Gear shift adjustment

Flaming T

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Bought some new boots recently and they are much thicker than the old ones. As such, I struggled to get under the shifter to change gear.

I have rotated the toe piece to its highest setting but would prefer it to be a bit higher. I have searched YouTube on the subject but to no avail.

I am probably missing something fairly simple here :blast so am turning to the greater good for advice :bow. How can I adjust the gear shifter upwards to give more clearance? :nenau

Many thanks in advance.
 
Bought some new boots recently and they are much thicker than the old ones. As such, I struggled to get under the shifter to change gear.

I have rotated the toe piece to its highest setting but would prefer it to be a bit higher. I have searched YouTube on the subject but to no avail.

I am probably missing something fairly simple here :blast so am turning to the greater good for advice :bow. How can I adjust the gear shifter upwards to give more clearance? :nenau

Many thanks in advance.

undo the 2 locking nuts at each end of the bar and just twist the bar, it will move up and down, just find the correct position and tighten the nuts.
 
Awesome.... thanks guys. I’ll give that a go.
 
Adjustment seems necessary with adventure type boots on the lc,
Easily done as others explained,
Getting the pivot point to change without lifting off the peg can be difficult with stronger boots, i had to lift slightly for downshifts and got used to it,
 
Bike Model

Having just bought some new Sidi 2 Adventure boots for off road protection riding my R1250 GSA, and being a size 13, and having fully adjusted the gear lever to max, does anyone know anything else that can be done to help gain some distance between the footpegs and shift lever?
 
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Having just bought some new Sidi 2 Adventure boots for off road protection riding my R1250 GSA, and being a size 13, and having fully adjusted the gear lever to max, does anyone know anything else that can be done to help gain some distance between the footpegs and shift lever?

Lower or adjustable foot pegs will also help. I have the BMW adjustable ones fitted, which have the sprung loaded rubbers to stop your boots getting chewed up.
 
If adjusting the gear linkage rod, once the locking nuts are tightened, make sure it still has a little rotation. If it is locked against each ball joint, it will make gear changes stiffer.
 
Might be a tip for beaver there. :D

The thread won't go through until it hits the ball... it will be stopped short as it will be a blind hole??..

ok.. just re-reading this... I'm now thinking you mean if your get them out of line and they are tight angularly to each other... yes.. keep them in line :)
 
The thread won't go through until it hits the ball... it will be stopped short as it will be a blind hole??..

ok.. just re-reading this... I'm now thinking you mean if your get them out of line and they are tight angularly to each other... yes.. keep them in line :)

Correct
 
Thanks for all your advice and suggestions folks, I have seen on another forum that when adjusting the gear linkage (left and right hand threads), when they are fully adjusted, some riders have cut 5mm off each end to further extend/raise the gear lever, anyone heard of this? As by doing this, is seems to allow a fair bit of extra adjustment of the gear linkage.
 
Thanks for all your advice and suggestions folks, I have seen on another forum that when adjusting the gear linkage (left and right hand threads), when they are fully adjusted, some riders have cut 5mm off each end to further extend/raise the gear lever, anyone heard of this? As by doing this, is seems to allow a fair bit of extra adjustment of the gear linkage.

Seen that also, but if it was me, I would buy a secondhand rod to play around with, and keep original just in case you sell the bike later, you can put it back to stock.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-R120...ctor-Rod-Linkage-Link-R-1200-GS-/333264106964



23418526735
Selector rod part number for just the rod 37 euros from BMW.
 


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