Goldwing…….nearly
- Thread starter leadfarmer
- Start date
There'll be some worn out foot pegs on that one
Hmmm, around the IOM track on it. Now that would be interesting
Bugger !
Got a USB splitter and a Bluetooth dongle to try fool the bike into using Apple Car Play without a helmet comms connected but it won’t recognise it .
It’s supposed to be called BTR118
All I get is something called YET M1 which connects but I’ve no idea what it is . I plug phone in top but no Car Play
Back to the drawing board
Got a USB splitter and a Bluetooth dongle to try fool the bike into using Apple Car Play without a helmet comms connected but it won’t recognise it .
It’s supposed to be called BTR118
All I get is something called YET M1 which connects but I’ve no idea what it is . I plug phone in top but no Car Play
Back to the drawing board
Does your phone support A2DP/HSF & AVRCP - IIUC these are required drivers for the phone to see the BT adapter thingy BTR118 & I see the product table lists a few more.
I think the bike can see his phone as it does need to be connected via usb for Apple CarPlay to work.
The problem (my understanding) is that the bike requires a Bluetooth intercom headset to be paired and connected for Apple CarPlay to work, as not only does it need to give you notifications, but also receive spoken commands, such as replying to a text message.
The Bluetooth dongle Martin has purchased seem to be unable to be found by the bike, thus not launching Apple CarPlay. I think that the dongle, does not get recognised by the bike as a “speaker” (lack of certain protocols?)
My suggestions to this would be a cheap and small portable Bluetooth speaker from Amazon or a Sena 10s module only. Both are small enough to be stowed away in the pannier or cubby holes.
Sena 10s is the most likely option to work as the bike will recognise it as a Bluetooth intercom, but as it will not have speakers and microphone attached, it will not be able to transmit any sounds nor pickup the spoken commands.
Bugger !
Got a USB splitter and a Bluetooth dongle to try fool the bike into using Apple Car Play without a helmet comms connected but it won’t recognise it .
It’s supposed to be called BTR118
All I get is something called YET M1 which connects but I’ve no idea what it is . I plug phone in top but no Car Play
Back to the drawing board
I’ve been through all this and the only way I found to fool the system was to chuck a spare BT headset module in the bike. It’s down to the specific BT protocols it’s looking for.
Exactly my thoughts in the post above.
I’m not trying to get my phone to pair with the Bluetooth dongle-im trying to get the Wings to accept it as a “Rider Headset” so I can use Car Play with a non-comms helmet.
I'm interested in the same thing so I'll be following this to see exactly what works.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...vdm8tuf6AhW8RkEAHcKgAA0Qwg8oAHoECAYQIQ&adurl=
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I see from a Facebook group that this works
The guys adds this spiel
You can use any USB 3.5mm BT Receiver, as long as it also has HSP (Headset Profile) & HFP
So I thought I’d bought something very similar from Amazon.
It states it has HSP
Post the spiel from the FB…..
Aaaye
Anything you want tbh, is a generic term for the circuit boards that drive the headset speakers etc
what you have in that dongle is a bluetooth module, the problem is i said before is OEM willy waving
Bluetooth is a set of about 32 protocols
these cover
What revision of bluetooth, mono, stereo, AD2P streaming, video streaming , device renaming , visibility handshake protocols (more on this later) and loads more
The idea is that each manufacturer of a bluetooth device adopts the protocols and any device will talk to any other device , simple and easy
But, to impliment all all protocls costs money, so to keep the costs down, some manufacturers omit many of the protocols that arnt readily needed .
now the contentious one, handshake protocols, the correct way is an open handshake from any device ,
now lets say manufacturer A strikes up a deal with manufacturer C to use his equipment as an exclusive option,
So they set the handshake protocol, to only accept a handshake from manufacturer C's equipment,
So no other protocols or hardware work, and A & C makes all the money from the collaboration
Naturally the other manufacturers see this and start there own partnership, and they all start getting a slice of the pie
Then one of the manufacturers decides, they dont want to share there stuff with everyone,
they want everyone to use there software / hardware, so they change the protocols slightly and suddenly you can only get the hardware to work with manufacturer xxx 's software / hardware
Sometimes it's inadvertent, other times its blatant lol ( how many times have you had a certain browser installed, even when you ticked the uninstall box
)if you plug the dongle into a PC, and look at it's properties, or see if has an associated program with it, you can often rename the dongle to something else, in your case the name of the unit the bike is looking for
If that dosent work, then it's protocols
Anything you want tbh, is a generic term for the circuit boards that drive the headset speakers etc
what you have in that dongle is a bluetooth module, the problem is i said before is OEM willy waving
Bluetooth is a set of about 32 protocols
these cover
What revision of bluetooth, mono, stereo, AD2P streaming, video streaming , device renaming , visibility handshake protocols (more on this later) and loads more
The idea is that each manufacturer of a bluetooth device adopts the protocols and any device will talk to any other device , simple and easy
But, to impliment all all protocls costs money, so to keep the costs down, some manufacturers omit many of the protocols that arnt readily needed .
now the contentious one, handshake protocols, the correct way is an open handshake from any device ,
now lets say manufacturer A strikes up a deal with manufacturer C to use his equipment as an exclusive option,
So they set the handshake protocol, to only accept a handshake from manufacturer C's equipment,
So no other protocols or hardware work, and A & C makes all the money from the collaboration
Naturally the other manufacturers see this and start there own partnership, and they all start getting a slice of the pie
Then one of the manufacturers decides, they dont want to share there stuff with everyone,
they want everyone to use there software / hardware, so they change the protocols slightly and suddenly you can only get the hardware to work with manufacturer xxx 's software / hardware
Sometimes it's inadvertent, other times its blatant lol ( how many times have you had a certain browser installed, even when you ticked the uninstall box
if you plug the dongle into a PC, and look at it's properties, or see if has an associated program with it, you can often rename the dongle to something else, in your case the name of the unit the bike is looking for
If that dosent work, then it's protocols
Ok ta.
But a guy on facebook said you just need a Bluetooth receiver with HSP which is the headset protocol and the dongle I bought supposedly has this, so it should get recognised when I try and pair it as Rider Headset on the Wing ?
It’s supposed to ID as BTR118 but mine comes up with YET M1 which is another Bluetooth dongle but should also be HSP compatible
Ok, got it working !!!
My Bluetooth dongle has the ID YET M1 and NOT BTR118 !!
No wonder I was confused .
The USB splitter doesn’t work !
I managed to pair YET M1 as my Rider Headset , but didn’t use the USB in the cubby hole .
I simply powered it up using a USB plug near the bike
Then as soon as I connected my phone to the USB in the cubby hole , hey presto !
So you need to use the cubby hole USB to connect your phone and a second source for the Bluetooth dongle .
It turns out that there’s a second USB slot under the seat . I just need toget this extension cable to run it into the left pannier !!
Like this
Sorted, or at least it will be !!!
My Bluetooth dongle has the ID YET M1 and NOT BTR118 !!
No wonder I was confused .
The USB splitter doesn’t work !
I managed to pair YET M1 as my Rider Headset , but didn’t use the USB in the cubby hole .
I simply powered it up using a USB plug near the bike
Then as soon as I connected my phone to the USB in the cubby hole , hey presto !
So you need to use the cubby hole USB to connect your phone and a second source for the Bluetooth dongle .
It turns out that there’s a second USB slot under the seat . I just need toget this extension cable to run it into the left pannier !!
Like this
Sorted, or at least it will be !!!
It’s the bit on the outside of the helmet. Usually has the switches on it. The bit you plug the speakers/mic into.
Just been and checked my bike and the USB 2 cable is already installed !!!
The confusion arose as someone said on a facebook group that I would need to install the cable as per the picture a few posts above but it would appear that earlier bikes didnt have the cable pre-installed but 2022 bikes do.
So it should all work fine.
USB 1 in the cubby hole is for the phone to enable Car Play.Don’t try using a splitter USB as it will stop it working.
Then USB 2 in left pannier is for power only so ideal for powering up a Bluetooth dongle.
That one I bought was only a fiver and will enable Car Play without having to use a Bluetooth helmet.
Got there eventually !!!
The confusion arose as someone said on a facebook group that I would need to install the cable as per the picture a few posts above but it would appear that earlier bikes didnt have the cable pre-installed but 2022 bikes do.
So it should all work fine.
USB 1 in the cubby hole is for the phone to enable Car Play.Don’t try using a splitter USB as it will stop it working.
Then USB 2 in left pannier is for power only so ideal for powering up a Bluetooth dongle.
That one I bought was only a fiver and will enable Car Play without having to use a Bluetooth helmet.
Got there eventually !!!
Couldn't you simply connect the dongle to to the USB slot under the seat? And leave it there?
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