Heated grip removal - Help please

[Speedy1959]

Hi All,

Before I splash out on a Haynes manual can anyone tell me how to remove the clutch side heated grip?
I have tentatively tried to remove it and unscrewed the various small screws (Including the hidden one under the Rubber Grip, next to the navigator wheel)..

Does the switch gear have to be separated?
Again its not obvious how that comes apart even when the 2 small "self tapper" type screws are removed..
I dont want to start forcing anything.

Thanks in advance.

S.

 

[knutk]

Hi All,

Before I splash out on a Haynes manual can anyone tell me how to remove the clutch side heated grip?
I have tentatively tried to remove it and unscrewed the various small screws (Including the hidden one under the Rubber Grip, next to the navigator wheel)..

Does the switch gear have to be separated?
Again its not obvious how that comes apart even when the 2 small "self tapper" type screws are removed..
I dont want to start forcing anything.

Thanks in advance.

S.

The grip is held in place by the hidden screw that you have removed. The grip also holds the switch cluster. The grip and switches are to be removed as one unit. You have to disconnect the switchgear, there is a connector in the switchgear. There is a separate connector to the heated grip, found in the same area.

When you have pulled off the grip with the switches attached to it, the grip is connected to the switchgear with a lip that pokes inside the switchgear and is held in place with a loch that you are able to release by help of a mini screwdriver.

As for Haynes, I strongly suggest to get a repair manual if you intend to do any work on your bike. The bikes are not difficult to work on, but you have to know how it's done, and a proper manual may be the difference between a successful repair and a major screw up.

 

[Redmonster]

Here you go


No bitchy remarks from me.

 

[knutk]

Here you go

No bitchy remarks from me.

Ouch...
Sorry, it will happen again.

 

[Speedy1959]

Brilliant..
Once again a big Thank You to those excellent replies...
Thanks for taking the trouble to scan and post the photo Redmonster.

Regarding Repair manuals, is the Haynes the one to go for?
Or have you any other recommendations that are preferable?

Simon

 

[Redmonster]

Ouch...
Sorry, it will happen again.

No bitchy remarks from me.

 

[Redmonster]

Brilliant..
Once again a big Thank You to those excellent replies...
Thanks for taking the trouble to scan and post the photo Redmonster.

Regarding Repair manuals, is the Haynes the one to go for?
Or have you any other recommendations that are preferable?

Simon

No problem
Haynes is ok.
I’m in the process of stripping my bike down for service and few other bits.
Using the Haynes has helped a lot.


No bitchy remarks from me.

 

[Winjar]

No problem
Haynes is ok.
I’m in the process of stripping my bike down for service and few other bits.
Using the Haynes has helped a lot.


No bitchy remarks from me.

Super, if you see easy way of getting front shock ESA sachs out, will be great, to not have to take tank away, cannot see other way to get to bolt at top.

 

[Redmonster]

Tank needs to be removed


No bitchy remarks from me.

 

[r1happy]

I had the front shock out of my 1250 over the winter, and the 1200 is the same. You can’t get access to the front shock top bolt without removing the petrol tank.

 

[Winjar]

I had the front shock out of my 1250 over the winter, and the 1200 is the same. You can’t get access to the front shock top bolt without removing the petrol tank.

Thank you guys, no shortway possible then.

 

[knutk]

Thank you guys, no shortway possible then.

On the other hand, removing the tank is not a big deal. Just make sure you did not top of the tank prior to commencing the job.

 

[Winjar]

On the other hand, removing the tank is not a big deal. Just make sure you did not top of the tank prior to commencing the job.

Yes thanks, and at least some good youtube vids to help, it can wait till winter.

 

[Speedy1959]

Hi All,
On Sunday morning my stubbornness made me dismantle the heated grip and switch gear. The whole assembly was very greasy!
I had already bought some "WD40 switch cleaner" after someone on this forum recommended it..
I gave the whole lot a very thorough degreasing.. The switch assembly looked like the previous owner had been in there to try to unstick sticky switches..
When I put the switch and grip back together, nothing on the left side worked.. No indicators, Horn, Light switch or flasher !
I must admit i panicked a little at first..
Then I looked carefully at the wires that plug into the switch unit (next to the mirror bracket). They "seemed" to be inserted OK.
I removed them and refitted them and still nothing worked.. In what I thought was desperation I tried rotating the plugs 180 degrees and straight away noticed the plugs went into the sockets by about an extra 8mm or so!

Now when I turned on the ignition it all seemed to work.
I reassembled everything and went for a ride..
Lo and behold (for whatever reason) the heated grip is now working....
In case anyone has a problem with the orientation of the sockets I have attached a photo showing the colours of the wires in relation to the handlebar switch assy.