Think I need new head bearings on my 1150. Done a search but nothing very clear.
Am I going to need a special tool to do this?
Am I going to need a special tool to do this?
Head bearings 1150
- Thread starter Rick 1600
- Start date
dancata
Registered user
From what i read, the manual is preety clear on this job 
Also, watch this http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=4197269208169026401#
Also, watch this http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=4197269208169026401#
I dont have a manual here. Also read somewhere not to do it like it says in the Haynes manual....
Would be handy.....Ta
There are no head bearings on an 1100/1150 - there's a bearing in the top yolk and the balljoint on the wishbone. If there is lateral play in the bars then you may just need to re-tighten the bolt that the top yolk pivots on. If that doesn't cure it then you probably need to replace the bearing.
If there is play in the balljoint then you'll need to replace it.
What are your symptoms?
If there is play in the balljoint then you'll need to replace it.
What are your symptoms?
Just done the bearing in the top yoke on my 1150. Stripped top yoke off bike, and pressed old bearing out. Then pressed new one in. I have a manual but only generly use it for reference, torques etc. Was a relativly straight forward job. Old bearing was very tight to remove mind, nearly 20t of pressure!! and had to leave ignition switch in place. Took the chance to give it a rub down and paint whilst the yoke was off.
If you'd read the manual.......
You're supposed to heat the yolk before you try to remove the old bearing - this expands the alloy slightly and releases pressure on the bearing, making it much easier to remove. I did, and the old one pushed out easily with not much force needed. You also heat the yolk before pushing in the new bearing.
If you'd read the manual.......
You're supposed to heat the yolk before you try to remove the old bearing - this expands the alloy slightly and releases pressure on the bearing, making it much easier to remove. I did, and the old one pushed out easily with not much force needed. You also heat the yolk before pushing in the new bearing.
DOH
............... So how did you remove the ignition switch? Tried drilling the screws and using an easy out but no luck...DOH
Providing the plastic multiplug is out the bottom, the rest of the switch is just a metal barrel lock isn't it? Wouldn't expect a bit of heat to bugger it.
I'm not sure whether mine is worn - the bars gained a lot of lateral movement on the way to Wales a few weeks ago and I had to stop at a garage and get the 10mm hex tightened - weird that it should come loose at all - but it still doesn't feel right. I guess with the bars being so wide, even the smallest movement at the centre is amplified a lot.
I didn't remove the ignition switch - just unplugged the connector (after removing the not-very-visible screw that holds it in place) and worked on the yolk with the 'mechanical' part of the switch in place. As stated, you don't need to apply so much heat to the yolk to remove the bearing that it'll risk damaging the switch. I used a hot air gun, directed carefully.
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