Graunching on overrun

topcat2006

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Hi All,

Im getting a graunching feeling through my footegs on the overrun. If I lift my feet off the footpegs I can't feel it.

I recently changed my paralever bearings and checked the main bearing and all seems to be ok here. Whilst I had the paralever off I noticed the splines on the shaft were dry and the grease on them had dried too. I re-greased them with molybdenum grease as instructed in the Haynes manual.

Can anyone offer any advice as to what this may be?

Thanks

Tom
 
I can get all kind of odd vibes through the footpegs, my bike has done it on and off since I bought it, tyres can cause it, throttle balance can too, there is nothing amiss with mine, they are a somewhat vibey thing sometimes.
Stewart
 
Hi Sewart,

Thanks for the response. maybe I ma being hyper critical after doing the bearings then!

Tom
 
hi

i had similar when i did paralever and final drive bearings, maybe it is the tyre getting used to not wobbling about anymore. The only other thing could be the phasing of the driveshaft but i do not know if this causes a problem or not.

regards
 
Did your UJ look/feel OK? The boot can split on the para joint and dry things out. It may be that as you have fixed some bits you can feel other things instead.

Also did you check there was smooth play in the new pivot bearings when reinstalled? If you move it through its axis when you have torqued them, you can check if you have overdone it.
 
Hi Wrigsby,

The boot is fine and not split at all and the UJ felt fine.

The splines were very dry - all the grease on them had powdered up so I have re-greased that.

The bearings all seemed smooth when I did the job - they were certainly better than the old ones!

The only other thought I had was the rear suspension. Im assuming the ony check for that is if it is leaking oil or not - or can the bushes top and bottom cause problems?

Tom
 
Suprising the splines were that dry. On mono's the splines move very slightly back and fore so killing the spline grease, hence the need for regreasing. I think even Steptoe has said they shouldn't go dry on para's.

Re shock.... have a quick look.... back wheel out and shock out in not much time. As with the parallel bar pivots, it's always worth taking them apart and giving them a grease as they can easily go dry especially with an OCD power washer:D
 
That noise.

I had that 3 weeks ago, i didnt bother too much about and thought maybe my throttle bodies need to be balanced. So booked it into BMW for the next available saturday they had (2 weeks wait). on the sunday before hand 30 miles down the road the crown bearing collapsed and the final drive oil left the bike. My good wife came with the bike trailer and i took it to BMW £351.00 :augie later all is well and no vibrations.
 
We were getting ot the crown wheel bearing :)..... If it felt OK with no play, no oil leakage, and no other signs when you tore down the bike for the para bearings, the only way to check would be Steptoes check in the "sticky" section of removing and replacing the seal. I suspect that lots of folk have thought that has gone and it hasn't.

The check is no guarantee of things staying great long term though as stated. The M/works guy said about checking the state of your bevel oil for non metallic particles as well.
 
I did do the steptoe check and all the rivets were in place and nothing cracked or broken. Still I guess that does not mean all is well.

I have a new bearing on standby just in case though.....

Tom
 
I did do the steptoe check and all the rivets were in place and nothing cracked or broken. Still I guess that does not mean all is well.

I have a new bearing on standby just in case though.....

Tom

You have probably done as much as you can if you have inspected/greased the other joints. The next stage is to break the bike back to the gearbox but that is usually only done by bored US riders when it snows:augie Unless you really need to...:D

PS What bike and if an 11 what age??
 
1.Do you have part worn Tourances on the bike?.
2.When you greased the splines,did you pull the end bit out;and if you did,did you put it back in the same position?.
Search on "drive shaft phasing".
 
1.Do you have part worn Tourances on the bike?.
2.When you greased the splines,did you pull the end bit out;and if you did,did you put it back in the same position?.
Search on "drive shaft phasing".



Yip, worn tyres are noisy/vibey and not phasing your driveshaft may induce vibes but is this mechanical or not? If its just general vibes it may be the engine:D

Gawd, what do people complain about on Dukes or HD's. "I don't have blurred vis after 100 mile rides; what's wrong with my bike?":D:D
 
Hi,

The bike is an 05 1150GSA SE.

The tyres are new tourances.

The driveshaft would only go back in one way as there was one bigger spline than the rest and as such would not allow multiple positions.

I'm not bored enough to strip the bike all the way back to the gearbox yet..... Mind if it snows like it did last year who knows...

Tom
 
Hi,

The bike is an 05 1150GSA SE.

The tyres are new tourances.

The driveshaft would only go back in one way as there was one bigger spline than the rest and as such would not allow multiple positions.

I'm not bored enough to strip the bike all the way back to the gearbox yet..... Mind if it snows like it did last year who knows...

Tom

Use it fine but check your gearbox and bevel oil a couple of times. I don't think that these had any major internal gearbox probs but I am not sure whether the later ones had the gearbox alignment issues that some 1150's had which dried out the gearbox input splines? 1150 owners Q??
 
Well a few days of test riding.

I have done all the checks and greasing etc. (Suspension mounts / bushes / bolts dry. Took the torque arm off and the paralever bearings are smooth with a capital S!

Beginning to wonder if its connected to my post "Fluctuating revs" but I have tried dropping the revs and pulling the clutch and I can still feel it I am sure particularly over bumps.

Tom
 


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