Heated clothing and ezcan

[GSJones]

Morning all

Has anyone connected heated gear to the ezcan successfully? I imagine there is some cutting of wires to fix to the ez can connectors.

Alternatively, i would connect straight to battery. I think the connectors come with inline fuses. I assume that there is no need to cut into an ignition source and that the connection (whether it be the heated clothing one or perhaps i may go for a din socket) will not drain the battery unless something us connected?

Thanks in advance

 

[Tractors are go]

They usually come with fused connections (for battery attachment), if nothing is connected then there's no current flow. If you check the wattage it will give you an idea of current used (most use a 5A fuse) and can decide which way suits you best.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

 

[GSJones]

The ones i'm looking at are around the 80 watt mark.
Gerbing's 12v version is useable with batteries but keis isn't. That may be a consideration.

With the wiring harnesses which come with these jackets I thi j it's easier to bypass the ezcan and go direct.

 

[GB.]

Don't bother using a connecter from the hexcan, direct from the battery with a fuse, save the hex connecters for something more technical.

 

[Mark Tyre]

Hi
I haven't used my Ezcan I have fitted but utilised the optimate lead instead. Hope the pics help.
Extra lead connected to jacket from eBay.
The optimate lead connected to bike becomes redundant when I'm riding so it made sense to use it for powering my jacket.

 

[wessie]

Gerbing & Keis make a variety of leads to suit whatever you want. On my Explorer I go straight to the battery and have a pigtail sticking up a few cm in front of the seat. On my R1200RS there is a power outlet under your right thigh, so I use this as my Keis gear is under 5A combined, so won't trip the canbus. Again, I have routed the cable so that the lead sticks out at the front of the seat. As stated, if you have a pigtail for a battery charger then you can use that using one of the accessory leads. Just make sure whatever you use has a correctly rated fuse, either in the lead itself or via the accessory socket if used. Keis supply a pack of different fuses and a table on the leaflet on how to work out the fuse rating, depending on the number of devices used - you can have a jacket, gloves and insoles running off one supply.

 

[Ron from BC]

Your 80w for heated is only around 6.6A which would be okay for one of the two high power channels on the Hex ezCAN however I would agree with the other poster and put your heated gear directly to the battery with an in line fuse and leave the two high power (20A) channels free. I have an air horn and additional pair of aux lights to the two 20A channels, a radar detector and Skene Photon Blaster lights spliced into one of the 4A leaving the 4A aux brake channel free. I have Skene P3's for the rear brake but wired them directly to a switched + source so I could retain their flicker capability.

 

[GSJones]

Thanks all. Will go direct to the battery I think.

 

[SPL]

Thanks all. Will go direct to the battery I think.

Probably your best; some of the heated clothing guys (such as the warm and safe gear I just bought) specifically tell you not to use other connectors as you risk overloading them with the higher combined draw of heated clothing.

 

[SPCK111]

I’ve wired my gerbing both directly onto the battery and also through a realy over the years. The battery gives much more heat.