That's very interesting. Thanks for that Engineer.This intermittent behavior is typical of water ingress.
Here is my link from 2009!
Handlebar switchgear stopped working
- Thread starter Slime Bomb
- Start date
It's both.
agreed, jetwashes do the most damage to electricals especally switches, if you need to jetwash cover the switchgear and grips with a plastic bag covering/tied on.
My pleasure
The micro switches in the unit are generally what fail. I found cleaning them with iso didn't work, they still were sticky / slow to switch
The good news is all the micro switches are the same. But they are extremely fiddly to solder.
It's going to sound harsh, but that switch pack has operated for 14 years, without failure
Rhe cost of a new pair might be high. But if you get another 14 years out of them
The good news is all the micro switches are the same. But they are extremely fiddly to solder.
It's going to sound harsh, but that switch pack has operated for 14 years, without failure
Rhe cost of a new pair might be high. But if you get another 14 years out of them
I re read the opening post, he posted this .
"now the only switches that work are the starter and the aux spotlights. Heated grips, indicators, and switches that alter the settings on the left side all dead."
Which seems to refer to both sides so I now suspect it may not be the handlebars switches at all.
Though it does seem that something got water soaked
"now the only switches that work are the starter and the aux spotlights. Heated grips, indicators, and switches that alter the settings on the left side all dead."
Which seems to refer to both sides so I now suspect it may not be the handlebars switches at all.
Though it does seem that something got water soaked
Yeah, it seems a very strange one.
Quick update. Had the switches apart and they are fine. The rubber boots on the micro switches are all perfect so the problem seems to be elsewhere. Does anyone know where the main earths are on the bike, maybe dirty?
Just to reiterate, it all started when the bike wouldn't start because of a knackered battery so I think the problem lies there, wherever 'there' is! I'm sure I can't be the only one this has happened to.
A big thanks to Santa 2512 for sending me another switch to try.
Just to reiterate, it all started when the bike wouldn't start because of a knackered battery so I think the problem lies there, wherever 'there' is! I'm sure I can't be the only one this has happened to.
A big thanks to Santa 2512 for sending me another switch to try.
To be clear, the bike runs fine and the display works. The only things that work are the starter, kill switch and spotlights. No other switches work.
I don't think there are any 'main earths' on the bike. I believe the switch returns go straight to the control unit. Is there a common connector for the switches that do not work?
That's my next thing to look for but I think they might be under the tank which I filled up last time I went out...
Ok, switches all taken apart with rubber boots off. No signs of water and boots like new but aired on radiator for a few days just in case and re attached. Still nothing. Any other suggestions would be gratefully received as I'm at a loss now.
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with GS 911 attached does it show the ZFE is seeing the button presses ?
ZFEs are beginning to die - if you try this and see nothing - either the switch the wiring or the ZFE are at fault
AKA this
Battery voltage : 12.00 V
Alternator Voltage : 0.64 V
Brake light switch front (if fitted) : 2.49 V
Brake light switch rear (if fitted) : 2.49 V
Fuel strip heater current : 20.36 mA
Fuel strip heater voltage : 0.64 V
Fuel sense voltage : 0.01 V
Horn button : OFF
Trip/Info button (if fitted) : OFF
Heated grips switch, level 1/push button : OFF
Heated grips switch, level 2 (if fitted) : OFF
Cancel indicators button : OFF
Left indicator button : OFF
Right indicator button : OFF
ASC button (if fitted) : ON
High beam switch : OFF
Low beam output : ON
High beam output : OFF
Horn output : OFF
Front park light : ON
Front left turn indicator : OFF
Rear left turn indicator : OFF
Front right turn indicator : OFF
Rear right turn indicator : OFF
Auxiliary socket : ON
Heated grip left : OFF
Heated grip right : OFF
Brake light PWM : 0.00 %
Rear/Auxiliary light PWM : 100.00 %
Film sensor heating : 8.00 %
ZFEs are beginning to die - if you try this and see nothing - either the switch the wiring or the ZFE are at fault
AKA this
Battery voltage : 12.00 V
Alternator Voltage : 0.64 V
Brake light switch front (if fitted) : 2.49 V
Brake light switch rear (if fitted) : 2.49 V
Fuel strip heater current : 20.36 mA
Fuel strip heater voltage : 0.64 V
Fuel sense voltage : 0.01 V
Horn button : OFF
Trip/Info button (if fitted) : OFF
Heated grips switch, level 1/push button : OFF
Heated grips switch, level 2 (if fitted) : OFF
Cancel indicators button : OFF
Left indicator button : OFF
Right indicator button : OFF
ASC button (if fitted) : ON
High beam switch : OFF
Low beam output : ON
High beam output : OFF
Horn output : OFF
Front park light : ON
Front left turn indicator : OFF
Rear left turn indicator : OFF
Front right turn indicator : OFF
Rear right turn indicator : OFF
Auxiliary socket : ON
Heated grip left : OFF
Heated grip right : OFF
Brake light PWM : 0.00 %
Rear/Auxiliary light PWM : 100.00 %
Film sensor heating : 8.00 %
Sorry for the late reply and thanks for that botus. There's a bike mechanic I know who has a GS 911 so I'll get the bike to him and see.
do you get the same failures with the switch i sent?
Yes, it's looking more like the ZFE. Thanks anyway.
Ok, took the bike to my Bike mechanic and his diagnostics can only see that there is no power been sent to the switches. He has suggested booking it into BMW at a cost of £140 just to find the fault!
So, options are, A, strap on a pair and book it in and HOPFULLY find the fault or B, try and find a used ZFE and hope it works, C, sell it on cheap...
So, options are, A, strap on a pair and book it in and HOPFULLY find the fault or B, try and find a used ZFE and hope it works, C, sell it on cheap...
That was one of the first things I did. Took the tank off yesterday aswell to have a good look but nothing.
It seems that the left and right hand switches get their 12v supply from different sources, (left hand from the ZFE, right hand from the BMS) - don't ask why 
. The switches when operated supply the 12v to the relevant pin of the ZFE. If you can measure volts at the ZFE pins when the switches are operated but diagnostics (GS911) don't see it then it is the ZFE itself that is faulty or its programming has become corrupted during your battery problems.
. The switches when operated supply the 12v to the relevant pin of the ZFE. If you can measure volts at the ZFE pins when the switches are operated but diagnostics (GS911) don't see it then it is the ZFE itself that is faulty or its programming has become corrupted during your battery problems.
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