GS or GS TE ?

ok.. yes.. have seen it.. had it on my race bikes, years ago (up the box only)... do you need it???.. do you forget to pull the clutch when you stop :)
 
Gear assist pro is great (certainly on the XR, although I believe there were issues on the boxer, and it's not quite as slick).

Really good for rapid series of downshifts, if you get caught out with the road.

Only issue I find - is going back to a bike without it.
 
I think the biggest difference will be the computer pro and the riding modes. The different riding modes really make the bike for me.
 
I think the biggest difference will be the computer pro and the riding modes. The different riding modes really make the bike for me.

I don't understand that.. what do they do actualy that you should not be doing youself??
 
Personally I don't use the modes, I prefer a constant throttle response, so I control how I open it when going mental, riding normally or plodding in the rain etc

The ESA however is fantastic, best ride and handling I've ever had and if you alternate solo, duo, luggage a lot it's a god send

I'll sometimes put the suspension on soft on really knackered roads (think Corsica) or on motorways for comfort

GSAP is great if you know how to use it (steady lads) even if the GS box is far from brilliant

LED headlamp is pretty good too
 
I don't understand that.. what do they do actualy that you should not be doing youself??

They adjust traction control and abs response so basically your emergency chute is a little closer at the times your most likely to need it. I hope to continue not needing the electronic aids by adjusting my riding to the conditions as you suggest, but having them there doesn't hurt.

If you use, say, Rain mode in the rain and also ride like you're on wet roads, you'll probably never notice it - so, used correctly, it doesn't really impact on your riding. We can all make mistakes though and the unexpected can occasionally happen even if you're doing your best to allow for it, so why not dial things down a bit when appropriate and have the right settings backing you up?

PS. TE of course - avoiding progress is futile and that way lies madness: you'll be looking for a car with wind up windows next! :D
 
I have a Freelander.. its the 5th one I've had.. they started out nice and simple.. but the last two have been on cam-bus and sensors on shocks / wheels / tyres / ABS / traction / doors / light etc etc.. and as yet I've got to say that I've only had 1 issue where the boot switch has failed.. no, 2.. I did have a door handle go on the last one...
But replace both parts, and they still don't work untill you take it in and the plug it in to find the new part!!.. what good is that on a touring holliday in the middle of no-where...
I don't know.. the less tech the better for me .... Mind you.. The Std GS I've been looking at does not even have heated grips!.. bugger.. deal breaker that one!!
 
The Std GS I've been looking at does not even have heated grips!.. bugger.. deal breaker that one!!

If it’s a 2014 model the heated grips are almost useles anyway.

ESA can be really temperamental (harsh ride quality at times, preload changing when parked up) and I had my rear shock absorber replaced as a good will warranty claim at 16k miles when it locked nearly solid. The new one was OK at first, but has also become harsh at times.

Mine’s a basic model with the additional options I wanted i.e. (crap) heated grips, Dynamic Pro, low seat, panniers and ESA.

If I was buying again I wouldn’t want ESA, but I’d want a low chassis, which means I’d have to have it
 
I thought I got a great deal on my 2016 S1000XR SE, but if it had been available without ESA - I would have been happier.

Sure, ESA is very clever, but I think once you try good conventional suspension, properly set up and easily adjustable - you would change your mind.
 
I agree.. but just gutted at no heated grips ��... Are the Oxford ones ok... Or best but the BM bits... Bugger.. thought that bike was a winner
 
If it’s a keeper go for the TE.

£1500 over 10 years is a little over 40p a day. As you get used to the bike you may well learn to use and enjoy the gizmos and if you don’t it’s only 40p ;)
 
If it’s a keeper go for the TE.

£1500 over 10 years is a little over 40p a day. As you get used to the bike you may well learn to use and enjoy the gizmos and if you don’t it’s only 40p ;)

Wrong if it is a keeper and YOU will be paying for repairs and replacement parts once out of warranty (try over £3300 for a pair of shocks at 35 months old at less than 14,000 miles) do not buy a TE, or how about £1000 plus for an LED headlight when it blows .

Never mind the hassle of the ESA and GSAP misbehaving on a regular basis and needing regular ECU software updates .

Again fine if the bike is under warranty and you are not having to pay for main dealer workshop diagnostic time ...GS911 doesn't do ecu factory software updates.

For a bike that is a keeper the mantra is simple KISS ........................ Keep It Simple, St*pid, forget about self levelling ESA, LED headlights , TFT , GSAP, SOS they are all there to increase manufacturer and dealers profit margins
 
Last June I bought a new WC, basic bike other than I had the black which was an extra £90. I don’t miss the ESA or any other ‘gizmos’, and as I intend (hope) to keep it for a long time think it will be a cheaper bike for the future too.

Good luck, whatever you choose.
 
It seems the answer is clear - you need a pushbike... and none of those fancy gears on it neither! ;)
 


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