an area of insurrection and insecurity due to separatist guérilla forces. (No photo taken, obviously).
IMG_1386.jpeg
Soon enough I was in Ziguinchor, this time staying in a comfortable home recommended by two adventurous Canadian riders so we got to share dinner together by the river.

The house itself has rather too many cats (especially for one for whom the ideal number is Zero!).IMG_1389.jpegIMG_1390.jpeg
I have put a cover on the bike and weighted the seat area so they cannot sit on or spray the sheepskin, and have established I hope by acts of outright hostility (short of injury) that I am not their friend.
 
Noted Alisdair !

Today is a rest day in Ziguinchor so started with a moto taxi ride to a proper beard trim followed by a delicious street corner omelette with potatoes and onions in a fresh baguette. Life is good😁. A pleasant 30C at 10;30.

IMG_1392.jpegIMG_1395.jpeg
IMG_1394.jpegIMG_1396.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1394.jpeg
    IMG_1394.jpeg
    334.1 KB · Views: 14
Jim is the king of wildlife photography so I am sorry he missed the Casamance. Here’s a few of the inhabitants of the foreshore of Ile de KarabaneIMG_1368.jpegIMG_1367.jpegIMG_1360.jpeg
A crab snack
IMG_1362.jpegIMG_1364.jpeg

Tons of little crabs
 
The bike cover looked a little different yesterday morning, what was that white stuff.

68584.jpg

Well, the freezing conditions would give me a chance to try out the Decathelon gloves. The temperature remained around 1 - 2C for the first 100km towards Caen. The gloves proved to be warm enough, which was positive and made me feel better about the ride from Portsmouth.

I did make one stop before going to the ferry. I decided the 2L petrol can coule go into thd main tank. This freed up some space in the Magadans. I then managed to fit 3 bottles of Bordeaux's finest into the Magadans.

68596.jpg

There was one other bike in the queue, this pretty V7 Guzzi.

68594.jpg

The guy had popped over for a few days, visiting Mont Saint Michel and war graves. He mentioned he worked for a funeral directors and sometimes covered the Basingstoke area. I said I hoped not to see home again for quite some time.

68597.jpg

They had an efficient system for the bikes and they had the biked strapped down as soon as I got off.

The crossing was fine and we offloaded just before 10PM and I was quickly on the M27 heading for the M3. Sadly that plan was interrupted by a closure of the M27 and we ended up in a very long diversion, which ended up in Eastleigh and I joined the M3, and got home safely and was very happy to park up the bike.

I got up late today and this was the view outside. I was pleased I hadn't had this snow last night.

68634.jpg

I'll wrap this up here but may return with reflections on the overall trip. Thanks for following.
 
Today I got back on the bike and rode for a couple of hours North to Abene, a fishing village just south of the Gambian border.

It was a lovely ride for me but less so for car drivers as the road is infested with deep potholes due to the watery environment. A lot of my time and attention was spent finding a continuous like of tarmac between the morass of potholes and ensuring no oncoming vehicle wasn’t laying claim to the same piece of road!IMG_1404.jpeg

I looked in on a couple of establishments before choosing this one
IMG_1402.jpeg

IMG_1403.jpegIMG_1407.jpeg
It’s quiet and uncrowded here, not how I remember it 8 years ago…not found out yet why this is.🤔IMG_1406.jpeg
Tomorrow I will head into Gambia and put the bike in storage, flying back to the lovely UK weather late on Saturday night. Got my warm jumper and down jacket at the ready!😁
 
So today I left the village of Abene and rode gently North to The Gambia.

Before I left I breakfasted well, and gave this little fellow a postcard of a London bus, which seemed well received.
IMG_1412.jpeg
. The border crossing was one of the easiest (if not THE easiest) African border crossing I have experienced on this trip.

The major challenge was finding someone to actually stamp my passport into Gambia at the Jiboro crossing. Although it’s a major crossing there was little traffic and I had to go around knocking doors until I could find someone with the necessary stamp. He was having an elevenses chat with a colleague but eventually I found him and encouraged him to stamp my passport.

The Customs man was super helpful and at my request game me an (unheard of) 2 1/2 month passavant…which could be super helpful if I decide to return late January and ride the bike North…🤔

On arrival in Banjul area I hauled lots of stuff off the bike to bring home, consigning my trusty CRF to its secure winter lodging where it will sit next to …another UK registered CRF!
IMG_1417.jpeg
My CRF awaiting storage IMG_1418.jpeg
Left oil, chain cleaner and lube along with a Jerry can of dodgy Mauri fuel that I never binned. I also left all the tyre change stuff, spare brake pads and clutch plates…hopefully not needed on the next trip either🤞
IMG_1415.jpeg
 


Back
Top Bottom