Get The Sandwiches Ready - GSA Rear Wheel Collapse

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JohnnyBoxer said:
Checked the BMW service manual for 1150 GS
Definitely no mention of single use or even to re loctite
Just torque up to 40nM

I wonder why the WC only go to 24nM and to discard bolts every time you work on the caliper

Must be progress I guess
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Doesn't the 1150 use 10mm screws - the LC uses 8mm. That would be one reason for the lower torque figure.
 
After reading this, I went and checked my bike ahead of the trip to Spain in a week or so.

Cleaned the calipers and pads/pins etc
Removed the copper slip from the front calliper bolts and replaced without thread-lock

For the rear, it was possible to remove the pads without removing the carrier bolts but because of reading this I wanted it off to check, they had been previously threadlocked. I cleaned, reapplied lock and torqued them up, I see the risk of them coming out as pretty slim.
Whether the rear calliper being the cause of Jools’ accident is unclear esp if he triple checked it all.

Could some debris have been run over and flicked into the rear wheel, taking out a few spokes?
 
Popell said:
After reading this, I went and checked my bike ahead of the trip to Spain in a week or so.

Cleaned the calipers and pads/pins etc
Removed the copper slip from the front calliper bolts and replaced without thread-lock

For the rear, it was possible to remove the pads without removing the carrier bolts but because of reading this I wanted it off to check, they had been previously threadlocked. I cleaned, reapplied lock and torqued them up, I see the risk of them coming out as pretty slim.
Whether the rear calliper being the cause of Jools’ accident is unclear esp if he triple checked it all.

Could some debris have been run over and flicked into the rear wheel, taking out a few spokes?
Click to expand...

Why would you remove them if you knew they were one use only? They were probably fine the way they were.
 
I see mentioned that the screws holding the caliper to the housing are one-time use only.

In my version of the DVD there is no mentioning of renewing the bolts.
Can anyone enlighten me at what time the replacing-the-bolts started?
 
knutk said:
I see mentioned that the screws holding the caliper to the housing are one-time use only.

In my version of the DVD there is no mentioning of renewing the bolts.
Can anyone enlighten me at what time the replacing-the-bolts started?
Click to expand...

Ask a BMW dealer maybe
They will have a service bulletin record
 
New caliper bolts are ALOC type (Locking Compound Already Applied). You can spend money and buy new bolts as already mentioned within this thread, or alternatively, clean up the bolts and re-apply Loctite Threadlock 242 (Blue - Medium strength). I wouldn't apply the Loctite red (Permanent) since you will have to apply 300 deg of heat to get them out next time!
 
PembsGSA said:
New caliper bolts are ALOC type (Locking Compound Already Applied). You can spend money and buy new bolts as already mentioned within this thread, or alternatively, clean up the bolts and re-apply Loctite Threadlock 242 (Blue - Medium strength). I wouldn't apply the Loctite red (Permanent) since you will have to apply 300 deg of heat to get them out next time!
Click to expand...

Wouldn't the best option to replace them as BMW tell you?
 
Am I being a bit thick ; the Caliper is hanging off but one of the bolts can be seen hanging half out?Perhaps I cannot see the image clear enough, but if correct that is impossible ???
 
jools76 said:
Hi all! This is me! Didn’t know the Crotchrocket posted it!! Thank you for all the kind words.

I can tell you that I replaced the tyres front and back that day. As you may know, to get the front wheel out you have to remove the front callipers, which I did and fitted the tyres and replaced the wheel and all the parts. I am a very competent mechanic and always double and triple check my work and would never ride a bike I thought to be dangerous, and in my 24 years of riding have never made a mistake with my mechanics, because I always triple check out lid verbally to myself. So the blame is well away from me thank you.
Click to expand...

Good to know that this has absolutely nothing at all to do with you or your mechanical skills :thumb2
 
If I was sure it was not down to me I would of been asking for a VOSA inspector to come and look at it rather than allow BMW to mark their own homework, I bet they will say it was nothing to do with them and the owner must have caused it.

I was also told a story of a rear calliper coming loose on a GS, this was from a guy I used to know fairly well, doubt he made it up, the story was within a couple of miles of leaving the dealer after a service his rear calliper came loose and started smashing around - luckily he was able to stop. This was probably around the time the LC came out give or take so I am not sure if it was the new or old model he had.
 
I don't think it even matters what model GS it is, even with my 1150 if the caliper came off, it'd probably end up going straight in to the spokes and have more or less the same effect. At least the fella is okay, I wouldn't want to be fighting responsibility with BMW either.
 
mattgirv said:
I don't think it even matters what model GS it is, even with my 1150 if the caliper came off, it'd probably end up going straight in to the spokes and have more or less the same effect. At least the fella is okay, I wouldn't want to be fighting responsibility with BMW either.
Click to expand...

Not after he admitted in a forum this happened right after working on the caliper.
 
GrinningGSer said:
Am I being a bit thick ; the Caliper is hanging off but one of the bolts can be seen hanging half out?Perhaps I cannot see the image clear enough, but if correct that is impossible ???
Click to expand...

The hole in the calliper shears off leaving a bent bolt in situ but the calliper mangled. That’s what happened on mine.
 
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