Gs1150 rattles

JASONBC

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I put a thread up this week about some rattles and noises coming of the clutch, gearbox, starter area. It was difficult getting the description correct on here so today i filmed. The noise clearly starts at the clutch bite point

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypDy8A2xkEo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxS-2GOiDHI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8n7NGHh0Zqw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzRrB2HCY1o

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcOeDlRqtHQ

We will get to the end of it and sort it but any pointers or sugestions are more than welcome. Thanks
 
If you're running the bike in gear on the stand, please stop doing it now as it can damage the transmission. The noise you can hear is caused by the huge inertia reversal forces caused by two large pistons sending pulses through the geartrain which then 'shunts' back and forward when there is no load applied.
 
If you're running the bike in gear on the stand, please stop doing it now as it can damage the transmission. The noise you can hear is caused by the huge inertia reversal forces caused by two large pistons sending pulses through the geartrain which then 'shunts' back and forward when there is no load applied.

The noise is nothing to do pistons and pulses it's something breaking down internally, if it was what you said we would have noticed it over the past few years but it only started happening a week or so ago it's definatly a strange one that will need looking at shortly.

Thanks for thoughts though
 
Oh dear.. just watched those clips and sure enough there is the wheel spinning with the bike on its mainstand. I had to see it to believe it. :eek:

And there you are standing round just watching it complain LOUDLY and you think its faulty!!!

oops.

Does it make these noises when the bike is NOT on the mainstand running in gear? have you tried.. and in gear.. have you tried riding it slowly - does it make these horrible noises then too?

I can well remember doing this to my first GS back in 97... you never saw anyone move so fast to switch off the engine. It was only afterwards that I read in the owners manual... DON'T!!!

I said OOPS then too.
 
Oh dear.. just watched those clips and sure enough there is the wheel spinning with the bike on its mainstand. I had to see it to believe it. :eek:

And there you are standing round just watching it complain LOUDLY and you think its faulty!!!

oops.

Does it make these noises when the bike is NOT on the mainstand running in gear? have you tried.. and in gear.. have you tried riding it slowly - does it make these horrible noises then too?

I can well remember doing this to my first GS back in 97... you never saw anyone move so fast to switch off the engine. It was only afterwards that I read in the owners manual... DON'T!!!

I said OOPS then too.

WE KNOW NOT TO SPIN THE WHEEL IN GEAR OFF THE DECK. WE WERE TRYING TO SIMULATE CONDITIONS. The bike is already partially *ucke* somewhere in the clutch,transmisson, gearbox, starter, so if it was on the stand and doing 110mph it wouldn't make it any worse.
Wheel was only driving in 1 clip and I guarantee you it's making a hell of a racket when on the deck

The noise has nothing to do with bike being in gear, on the stand and running. After all you don't drive down the road with the back wheel in the air, and thats when it was noticed first on the way home from work. Sat in traffic with the clutch pulled in
 
WE KNOW NOT TO SPIN THE WHEEL IN GEAR OFF THE DECK. WE WERE TRYING TO SIMULATE CONDITIONS. The bike is already partially *ucke* somewhere in the clutch,transmisson, gearbox, starter, so if it was on the stand and doing 110mph it wouldn't make it any worse.
Wheel was only driving in 1 clip and I guarantee you it's making a hell of a racket when on the deck

The noise has nothing to do with bike being in gear, on the stand and running. After all you don't drive down the road with the back wheel in the air, and thats when it was noticed first on the way home from work. Sat in traffic with the clutch pulled in
Is the started still engaged after actually starting thre bike? Push the button and see if the sound changes ;)

Dan.
 
Is the started still engaged after actually starting thre bike? Push the button and see if the sound changes ;)

Dan.
:clap:clapAt last a sensible suggestion, and quite plausible one at that, that will be worth a look at the weekend.

Thank you
 
Well we started on it last night, surprising really how easy these things are to work on.
We tried the starting motor too see if that was the fault we ran the engine and removed the starter, with engine running that completley prooved that theory and no fault was found with the starter and the noise continued with the starter removed.
We're 95% certain we've got the problem now and will find out for sure when we throw it all back together.
It appears that the noise from the clutch is through a lack of graphite grease on the clutch, (as we tried to simlute how it works not in the bike)when we split the clutch the noise the friction plate made was the same as what was happening when the clutch lever was on/off the bite point. The friction plate was chattering against the clutch and th enoise appears to have been the vibration of th etwo
We will throw it back together at the weekend and see what happens..

gs1.jpg


gs4.jpg


Quite easy to work on these bikes, only took about 2 hours to get this far, including testing the starting motor operation
 
So you put a new friction plate inside? Was the the plate OEM or was it thicker than 6.4 mm and you had to add shims to it?

Just asking... :)

Dan.
 
So you put a new friction plate inside? Was the the plate OEM or was it thicker than 6.4 mm and you had to add shims to it?

Just asking... :)

Dan.

It was a standard BMW clutch kit that was fitted, but th emanual does say they need graphite grease on them when fitted and it didn't appear to have much on there when we removed the clutch so hopefullt that will be all the problem is
 
It appears that the noise from the clutch is through a lack of graphite grease on the clutch,

Optimoly is better than graphite grease on a BMW clutch.

Steptoe advises that it's best on these bikes to knock her into neutral if sitting for any length of time in traffic or at slow changing lights. :thumb2

:thumb Yep, otherwise over a period of time you'll feck up the tiny little thrust bearing in the clutch slave cylinder.
 
Optimoly is better than graphite grease on a BMW clutch.



:thumb Yep, otherwise over a period of time you'll feck up the tiny little thrust bearing in the clutch slave cylinder.


Thanks for response guys whats the difference or benefits between graphite grease and optimoly?? or chemical properties

as for the stand issue i see where your coming from
 
Put it back together tonight it wasn't much better so pulled the slave cylinder out and it was f****d, bearing gone and seal gone. Will go up town in the morning and get a new bearing and seal hopefully they will be in stock then i can rebuild it and put it back together on sunday with a bit of luck.

ss1.jpg



ss2.jpg



ss3.jpg



At least now i know what the problems is it can be sorted, So much for the noise being the back wheel in gear and driving off the ground despite it was in neutral and the wheel and tyre balance being slightly out why it was rolling around
 
It just rolled around 'cos of the oil in tbhe gearbox acts as a fuid drive a la auto gear box. It will stop by putting your hand on the wheel no power there at all.
 
Put it back together tonight it wasn't much better so pulled the slave cylinder out and it was f****d, bearing gone and seal gone. Will go up town in the morning and get a new bearing and seal hopefully they will be in stock then i can rebuild it and put it back together on sunday with a bit of luck.

ss1.jpg



ss2.jpg



ss3.jpg



At least now i know what the problems is it can be sorted, So much for the noise being the back wheel in gear and driving off the ground despite it was in neutral and the wheel and tyre balance being slightly out why it was rolling around

Hi there!
Can you write what bearing and seal will fit the original slave cylinder? Is the repair really difficult? Everyone says that the slave is not demountable and the only thing we can do is to buy a new one for a lot of cash.
 
Hi there!
Can you write what bearing and seal will fit the original slave cylinder? Is the repair really difficult? Everyone says that the slave is not demountable and the only thing we can do is to buy a new one for a lot of cash.

BMW don't list parts for the slave cylinder...

Mike :nenau
 
I know and they do the same with many other things that can be repaired. They must earn money.
The slave cylinders have a safety pin which can be removed and I think that it could be repaired with a small amount of money. Let's wait for JASONBC's report. As you can see - he opened the slave and he is able to replace the broken parts.
 
Hi there!
Can you write what bearing and seal will fit the original slave cylinder? Is the repair really difficult? Everyone says that the slave is not demountable and the only thing we can do is to buy a new one for a lot of cash.


Encountered 1 problem this morning went to the 2 Hydraulics centres we use at work for all supplies, cylinders, hoses, bearings etc.

The problem is the bearing is a BMW specific item it not on sale to the public the seals are about £3 each if i order them 2 required.
Think father has decided to order the seals and bearings from MOTO BINS if he can, if not he will just buy a complete new unit instead of getting a bit from here, then waiting for another bit to arrive from somewhere else.
A whole new unit may be more expensive but will get the bike back on the road quicker.

As far as the bearing being an Odd size thats not uncommon, the alternator belt tensioner went on my SAAB a few years back and i could only get one of them from SAAB none of the bearing suppliers we use could get them and they did try for me.
 


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