Gearbox out........ What next?

  • Thread starter Thread starter BrianR
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BrianR

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Chaps

The 1100 is in bits and looks very odd and short indeed. Rear sub frame off , final drive off (again), swing arm off, gearbox off, clutch out.

The clutch plate looked very beaten up and was 4.41mm thick, so it needs sorting. I am very surprised how easy these things are to work on. We have the odd issue with BMW picking odd size sockets and hex drives, but all in all it came apart quiet easily.
I will let you know if I ever get it back together.

On my last trip the clutch started to slip under very heavy load. I was very relived in one way that I had no oil contamination what so ever in the clutch area so no seal replacements.

Now, the dilemma. Should I get the gearbox overhauled whilst it’s out? And if I should who could do it?. There is no way on earth I messing around with it myself. So if you chaps can point me in the right direction it would be appreciated.


I have also found a chap in Germany who can provide throttle body repair kits. It’s a little awkward getting funds to him (via international transfer which is expensive) but I have ordered two sets and will let you know what turns up.

Thanks in advance

BrianR
 
well, where to start!
Was there something in particular that maes you think the boix is in need of rebuild??
IIRC motoworks do exchange recon boxes, which may be a better deal than rebuilding your own....
I know some earlier 1100s had dodgy boxes, may be worth doing if this is the case here, I suppose!
As for lack of oil comtamination, thats good, but whilst its in bits, for the price of a few oil seals, I would be tempted to change them anyway, depends on the mileage the bike has done, but with it in bits I would be tempted anyway!
also the neutral indicator switch is handilt located at the back of the box and if you have noticed any problems with neutral light not coming on (when in netral, of course:augie, or being "lazy", might be wrth changing this whlist you have easy access to it....not cheap tho':blast

good luck with rebuild, would be good to see fotos of your progress with it
 
the story so far

Thanks for the contacts russ996duke

The box has been fine. A few times it kinda got stuck in first gear on slow downhill’s but only twice in my ownership. The bike has done 37k miles on the clock, but I think its done more. I have had it for 4 months and 5K miles and taken it to Morocco in that time.

I have bought all the seals ready to install them, So might take your advice and do the engine seal while its in bits. Mind you I have not taken of the flywheel yet. Those five bolts are a sod to move. Anyone got any tips on getting them off

I have had no problems with the neutral light, The gear selection indicator sometimes reads 1 when in neutral but that does not worry me very much.

I will post some pics in the next day or two

Jobs done to date
Final drive replaced (with new unit…… god expensive or what)
1150 Aventuer tank purchased
All new bearings in bendy bits of the drive train
Front brake switch replaced

Things to-do
Clutch replacement (part way there)
Throttle bodies rebuilt
New shocks
Rear subframe strengthened
Panniers (Verns favourite at the moment)
New discs and pads all round
New throttle cables


Engine seems sound so leaving that well alone.

BrianR
 
So might take your advice and do the engine seal while its in bits. Mind you I have not taken of the flywheel yet.

If it's not leaking leave well alone. I've known people do as your thinking - Fit new crank seals while it's apart and they leak, where as the old seal wasn't leaking .
 
If it ain't broke don't fix it...especially if it's an M97 (i.e. post 1996) box; whilst they are not problem free they are less prone to problems than the earlier ones.

Scriminger Engineering is the place in the UK for gearbox overhauls. A lot won't touch them. I bought a used one from Motorworks to update the M96 box in my '96RS when it needs it.
 
Gear box

If this is an 1100 have a lok at the clutch actuating arm on the top of the gear box, clean it and grease it, if this siezes up major dismanteling job to do a silly bit of greasing. A mayte had this anfd it all had to come off much as you have now apart from taking out the gear box so spend a minute and have a look.
Dave ( I hate christmas) GS
 
Can you PM me the details you have regarding your German chappie who can get TB overhaul kits please.

Stewart
 
Thanks for the contacts russ996duke

The box has been fine. A few times it kinda got stuck in first gear on slow downhill’s but only twice in my ownership. The bike has done 37k miles on the clock, but I think its done more. I have had it for 4 months and 5K miles and taken it to Morocco in that time.

I have bought all the seals ready to install them, So might take your advice and do the engine seal while its in bits. Mind you I have not taken of the flywheel yet. Those five bolts are a sod to move. Anyone got any tips on getting them off

I have had no problems with the neutral light, The gear selection indicator sometimes reads 1 when in neutral but that does not worry me very much.

I will post some pics in the next day or two

Jobs done to date
Final drive replaced (with new unit…… god expensive or what)
1150 Aventuer tank purchased
All new bearings in bendy bits of the drive train
Front brake switch replaced

Things to-do
Clutch replacement (part way there)
Throttle bodies rebuilt
New shocks
Rear subframe strengthened
Panniers (Verns favourite at the moment)
New discs and pads all round
New throttle cables


Engine seems sound so leaving that well alone.

BrianR

jeez, mate thats an awful lot of work to do on a recently acquired bike....hope you bought it cheap!
St.eptoe reckons leave the seals alone if they seem ok...he does know all about these bikes so i would say his advice is good to follow....
 
Money Pit.....who knows

Your right Russ a lot of work.

To be honest most of it is because I want to do it for piece of mind. This thing has got to carry me and "enjoyment control" (wife) thirty odd thousand miles in strange countries. I did get it cheep (very cheep) if I bought an expensive one I would still be doing the same thing.
I have never had a BM and I’m impressed how easy things are to work on. My other bike (aprillia) I would not even know where to start.

I like the 1100 dead simple and robust, that final drive lost most of its oil and still went 300 miles to get us home from Morocco.

BrianR
 
dilemma over

Thanks chaps yet again.

Upshot is. I am going to leave the oil seal as is and have the gearbox looked at.

Next of course is shocks...... but that’s another post


Thanks all...... good job

Brain
 
Exploded Views

Some pics of it all

SANY0110s.jpg
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SANY0115s.jpg
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SANY0121s.jpg
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What a cock about to post Pics, Emailed them to myself, went to the ISP website , logged on to get a web address for each pic.....lol must be an easy way

anyone tell me how to do it simply

Brian

edit

The bloody things where there on the preview...... I will try again
 
Last edited:
create a photobucket account... upload them to that and then link directly. - http://photobucket.com/

once you have uploaded you will see four options for the image - the one i use is IMG code - looks like this [.IMG]http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/motobiker/riser1.jpg[/IMG.]

which when copied into the txt field becomes this

riser1.jpg
 
create a photobucket account... upload them to that and then link directly. - http://photobucket.com/

once you have uploaded you will see four options for the image - the one i use is IMG code - looks like this [.IMG]http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/motobiker/riser1.jpg[/IMG.]

Like Tony says, Photobucket or Flickr.

Much easier than the attachment option on this site and much less restriction on image size etc.

cheers
Matt
 
double check ye torque settings on yer pivot bolts....:augie

waggle the swing arm up and down so to let the arm pivot bolt reach correct torque setting. (keep checkin the settings it will alter as it settles in)

locktight the left pivot bolt ,and when ye have set it at corect torque .
It will help when ye tighten ye locking nut coz itll move less..(dont forget to mark the pivot bolt so ye can tell if its moved or not)

incorrect tightness will crack ye gearbox....trust me...

ugg
 


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