GS refuses to start

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clive916

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Before I load the GS into a van and take it to the bike shop could anyone give me some tips on what may be wrong and what to check. The bikes an 04 R1200GS with no previous problems.
After a couple of months of laying up the battery was flat. I gave it a minimal charge and the bike ran fine. I rode it about a 1/4 mile then it died. It would fire up a little then die again. The battery then packed up again so pushed it home. After a 24 Hr charge the battery is fine and spinning the engine over no problem. It still won't start though. I whipped out a spark plug and found it to be sparking OK. The plug was bone dry suggesting no fuel??
The fuel is OK as far as I'm aware, as it runs my other bikes.

Any help would be appreciated before I cart it off to a dealer.

Many Thanks,

Clive E.
 
Side stand down?

My 1200 has an intermittent problem of "forgetting" which gear its in. This means that I can't start it with the stand down in neutral, clutch out, as the gear indicator jumps to 1, or 2, which makes the electronics switch the ignition off.

Just a thought before you take it for major surgery. Probably should get it checked, but I'm guessing its just water in the switch near the swingarm. Hopefully I'll check it when I get around to cleaning it.

TS
 
With an 04 1200GS, you could be experiencing a fuel pump controller failure. See thread: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152727. I have had one on an 05 model. At first I mistook the symptoms for a battery issue but, having had to bump start the bike (an interesting experience in itself), it cut out 500 miles from home in the pretty village of Roussillon in Vaucluse, on a steep hill, and just refused to restart.
 
Oops

Sorry, just re-read your post. Missed the bit about the engine spinning fine. If it was the gear indicator the starter wouldn't turn during the periods it "thinks" its in gear.

TS
 
If your battery has been flat then the ECU will have forgotten the TPS setting. You may need to rest this. You should also listen for the fuel pump priming.
 
If its getting a spark it must be not getting fuel.

Family of mice set up home in your fuel lines?

Fuel pump controller failure?

Nasty cheap supermarket petrol turned to gunk?
 
Yeah, absolutely classic FPC failure symptoms. A very common fault on earlier bikes. Easy fix, about 20 mins with a torx screwdriver. Welcome to the FPC failure club mate.:thumb

To confirm this, put your ear next to the left hand tank cover. Turn the ignition switch to 'on' and you should hear a "bzzzzt" for about a second, followed by an "eeeek" from the brake servo self-testing if yours is a servo abs model bike. If you only get the "eeeeek", your fuel pump isn't spinning, hence 'Fuel Pump Controller' failure.
 
MattW said:
Isn't there a temporary work-around bodge for this?
Click to expand...

Only if you can make a temporary lead up to put 12 volts directly from the battery to the fuel pump, bypassing the electronic card (FPC).

When my FPC failed, I tested the bike to prove the FPC had blown by using some insulated bullet connectors and old wire to supply 12v to my fuel pump directly.

Clive 916, if you have a duff FPC as suspected, before you throw the old faulty part away cut off the blue wiring connector from it and make yourself a 'get you home' cable from it in case you ever have a repeat of the problem or meet another 12GS owner stranded due to it. Look for the 'sticky' in the 1200 section for the workaround and it'll show you the basics.
 
Thanks very much so far fellas.

Can't find a nest of mice.

Pukmeister suggests listening for the two different noises on switching on the ignition. It makes both noises as described but I'll still knock up a bypass of the FPC just in case. Maybe it isn't supplying full voltage to the pump but still manages to make that noise. I can't do this until I get my small Torx set from work as the BMW set doesn't have a small enough bit.

If this doesn't cure it I'll get some fresh fuel from the garage but like I said my other bikes are OK on it.

If this doesn't cure it...........bugger.....into the van and off to the dealers.

I'll post the results.

Thanks again.
 
Clive, be sure to get hte polarity right if jury-rigging a power supply to test the pump. The details for a work around in the 'sticky' section within the 1200 section should hopefully show which colour wire is the +12V and which is the Earth, I can't remember which terminal on the fuel pump is which off the top of my head.

If you are getting both noises, try resetting the throttle potentiometer as follows in case that is the cause:

Ignition on (but don't start engine)
Roll throttle through full range three times (open-shut-open etc)
Switch off ignition.
Switch on ignition, wait for self-test to finish, then try starting engine.

If that and the FPC workaround don't get it running, you'll need a dealer with diagnostic equipment or the aid of a GS-911 device.
 
Why don't you buy a new FPC unit. It's simple to fit, and there are plenty of threads here to help out. When fitted if the bike starts then you have the diagnosis. If no change in situation you have a spare unit, and you won't need to make up a workaround lead, which should only be a short term fix as the fuel pump is permanently live in the described set up. If sod's law works, youll have bought a spare, and you'll never need it! To me it sounds like a win win situation, as I'm on my third, and my fourth is in the top box just in case.
The local dealer should have them on the shelf.
 
Now fixed.!!! Thank you Pukmeister !!!

Thanks for all the advice fellas.

I checked for power out of the FPC - 0.5V = Nowt= knackered FPC.

Fitted the temporary bodge, bypassing the FPC as described and the thing fired up instantly.

100mile round trip to buy a new FPC and the bikes now been out as good as ever.

The original FPC appeared OK (no corrosion on the heat sink) but the rubber housing underneath was distorted due to the PCB corroding inside.

The old block connector is saved as an emergency bodge. Buying a new FPC is obviously the safest bet but it took 26,000 miles for this one to go and my new one will be constantly swamped with ACF50 and the like so I'll take the chance. (read tight arsed!)

To remind anyone who'll end up doing the same, The white (forward) terminal is the positive feed. (Now a yellow wire on the new FPC)

Cheers again,

Clive E.
 
Glad you got it fixed Clive.:thumb2

Exactly the same distortion to my failed FPC, I reckon it is the power handling capacitor failing that kills them ( capacitor fell apart when I cut open my failed one out of curiosity). The heatsink and fins around the capacitor are the part they changed on the newer 'improved' version.

Lets hope you never need the 'get-you-home lead' you make from the old connector, but it is real peace of mind to know you can easily bypass the FPC in future if you or your 1200 owning buddies break down.
 
Cheers Clive :thumb2 Not exactly bank breaing when you consider the time and hassle to get recovered and fixed
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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