I’d say you’re gutted
Gael warning on the Pamir Highway
- Thread starter simondippenhall
- Start date
So we set off from Erkil homestay, in no rush as we want the best weather and in lovely sunshine we head North. We crest Kyzl Art at 4260 metres and pull up to the first checkpoint, whose only function seems to be to ask us for our now defunct Tajik SIM cards (the pimply youth masquerading as a border officer says he ‘works a lot on internet’
).
Then on to the real Tajik border where the Customs guy is frustrated by the fact I only have a screen shot of our entry customs papers. I explain we entered via a closed border and eventually he settles for what I have to show him.
From here on the world changes…..the road is now a mix of snow and deep clayey mud whilst suddenly there is driving horizontal snow, too painful to ride visor up but visors fog up instantly when down.
Gary with his visor duct-taped closed is particularly affected.
For obvious reasons there are few photos here as we were grimly focused on getting through the mud and rocks.
In an excess of enthusiasm and velocity, I ran wide and into big rocks and dropped the bike
.
I took off the main panniers, placing them in the deep red mud (yuck!) and we lifted the bike together. Not ideal exercise at 4,000 metres for two 66 year olds
and we were breathing very heavily.
For the next 5 kilometres we took it easy but the recent weather had destroyed the roadway ( we subsequently saw a picture of a Unimog coming the other way that day which got pretty stuck).
As we progressed down the track, after about 5 kilometres (and, fortunately, no more falls) things improved other than the strength of the snow which increased.
At this point Gary gave up on his fogged up visor and rode with a beanie hat and his glasses, an amazing feat for 20-30 kms in appalling horizontal snow.
We met a party of Singaporeans riding the other way, the two lead riders with a death stare and arms locked on the bars. The following rider explained the first two were ‘the uncles’ and he had to mind them so I explained that what they had done so far was as nothing to the last 4-5 kms. (We stayed in touch and he told me later that the uncles had need a lot of support and picking up for the last leg).
Any way we soldiered on….every minute or so I removed a drift of snow from my visor. Gary fell back and when I doubled back he told me he needed food to keep going…at which point I produced a couple of Snickers bars and a kg of dates, which were much appreciated!
Finally we made it to Sary Tash. I have a couple of videos showing the conditions but cannot attach them. We paddled around in a muddy field to a closed homestay but then a kilometre later found an open roadhouse (the crossing road is a big trade route from China).
The landlady told us she had rooms at which point G professed his undying love for her (his original plan to soldier on to Osh defeated by the horrible conditions, a change from 10 days previously).
We filed into the cafe and 10 minutes later were joined by Brendon and Kyra, a Canadian couple on-the road for 7 years and on some classic kickstarter only machines
All had been looking good at this point. How little we knew of what lay ahead.
We settled in for the evening and were fascinated by Brendon and Kyra’s story and experiences, clouding and camping in the most remote places. They also confirmed to us that, had the army let us through at Shymat two days earlier, there was nowhere we could have stayed overnight near the Oark so it could have been a desperately cold and unpleasant affair
.
Our host to the left, the Canadian couple to the right:
Our clothes were very wet in parts as were our helmets and we had no heater so we woke to an unpleasant humidity….but a transformed view:
My bike on arrival at Sary Tash
We had a prolonged breakfast and chat whilst we waited for a thaw to start our onward trip over another 4,200 metre pass en route to Osh, where we were reliably informed the temperature would be in the high 20s/30C!
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).Then on to the real Tajik border where the Customs guy is frustrated by the fact I only have a screen shot of our entry customs papers. I explain we entered via a closed border and eventually he settles for what I have to show him.
From here on the world changes…..the road is now a mix of snow and deep clayey mud whilst suddenly there is driving horizontal snow, too painful to ride visor up but visors fog up instantly when down.
Gary with his visor duct-taped closed is particularly affected.
For obvious reasons there are few photos here as we were grimly focused on getting through the mud and rocks.
In an excess of enthusiasm and velocity, I ran wide and into big rocks and dropped the bike
.I took off the main panniers, placing them in the deep red mud (yuck!) and we lifted the bike together. Not ideal exercise at 4,000 metres for two 66 year olds
and we were breathing very heavily.For the next 5 kilometres we took it easy but the recent weather had destroyed the roadway ( we subsequently saw a picture of a Unimog coming the other way that day which got pretty stuck
).As we progressed down the track, after about 5 kilometres (and, fortunately, no more falls) things improved other than the strength of the snow which increased.
At this point Gary gave up on his fogged up visor and rode with a beanie hat and his glasses, an amazing feat for 20-30 kms in appalling horizontal snow.
We met a party of Singaporeans riding the other way, the two lead riders with a death stare and arms locked on the bars. The following rider explained the first two were ‘the uncles’ and he had to mind them so I explained that what they had done so far was as nothing to the last 4-5 kms. (We stayed in touch and he told me later that the uncles had need a lot of support and picking up for the last leg).
Any way we soldiered on….every minute or so I removed a drift of snow from my visor. Gary fell back and when I doubled back he told me he needed food to keep going…at which point I produced a couple of Snickers bars and a kg of dates, which were much appreciated!
Finally we made it to Sary Tash. I have a couple of videos showing the conditions but cannot attach them. We paddled around in a muddy field to a closed homestay but then a kilometre later found an open roadhouse (the crossing road is a big trade route from China).
The landlady told us she had rooms at which point G professed his undying love for her (his original plan to soldier on to Osh defeated by the horrible conditions, a change from 10 days previously).
We filed into the cafe and 10 minutes later were joined by Brendon and Kyra, a Canadian couple on-the road for 7 years and on some classic kickstarter only machines
All had been looking good at this point. How little we knew of what lay ahead.
We settled in for the evening and were fascinated by Brendon and Kyra’s story and experiences, clouding and camping in the most remote places. They also confirmed to us that, had the army let us through at Shymat two days earlier, there was nowhere we could have stayed overnight near the Oark so it could have been a desperately cold and unpleasant affair
.Our host to the left, the Canadian couple to the right:
Our clothes were very wet in parts as were our helmets and we had no heater so we woke to an unpleasant humidity….but a transformed view:
My bike on arrival at Sary Tash
We had a prolonged breakfast and chat whilst we waited for a thaw to start our onward trip over another 4,200 metre pass en route to Osh, where we were reliably informed the temperature would be in the high 20s/30C!
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The ride the next day to Ish was pleasant and increasingly warm as we approached Osh, clad in long johns and multiple layers of clothing and necessitated some garment shedding before we suffered 
heat stroke.
But the roads were mainly tarmac and the views attractive, a good recovery from yesterday’s traumas which had tired us both. Now we were relishing the lower altitude and increased oxygen compared with the previous days.
On arrival in Ish we went around 3 places before plumping for the excellent, Soviet style design Ish Nuru where we sprang an enjoyable rest day getting ourselves in shape for the Kyrgyzstan leg of our trip.
First order of business for me was to get 2 different SIMs to maximise coverage, then find a pharmacy for cough mixture to deal with my wracking cough , and then finally an enjoyable wander through the ancient Osh Bazaar
I had to have one of those hats!
Then back to the hotel for a little repair on the punctured tube….before concluding I would get a professional (at Zorro Moto down the street) to deal with it!
Finally it was time for a spruce up…Gary led the way and my rather woolly beard was to be next
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heat stroke.But the roads were mainly tarmac and the views attractive, a good recovery from yesterday’s traumas which had tired us both. Now we were relishing the lower altitude and increased oxygen compared with the previous days.
On arrival in Ish we went around 3 places before plumping for the excellent, Soviet style design Ish Nuru where we sprang an enjoyable rest day getting ourselves in shape for the Kyrgyzstan leg of our trip.
First order of business for me was to get 2 different SIMs to maximise coverage, then find a pharmacy for cough mixture to deal with my wracking cough , and then finally an enjoyable wander through the ancient Osh Bazaar
I had to have one of those hats!
Then back to the hotel for a little repair on the punctured tube….before concluding I would get a professional (at Zorro Moto down the street) to deal with it!
Finally it was time for a spruce up…Gary led the way and my rather woolly beard was to be next
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The rest day was nicely topped off by a birthday barbecue for Kyra at Zhukov’s Gurst House, a real hangout for RTW and other adventure motorcyclists.
Staz the host tends the BBQ
Not for vegetarians!
A tooled up Tenere 1200 ridden by Kevin from Minnesota, a former pro racer. Note the supplemental fuel tanks below the panniers and the substantial tool rolls. He is en route to Vladivostok.
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Staz the host tends the BBQ
Not for vegetarians!
A tooled up Tenere 1200 ridden by Kevin from Minnesota, a former pro racer. Note the supplemental fuel tanks below the panniers and the substantial tool rolls. He is en route to Vladivostok.
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I would imagine the Yak mainly eats grasses which won’t break down much on their journey through the digestive system meaning the end result , when dried, will be similar to peat or those straw briquettes.
Glad you made it through to Sary Tash Simon - and on to Osh. Don’t say I didn’t warn you about the mud and the snow coming down from the border!
I hate to think of the weight of the Tenere, never mind the effort to get it on the centre stand
So the next day started with a relaxed planning session over breakfast
We set off at
A leisurely pace, filtering through the thick and dusty traffic around Osh before the road and beautiful hills opened up before us.
Then Gary said to me (over the Sena, fortunately working again) that he felt a sting in his neck. I looked but could not see anything so we continued. A couple of minutes later he complained of tiredness and pulled over, then collapsed off his (now stationary) bike.
He said he could not breathe, had tunnel vision and was going into anaphylaxis shock. First I doused him with water and then managed to get a passing motorist to stop and, using my limited Russian, got him to call an ambulance which arrived 15 minutes later (during which time G was laid out, no shade available but with my hat on and regularly soaked with water).
The ambulance crew arrives:
We had quite a job lifting G (105 kgs) into the ambulance but it was achieved and off he went to Jalal Abad 20 kms away.
Now it was time to sort his bike out, which meant getting it into this lorry. Fortunately he had a plank (but only marginally wider than the dr650 tyre
).
Somehow we did it and this rather agricultural truck, closely followed by me, would make the trip to a transport depot outside Jalal Abad where a ramp made unloading easier.
Once I unloaded G’s bike I ride to the City Hospital where I tracked down Gary in a ward, being well cared for (and complaining of hunger, which I took to be a good sign!)
So I end tiff and got us both a plate of rice and we ‘dined’ on the bedside - I used the adjacent bed until a new arrival ejected me
.
Then out in search of the best hotel in town where I checked in, then went to collect G’s motorcycle and here you see them reunited. G got discharged and came to the hotel, customary ebullience slightly (and only temporarily!
) reduced.
Memo to self: pack an EpiPen or two when you travel! I have a ballpoint pen but don’t fancy doing a tracheotomy
Sadly this gorgeous production was not for us.
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We set off at
A leisurely pace, filtering through the thick and dusty traffic around Osh before the road and beautiful hills opened up before us.
Then Gary said to me (over the Sena, fortunately working again) that he felt a sting in his neck. I looked but could not see anything so we continued. A couple of minutes later he complained of tiredness and pulled over, then collapsed off his (now stationary) bike.
He said he could not breathe, had tunnel vision and was going into anaphylaxis shock. First I doused him with water and then managed to get a passing motorist to stop and, using my limited Russian, got him to call an ambulance which arrived 15 minutes later (during which time G was laid out, no shade available but with my hat on and regularly soaked with water).
The ambulance crew arrives:
We had quite a job lifting G (105 kgs) into the ambulance but it was achieved and off he went to Jalal Abad 20 kms away.
Now it was time to sort his bike out, which meant getting it into this lorry
. Fortunately he had a plank (but only marginally wider than the dr650 tyre
).
Somehow we did it and this rather agricultural truck, closely followed by me, would make the trip to a transport depot outside Jalal Abad where a ramp made unloading easier.
Once I unloaded G’s bike I ride to the City Hospital where I tracked down Gary in a ward, being well cared for (and complaining of hunger, which I took to be a good sign!)
So I end tiff and got us both a plate of rice and we ‘dined’ on the bedside - I used the adjacent bed until a new arrival ejected me
.Then out in search of the best hotel in town where I checked in, then went to collect G’s motorcycle and here you see them reunited. G got discharged and came to the hotel, customary ebullience slightly (and only temporarily!
) reduced.Memo to self: pack an EpiPen or two when you travel! I have a ballpoint pen but don’t fancy doing a tracheotomy
Sadly this gorgeous production was not for us.
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You wouldn't want him as a lucky charm 
Not a good start to a day!
As well as an epi pen might be worth carrying some over the counter anti histamines, they can help with less dramatic reactions. Probably get some in a chemist there, just say hay fever or allergic reaction and they should give you some
As well as an epi pen might be worth carrying some over the counter anti histamines, they can help with less dramatic reactions. Probably get some in a chemist there, just say hay fever or allergic reaction and they should give you some
Really enjoyable and inspiring, ride safe Simon
Alasdair: that’s the first thing we did before we left today (on what proved an epic ride, over a mountain (rightly said to be impassable to vehicles) - we have just got in at 9 pm now and I am knackered
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Did our Gazza not know he was sensitive to bites?
Either way, you dont do by halves
Fair play to your both
Either way, you dont do by halves
Fair play to your both
We settled in for the evening and were fascinated by Brendon and Kyra’s story and experiences, clouding and camping in the most remote places. They also confirmed to us that, had the army let us through at Shymat two days earlier, there was nowhere we could have stayed overnight near the Oark so it could have been a desperately cold and unpleasant affair.
Our host to the left, the Canadian couple to the right:
Kira and Brendon are @adventurehaks on Instagram
I posted this elsewhere but worth putting here, good for seeing the weather systems moving around where you are especially if you zoom out to see a big region. You can select wind or temperature or rain etc.
www.predictwind.com
What PredictWind Forecast · PredictWind
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Ha ha that little island of Uzbekistan you refer to caused me some issues when I was there in 2014. I screwed up big style, left Kyrgyzstan and got to the Uzbek border without realising it was Uzbekistan. Having already passed through Uzbekistan and therefore used up my one entry visa the border guards wouldn't let me in. Fortunately Kyrgyzstan was visa free so they let me back in, laughing their heads off at the stupid English man. Good job no visa was required or I could have been stuck in no mans land forever!Thanks all for your interest.
Now - where were we?
Ah yes, the leisurely breakfast and it seemed that overnight Richie (Rachid in reality) had reflected and conferred with family and concluded that it might not be the wisest thing to throw in his lot with an unknown Irishman and a Californian
So after many farewells and selfies and the usual bits and bobs we were on our way…to a gas station (after Gary had to renew a running repair of his helmet which had lost a visor fixing and was loose).
Buying petrol is challenging here even if cheap as they want to charge you before you have filled and we don’t know how much we need…so it usually takes one of us negotiating inside with the cashier while the other (connected by Sena when charged!) tries to fill up.
By this stage we are approaching 11 with a long day ahead to Batken where we will attempt to cross into Tajikistan. There is the minor manner of the Kyrg and Tajiks being at loggerheads with the border having been closed for some time. What could possibly go wrong?
We stop for morning coffee which morphs into a delicious lunch of samsa freshly cooked.
The rain is falling and we out in waterproofs which attracts a lot of local kids
Our route is an interesting one and we have to be careful to avoid a little island of Uzbekistan in our path (as we aren’t allowed to cross it).
We plug in and start to get tantalising views of the mountains guarding Tajikistan
There is an incredibly strong wind blowing us all over the shop, to Gary’s surprise as a larger gentleman.
We eventually get to Batken the last town before the border and get diverted into a network of mud farm lanes to bypass some roadworks.
Because of this we bypass the main gas station and both decide (foolishly) not to stop before the border at a grubby little station.
Although the Kyrgyzstan border is closed, we have learned that a good travel agent can get you as a foreign tourist onto the the Foreign ministry list to allow out of the country there.
So we roll up about 3 excitedly, only to find only one of us is on the list. Gary’s phone doesn’t seem to have signal but I manage to get a call to Erali the agent who arranged it and after much to and fro we are allowed in to a completely deserted but modern border post, complete with shuttered Duty Free supermarket. No photos for obvious reasons, we were on best behaviour because the alternative to this crossing was a 3 day trek around and into Uzbekistan.
Guards speak no English but call a local lady who speaks good English who says the
guards need
1. Passport- check
2. Vehicle Registration card (a little plastic card)
Also, she says, “we must show the guards are most secret hidden places but they are not allowed to touch”
I ask here if we are going to be body searched???!!
It seems fortunately they only want us to open our panniers and they really don’t look.
However Gary cannot find his Vehicle Registration Card which he last saw when he entered Kyrgyzstan 3 days before so for 30 minutes there is a long series of phone calls to the other border post/ asking agent about using the Power of Attorney and Gary is very concerned how we will get the bike back to Kazakh without the Registration Document.
So a complete search of everything Gary owns ensues:
No sign of the document and we (or he) are facing a significant obstacle to leaving Kyrgyzstan.
Then suddenly he checks his passport and there it is, neatly inside, which the border officer had had for some time.
We ride off through the gravelly no man’s land with keen anticipation of visiting Tajikistan…and turn the corner to another large and deserted border station with its gates securely locked and no one in evidence.
I spot a side gate which is ajar and walk through calling out - and a sentry emerges from his guard post at the far end where the gate to Tajikistan lies. He looked bemused and went off to find someone.
A tall and imposing senior officer emerged and shook our hands and said: Border Closed - Nyet Nyet Nyet!
He had little English so called his daughter on his phone who in fluent English told us: Border Closed for many years: YOU CANNOT ENTER.
We argued at length that I had a visa and Gary did not need one , only to come up again with an emphatic: NYET!
We called Erali again who talked to the senior officer and also got the Nyet answer. As a Kyrgyzstan citizen Erali had no standing. It seemed that he had not been asked when he actually got somone INTO Tajikistan as opposed to out of Kyrgyzstan
So it looked like that horrible wind-battered ride across bare steppes faced us again, to get back to Osh and then start again through Uzbekistan. It was already 3.30 pm and we resolved to stay in the last town we had passed, Batken, as we were tired.
We walked through the pedestrian gate to our bikes when we heard a cry of “Wait!”
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.
Loving the report which brings back some great memories. You'll love the Pamir Highway especially if you detour off and do the Wakkan Corridor and the Bartang Valley. The Bartang rates as one of my best rides ever. Good luck.
Undeterred by his near death experience the previous day, Gary was keen we try the road from Jalal Abad to Kazarman. All our contacts had said it (and particularly the high Kalmada pass) was not passable at present.
As always we set off late (
) but in the understanding that we would turn back if we couldn’t progress. I had no wish to spend a night at altitude in sub zero temperatures.
It was a gnarly ride with many many herds of sheep and cows to cross, this being spring transhumance.
About 3:30 pm I was thinking it might be time to turn back, and not long later we met a massive landslide.
As we pondered, a group of Kyrgyz riders on small trail bikes arrived …we had bet them earlier that afternoon .
Without hesitation they formed themselves into a little team and manhandled their bikes over the big Obstacle.
Then to our delight they - or rather, their leader known to them as Master- rode and towed our bikes over the slide too!
Now we were committed as we were incapable of getting our bikes back over the landslide!
Over the coming kilometres we met 3 or 4 massive areas of winter snow. The Kyrgyz team regarded each obstacle as simply a challenge! Using ropes, daring, skill and youthful energy they got us all over the fearsome obstacles.
Not showing here is the massive drop to the left which meant one slide could result in disaster!
5 of the Kyrgyz who saved our day!
They overcame even this snowfield!
Following the last snow passage, Gary had lost a foot peg bolt…but The Master managed to use a spanner locked into the sump guard to keep the foot peg useable!
After they got through all this, we stopped about 6.30 down by the river where tea was brewed on a fire and we had a massive picnic (to which we contributed dates and tinned tuna).
Then as dark came we parted and soon found a super comfortable Homestay in Kazarman.
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As always we set off late (
) but in the understanding that we would turn back if we couldn’t progress. I had no wish to spend a night at altitude in sub zero temperatures.It was a gnarly ride with many many herds of sheep and cows to cross, this being spring transhumance.
About 3:30 pm I was thinking it might be time to turn back, and not long later we met a massive landslide.
As we pondered, a group of Kyrgyz riders on small trail bikes arrived …we had bet them earlier that afternoon .
Without hesitation they formed themselves into a little team and manhandled their bikes over the big Obstacle.
Then to our delight they - or rather, their leader known to them as Master- rode and towed our bikes over the slide too!
Now we were committed as we were incapable of getting our bikes back over the landslide!
Over the coming kilometres we met 3 or 4 massive areas of winter snow. The Kyrgyz team regarded each obstacle as simply a challenge! Using ropes, daring, skill and youthful energy they got us all over the fearsome obstacles.
Not showing here is the massive drop to the left which meant one slide could result in disaster!
5 of the Kyrgyz who saved our day!
They overcame even this snowfield!
Following the last snow passage, Gary had lost a foot peg bolt…but The Master managed to use a spanner locked into the sump guard to keep the foot peg useable!
After they got through all this, we stopped about 6.30 down by the river where tea was brewed on a fire and we had a massive picnic (to which we contributed dates and tinned tuna).
Then as dark came we parted and soon found a super comfortable Homestay in Kazarman.
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After a good and well needed rest in our Homestay (where we arrived at 9 pm) in Kazarman we set off to ride to Ak Tal, where we would turn North to access the fabulous Song Kul Lake.
We felt the need for tea and stopped to talk to a lady watering the verge who invited us in for tea, delicious fresh bread and jam and a chance to meet 3 of her 5 kids (she was 33, her husband 37)
I used the last of my London postcards as gifts to the kids which were very well received…I need to order some more! And Gary got a million photos of the kids and even the mother sat on his motorcycle. So a visit which met our lunch needs and was obviously enjoyable for them (and the money I slipped her was also not refused, which is good).
At Ak Tal we refuelled from jerrycans as the lavish Euro priced pump didn’t actually function
.
Then we sought out a welder, noted on iOverlander, who made short work of fixing G’s foot peg by welding in a new screw/bolt.
At this point it was approaching 6 pm and we have done 120 kms or so of trail. I was tired and keen to rest, but G with complete disregard of our rules of engagement just said he wanted to continue do the further 50 kms of trail over the 3,000+ metre pass to the lake.
Seething inside, I tagged along at my own pace. When you don’t get going until 11 or 11h30 it’s hard to get to your destination at a sensible time. Although evenings are light here until 8.30 or so, as a morning person my energy levels flag and I prefer to relax over a cuppa or beer at that time rather than trying to spot major ruts in shadowy and muddy canyons.
Anyway I made it and the place was magnificent (as it would have been the next day, if we had stopped when I wished to)
.
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) in Kazarman we set off to ride to Ak Tal, where we would turn North to access the fabulous Song Kul Lake.We felt the need for tea and stopped to talk to a lady watering the verge who invited us in for tea, delicious fresh bread and jam and a chance to meet 3 of her 5 kids (she was 33, her husband 37)
I used the last of my London postcards as gifts to the kids which were very well received…I need to order some more! And Gary got a million photos of the kids and even the mother sat on his motorcycle. So a visit which met our lunch needs and was obviously enjoyable for them (and the money I slipped her was also not refused, which is good
).At Ak Tal we refuelled from jerrycans as the lavish Euro priced pump didn’t actually function
.Then we sought out a welder, noted on iOverlander, who made short work of fixing G’s foot peg by welding in a new screw/bolt.
At this point it was approaching 6 pm and we have done 120 kms or so of trail. I was tired and keen to rest, but G with complete disregard of our rules of engagement just said he wanted to continue do the further 50 kms of trail over the 3,000+ metre pass to the lake.
Seething inside, I tagged along at my own pace. When you don’t get going until 11 or 11h30 it’s hard to get to your destination at a sensible time. Although evenings are light here until 8.30 or so, as a morning person my energy levels flag and I prefer to relax over a cuppa or beer at that time rather than trying to spot major ruts in shadowy and muddy canyons
.Anyway I made it and the place was magnificent (as it would have been the next day, if we had stopped when I wished to)
.
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