GSA 1150 wont start

This is a GSA Yes? There is no choke is there? - just a fast idle, just like keeping the throttle slightly open. It sounds to me (numpty mode on!) like a very bad earth. The starter draws a lot of current doesn't it? Might explain the cutting out mid ride too - unless you had the alarm fitted at that stage in which case it might have had something to do with it. I think the earth for the starter runs straight to the earth strap on the block (though I could be wrong), under the battery tray. If you look under the tray you should see (if it's like mine - I changed the loom last weekend:toungincheek) the earth strap bolted to the block. It's a bitch to get at! You could try running another earth from the starter direct to the battery to see if that changes anything. I'm not sure of the circuitry round the starter though:augie
 
The choke as previously mentioned is not a choke, it just cracks the throttle a bit, your tickover sounds too low to me, why not wind the BBS out one full turn? if it does not work you can wind them back in one full turn so not disturbing the dealers good work, another thing to check is that the TPS voltage is correct, if you have accidentally booted it at some time then it might go below its tickover value and not allow enough fuel.
Stewart
 
The choke seems to actually help, its like the choke isnt enough. If I then leave the choke alone and use the throttle, ie give it even more fuel it starts. But there's only a certain point I can open the throttle before the clicks start, sounds as if the throttle doesn't like being opened that much on start up (which I can understand).

Could it be as simple as the engine just isn't getting enough fuel to start?

Yet having said that.......when I do start it by opening the throttle, when I stop the engine again and try again it wont start at all even with the throttle.

or is there not enough power going to the starter.

Hey mate! :)
As I mentioned on my post, and since we have the exact same problems, check the idle RPM, and add some fuel cleaner in the tank, after I did to mine it seems working as it should!
Big test is going to be tomorrow morning (really early since I am planning a short trip) if it catches then the problem is narrowed to something from the above :)
 
Yeah it is a GSA. I'll check the earth. Thats the little rectangle plug just below the main terminal on the starter - correct. How can I run another earth to test - what do I do? (if I'm so0unding a bit dim here its because I'm a newbie to mechanic-ing my own bike - determined but a newbie all the same)

The BBS wind sounds easier to try first - when you say wind the BBS out one full turn - what do you mean, whats the BBS - I'm thinking idle speed brass screws?????

TPS voltage - where is it and how do I check it - sound like I need to get gear to do that - like volt meter type gear
 
Yeah it is a GSA. I'll check the earth. Thats the little rectangle plug just below the main terminal on the starter - correct. How can I run another earth to test - what do I do? (if I'm so0unding a bit dim here its because I'm a newbie to mechanic-ing my own bike - determined but a newbie all the same)

The BBS wind sounds easier to try first - when you say wind the BBS out one full turn - what do you mean, whats the BBS - I'm thinking idle speed brass screws?????

TPS voltage - where is it and how do I check it - sound like I need to get gear to do that - like volt meter type gear

I'm not sure here either TBH. Hopefully someone with more knowledge might help. I've had a look at a schematic - I think the big 13mm connection is straight to the battery positive and the little earth is probably for the starter relay to make it spin. The starter probably earths straight through the gearbox where the battery earth is made too - under the battery tray. If the battery is making a bad earth to the gearbox, then it might not be able to draw enough to start. I'm not good with electrics it has to be said!

So - the given the symptons, and a new battery, and that the starter has been checked off the bike (you have removed the starter and connected it directly to the battery to check it spins OK from that source?) then it can only be a dodgy connection can't it?
 
Gentlemen, I think my problem is solved!!!!!!

It seems to be the idle speed.

I charged the battery overnight - as usual the first start got it going with throttle but only just. Once I got it going I kept the revs up for a minute or two, let it settle and adjusted the idle speed. It smoked alot for a little while then settled. I turned it off. Started no problem. In fact all the sense of labouring has disappeared. Its like it was the day I bought it. Push the starter and bang fires to life very sprightly. ALL that sense of slow turnover or low battery feel is gone.

1. I can't believe it was so simple amazing isnt it - I didnt think the idel speed setting would affect startup like that.
2. I don't quite understand why that would give all the symptoms it gave - although it makes perfect sense. The starter should get turnover going, then the initial fires should take it the rest of the way to turning at a speed that startup can happen. BUT I would have thought that opening the throttle would have the same effect as the idle speed adjusters - obviously not.

What exactly does opening the throttle do with the engine is it adding more fuel or changing the air fuel mixture. AND what dos adjusting the idle speed do exactly???????

Having said all this lets leave it a few hours till it gets cold again and then check.

I post again tonight.........
 
Tested again today, fire up and was ready to go immediately with no hesitations, clutching and shifting cold is done as it should be!
Arrived at destination, stopped for a couple of hours, re started (no bars showing on the RID since I was on a mountain and the temperature was low) fired again immediately!
Idle RPM (when hot ~1100) when cold ~1000 problems = none! :)
 
Mine seems good too. Tried it a few times today at it is cold. No problem, starts straight away.

The idle speed has dropped slightly already though. I'm noticing that if the idle drops below 1000 at any time the bike shudders alot, as it its about to cut out.

When its warm its idling at about 1100-1200 cold at 1000.
 
what's the BBS???

Don't tell me its the Big Brass Screws........


Cause by coincidence thats what I did adjust..........
 
well I shake my head in awe of technology and its amazingly complex technical terms.....:augie:blast:clap:aidan
 


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