Gael Warnings in West Africa.

I'm loving this ride report especially after having done the trip albeit a few years ago now. There's nothing like treating yourself to a bit of luxury after a few days of roughing it!

The Ghana crossing should be a lot easier than your previous ones Simon.
 
It seems I was lucky in my timing of passing through Djenne in the Niger delta of Mali 10 days ago as these 2 Belgians got arrested travelling between Djenne and Mopti and police seemingly now prohibiting motos in certain areas:
https://www.voaafrique.com/amp/mali-arrestation-deux-belges/4238658.html?__twitter_impression=true

I Checked with several police on my way up there and they were very relaxed so it may be these 2 were out in the bush somewhere.




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Thanks Edventure.

I have some concerns about the Ghana entry (which I will do after finding out if I can get the Cameroon visa in Lome) as I have no carnet so will either have to smooth talk my way in or leave a deposit!


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The tone of my room is lowered by the Chinese laundry look
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and some dodgy ‘artwork ‘
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Thanks Rachael. A long day with lots of piste, some sandy, and some mechanical issues. A bit knackered but will update the blog tomorrow.
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And it continues to be rather warm!
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It hasbeen a tiring couple of days but with real progress despite electronic issues with the bike.
Yesterday I left Tenkedogo in Burkina Faso and headed south for Togo.

There was a real paucity of petrol stations and I began to get anxious about fuel supplies despite the comfort blanket of my 5 litre jerrycan
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I keep reminding myself that with this I have almost a 500 km range...But I do need to remember the cardinal rule of refuelling as I leave even if it means going back into town rather than trust there will be duel en route.

When I did finally find fuel stations, several were out of essence! The one that had was swarming with little bikes - one if whose owners told me that I was in danger of taking all the fuel with my big tank!

But I managed to jockey my way I to position and got my 16 litres


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At one point I came to a whole line of lorries and cars and even motos were stopped. But it wasn't the border but a recent crash and everyone was patiently waiting for it to be cleared.

I pulled off to find a way through and surprised myself with the complete absence of Servo assistance to the brakes.

So I stopped worrying about fuel and moved onto brakes. Resolution: consult the uk GSer fountain of knowledge that evening!

The road all that morning had been very bad with lots of rutted and sandy pistes where extensive roadworks were going on. But I could see no signs of physical damage despite the rough going.

So I kept on going, honing my observation skills in the growing heat. I spent over an hour navigating the confusing Burkina Togo frontier checkpoint and was welcomed into Togo - my VTE visa from Benin worked again (as it did in Burkina). Interesting that no one asked about driver’s license or insurance- again! The official issuing my 1 month laisser passer (an expensive 7000CFA or €10) was more concerned with fixing his stapler which he failed to do over a 10 minute period!

Despite all this Idid. It manage to return my BF laisser passer so that's a second country (along with Mali) that my Moto has not officially exited.

Sorry for absence of photos but I was was concentrating on my riding and kept going until Sokode in Togo where I met Emanuel, a young Togolese who directed me to the agreeable if pricey Hotel Central which, being Africa, was actually on outskirts of town . I got a family size rondavel with air con and managed to negotiate the price down to 30€ including a good breakfast.

Apart from the dirt roads in the morning (and some tussles with wet tarmac in an attempt to avoid deep sand) it was a great ride with a lot of mountain bends and good to see hills and increased jungle




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Today I put in a substantial ride, some 400 kms this morning in excellent Togolese mountain roads...It was fabulous!
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Buoyed by my flask of sweet black coffee I had pinched at breakfast, I decided to skip a meat snack at 11 (photo to follow, internet seems to have faded!)



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Almost everywhere I have been on this trip you see wood for sale by the road as it is the standard cooking fuel. But In the mountains here in Togo charcoal is a major business and the roads are lined with huge bags of it
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The road gets better and better
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But despite this the verges and ditches have lots of destroyed cars and lorries which clearly have had head-on collision

There are also lots of shedded loads...I think this is cotton
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The rest of the load along with the truck was in a culvert 800 metres back with lots of people gathered around.


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So I make excellent progress and am in Lome at lunchtime

I meet Didier the French mechanic at Togo Toni KTM and agree I will bring the GS over in the morning to see if we can sort the servo problem.

And as an itinerant Irishman who was brought up by the sea

I do like to be beside the seaside...
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Even if the waves and current look threatening IMG_9336.JPG




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Will you stop posting,sunny,warm,inviting pictures..
Some people over here are in an icey grip with snow around...
Keep it going though Simon...
 
Well I got what I deserved...A poor night's sleep as even with the fan going full tilt it was uncomfortably warm.
So you can't have it all!

Off to Togo Toni shortly to see if the brake servo can be fixed or Bypassed. 🤞🏼


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Thanks Barak. It's been a great morning. Got to Togo Toni KTm for 0800, riding along by the beautiful beach.

Didier the French mechanic spent and hour trying to find the fault (my Haynes manual earned its keep with its wiring diagrams.!)
.We then concluded a servectomy was the only way forward so after 3 hours the bike was good as gold with powerful brakes but minus the annoying servo sounds

All this done in a clean and well equipped KTM workshop, brake fluid all replaced after the system (S) were purged.

And I was pleasantly surprised when all he wanted in payment was 20,000 CFA (€30)!

Now to pursue the Cameroon visa before I head for Ghana.


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