GSA petrol tank studs stripped - oh feck

Spanner

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Having noticed a growing smell of petrol I stripped my 1150GSA tank to find the previous owner had attempted to seal the internals access with sealant around the O-ring, and in the process had part stripped the 6 studs. :eek I've cleaned the stud threads up, but only 2 (diametrically opposite) will hold 5Nm and I've petrol weeping out. It seems a daft idea in hindsight :blast, but I tried recutting one of the stripped studs down to a 4mm thread, but it wouldn't hold 5Nm as it's not hardened.

I'm after advice about how best to repair this. A search of the forums seems to suggest sawing the studs off, drilling and tapping a new hole and and braising in new 5mm studs. Anyone suggest where I can get this done economically, or suggest an alternative approach.

Or (just for laughs) anyone got a cheap ADV tank in silver?

Spanner
 
I've not had this problem (yet), though I have had the guts out of my Adventure tank a couple of times.

As suggested - drill out the old studs and thread the holes, but instead of brazing the new studs in, put a plain washers and fibre washers on 5mm Set screws and thread them in from the inside. This will produce a circle of studs :thumb2

They should tighten up and not leak, but if a re-cut thread fails then tightening the pump/filter/fuel sender plate will simply pull the set screw head tighter against the inside.

I seem to recall someone doing this in the past so it shouldn't just be a hare-brained idea :augie

Brazing / welding petrol tanks is a bit dodgy. The last time I did that we filled the tank with water as a precaution (after cleaning it out thoroughly).

Bob.
 
No comment to make on the current problem you havem but while you're in there and hae it stripped down, do the very simple and cheap mod to move your filter outside the tank...then next time you have to change the filter, it's a 3 minute easy job rather than a two hour fraught with danger job :)
 
i had same problem on an r85. the bolt was broken off and sealed with sillicone.

i ended up getting someone to weld a bolt (same size) onto tank. tank was washed out with water first and left air for a couple of days.

worked great. not sure about 6 bolts though
 
You've part stripped the six studs.

So why not use the unstripped higher section.
Put some nuts on top of the original nuts, or use washers as spacers. So you can still torque the fuel pump cover down tight enough.


. tank was washed out with water first and left air for a couple of days.

Just running engine exhaust fumes into the tank for 20 minutes will make it safe to weld..
 
what is this filter mod you speak of??sounds good as i dread this job

Isn't so good in reality. I'm putting mine back in the tank the next time my tank is low and i've nothing to do.

But then again i can change a filter in a tank in 20 minutes max start to finish.
 
Isn't so good in reality. I'm putting mine back in the tank the next time my tank is low and i've nothing to do.

But then again i can change a filter in a tank in 20 minutes max start to finish.


why would you put it back inside ?
 
No comment to make on the current problem you havem but while you're in there and hae it stripped down, do the very simple and cheap mod to move your filter outside the tank...then next time you have to change the filter, it's a 3 minute easy job rather than a two hour fraught with danger job :)

And where's the fun in that :nenau

Much better to take it round to St.Eptoe for sorting - there's a petrol station next to Asda and one down the road at Tesco where you can fill up...... just BEFORE you get to his place :D
 
why would you put it back inside ?

Less pipework dangling about.
Plus i've yet to find a make of fuel hose that lasts longer than 12 months without perishing due to the tight curves that you need to make so the filter sits out of the way.
Most start to crack in six months.
 
Less pipework dangling about.
Plus i've yet to find a make of fuel hose that lasts longer than 12 months without perishing due to the tight curves that you need to make so the filter sits out of the way.
Most start to crack in six months.

Right, that does it! :mad:

I'm definitely gonna sue the bastidge who did mine!!! :augie
 
Pity u can't change the filter through the filler neck,like on the old K series, But it's not too bad to change them on the R :) Just make sure you buy a NEW O ring :rob
 
No comment to make on the current problem you havem but while you're in there and hae it stripped down, do the very simple and cheap mod to move your filter outside the tank...then next time you have to change the filter, it's a 3 minute easy job rather than a two hour fraught with danger job :)

How on earth can changing a filter take two hours? done mine many times nothing like two hours.
 
Have read somewhere that after the studs have been cut off / drilled out - use liquid metal to seal / fix new bolts in place. Never tried it myself though :nenau
 
i'm in the middle of changing mine for the first time, whats best for securing pipe to filter as bm use cripped, jubilee clips ok. sorry for the hi jack,
 
How on earth can changing a filter take two hours? done mine many times nothing like two hours.

Never under estimate the power of stupidity!:)
1. Took tank off. About 10 minutes as no quick release for fuel lines on 1100.
2. Remove 6 nuts from studs. About 5 minutes.
3. Disconnect overflow pipes inside tank and remove inerds. About 5 minutes.
4. Remove fuel filter. Half done in 2 minutes.
5. Squirt fuel from fuel filter into left eye. About 10 seconds.
6. Wait for ambulance to take to A&E. About 30 minutes.
7. Having young nurse put flushing solution through eye ball to rinse fuel out from behind eye socket. Several hours.:(
8. Next service - Take bike to Steptoe...
 


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