GS 1200 anti clock nicking bracket

[Bendy toy]

Unfortunately. I made one that didn't fit right so cut another and then fitted it. It's actually not hard to do. Get some 1mm card or better alloy sheet and cut to fit between the side frames and over the top tube.
Use that as a template to make the 2mm alloy plate. It's one flat sheet with no folds. The centre is cut away to clear the clock mounts but only just enough & no more. Again easy with the template.
The sides will need to be filed to fit between the cast screen brackets and the top U tube. Mine is a tight sliding fit.
My little instruments are 37mm dia.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=180635159056

This is my Mk 1 the top screw holes were drilled for zip ties. But they looked terrible. Screw holes for M4 need to be closer to the edge.
My Mk2 is longer to carry the 37mm volts and oil pressure gauges.

To avoid edge distortions, the metal was cut with a step drill and 1mm angle grinder slitting disc.

 

[Marks adventure]

Unfortunately. I made one that didn't fit right so cut another and then fitted it. It's actually not hard to do. Get some 1mm card or better alloy sheet and cut to fit between the side frames and over the top tube.
Use that as a template to make the 2mm alloy plate. It's one flat sheet with no folds. The centre is cut away to clear the clock mounts but only just enough & no more. Again easy with the template.
The sides will need to be filed to fit between the cast screen brackets and the top U tube. Mine is a tight sliding fit.
My little instruments are 37mm dia.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=180635159056

This is my Mk 1 the top screw holes were drilled for zip ties. But they looked terrible. Screw holes for M4 need to be closer to the edge.
My Mk2 is longer to carry the 37mm volts and oil pressure gauges.

To avoid edge distortions, the metal was cut with a step drill and 1mm angle grinder slitting disc.

View attachment 275036

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View attachment 275038

Thanks for the info.... Is the mk1 sitting on a shelf in your garage in need of a new home?

 

[Bendy toy]

Its probably going on my brother's GSA, but I'll let you know.

2mm aluminium works well. Stiff enough not to bend too easily but thin enough to cut and only needed a little filing to fit under the screen support side castings.

It cuts neatly with step drill and angle grinder & fine slitting disc. Give it a try.

 

[Kiwi_Mike]

Hexhead clocks are not worth much on 2nd hand market £100-200 several at £125 on eBay at the mo,versus lc £300 + ? I could swallow that if mine ever got nicked a £50 bracket no thanks I don't think early GS is or ever has been a problem.

I had my stolen in London. Whilst you can get a new set from a breaker for £150-£300, BMW refuse to re-code them to your bike. So my bike now has an extra 20k miles showing which will effect the re-sale. New ones which BMW obviously will re-code to your bike cost in the region of £750 fitted. Note that apart from the mileage being higher (or lower depending on the set you buy) everything works as it should.

I drilled 1mm holes through the end of the poles and put 0.9mm lock wire around all 3 and around the light frame which I believe has made them much less likely to be stolen again. I also changes the clips to flat ones which are much harder to remove as the original clips have folds which are very easy to get hold of with pliers or even fingers.

 

[Marks adventure]

Its probably going on my brother's GSA, but I'll let you know.

2mm aluminium works well. Stiff enough not to bend too easily but thin enough to cut and only needed a little filing to fit under the screen support side castings.

It cuts neatly with step drill and angle grinder & fine slitting disc. Give it a try.

Thanks for the reply, if he does have it, could you draw round it before you fit it please.

 

[Bendy toy]

Mine is longer to carry small gauges, switches, etc. Its about 3" longer right across the bottom of the cut out. The cut away become a triangle shape hole in the larger plate. This was scanned to A4 so with a bit of luck it will print full size. Ruler is there to show the scale. Don't forget the top holes are not correct.

If you prefer to use zip ties you might be better drilling holes each side but even further in from the edge so the ties can pull properly tight.

 

[Bobbin-Man]

I drilled 1mm holes through the end of the poles and put 0.9mm lock wire around all 3 and around the light frame which I believe has made them much less likely to be stolen again. I also changes the clips to flat ones which are much harder to remove as the original clips have folds which are very easy to get hold of with pliers or even fingers.

The simple solutions are always the best

 

[bikemad]

I had my stolen in London. Whilst you can get a new set from a breaker for £150-£300, BMW refuse to re-code them to your bike. So my bike now has an extra 20k miles showing which will effect the re-sale. New ones which BMW obviously will re-code to your bike cost in the region of £750 fitted. Note that apart from the mileage being higher (or lower depending on the set you buy) everything works as it should.

Lots of company's advertise mileage correction for a small sum £40 on gumtree not ripoff bmw prices !

 

[MattW]

Well I've just spent an hour in the garage and without wishing to tempt fate, I think I've made my clocks a bit harder to steal. It took some repositioning of the original clips and some cable ties. I had to remove the winglets and screen bottom fixings (GSA) and tilt the screen back out of the way to do it and I think a potential thief would have to do the same....

Of course anyone armed with the correct torx driver, some snips and needle nosed pliers could pinch them but hopefully the extra hassle might put them off.

 

[Bendy toy]

I drilled 1mm holes through the end of the poles and put 0.9mm lock wire around all 3 and around the light frame which I believe has made them much less likely to be stolen again. I also changes the clips to flat ones which are much harder to remove as the original clips have folds which are very easy to get hold of with pliers or even fingers.

The simple solutions are always the best

I wanted a way to mount two small instrument gauges and the alloy plate solved both problems. It even reduces headlight glare off the Givi AF-330 sliding screen.

I looked into drilling land lock wiring the mounting points but felt there was not enough material on the plastic stubs to handle the strain of lock wire with the weakening caused by the drilled holes. I was not able to find any tab free clips but they have to be a good idea. Does anyone know if "C" clips exist with longer open ends that could be drilled for lock wire.