Heated grips Handlebar Switch wiring

[sykospain]

Now that I've finally found a suitable How-To video on converting from one style of handlebar to another, on bikes with the dreaded accident-prone Heated Grips, see video link below...

I now need a schematic or drawing or whatever of how the heating element wiring is connected through the handlebar control switch - off, semi, full.

¿ Has anybody here got the time or interest to let me have a clue or a link ?

I know there's a twin pair of plus&minus wires coming out of the white connector on the rider's side of the headstock, accessible by pulling the tank back, and they both go to the respective left or right handgrip...

BUT one of both of them surely MUST go via the throttle-side grip's H.G's switch, otherwise there'd be no heat control.

To watch this 'private' Vimeo video, you need the password :-
watchthis

https://vimeo.com/227105432

Any help with how the wiring connects to the switch would be most appreciated, 'cos my factory-issue workshop manual on BMW DVD is back in the ole UK, where the bike is siesta'ing.....
Muchas graçias,
AL in s.e. Spain

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Not sure this is what you are after.

 

[sykospain]

Thanks Ian - an excellent schematic.
What I really need though is a more specific guide as to how or whether the two separate heated grips coils under the handlebar rubbers are connected to each other via the long wires and then down to the 4-pin power plug/socket hidden under the front of the tank.
( Tank needs pulling back to reveal this white connector ).

On my '04 Rockster with non-working HGs, there's been a deal of botching or frigging going on in the past, as you see in the attached foto. Different hand grip rubbers, the centre of handlebar between the risers is wrapped with tape, so there's clearly no possibility of the heater wires emerging from the pre-drilled hole underneath the handlebar as they should. And finally what seem to be heater wires splurging all over the left-hand grip and going down past the tripletree.

So when I get to the bike in the UK in a fortnight's time, before I swap over this too-straight bar which punishes my wrists on long trips, to the Motorworks used OEM roadster bar which is waiting there for me, I'll first of all have to fix the non-working grips.
Regards,
ALAN in s.e. Spain

 

[Ian J Hartley]

To power the heated grips you just need 12v across the two wires. This will give them full power and they will be at their hottest setting.

If you want to have the function of a lower heat setting then you need to drop the voltage across the heated grips. On the bike this is done by switching in a length of resistance wire 1.9 0hms between the 12v and the grip.

So circuit for full power is

Battery +ve - fuse - switch - heated grip - battery -ve.

The circuit for Half power is

Battery +ve - fuse - switch - resistance wire - heated grip - battery -ve.

It doesn't matter which way round the grip is connected, but convention is brown wires are usually earth or battery -ve.

Because the grips are in parallel. You can wrap the two black wires together and the two brown wires together.

 

[sykospain]

Brilliant, Ian - so simple.

On my previous two R1100S bikes, two separate Scarvers and a late 80's K75 in the past, I never used to use the HG half-heat option in typical UK cold weather, so your suggestion of simply bypassing the HG half-heat switch position is the simplest and most practical option, provided I can find where and in which of the two grip-windings is there a burnt out section, as shown in Chris Harris's two videos on the subject of HG wiring repair.

This bike in the UK is the second Rockster that I've owned in recent years; I chipped the first one in for a brand-new Honda NC750S-DCT to bring to Spain in August 2015.

It's a clever design with 6-gears operated by oil pressure on two separate wet clutches, a Honda 'New Concept' that has revolutionised bike riding. And much better build-quality, finish, reliability and durability than any current BMW. And exactly half the price of a new R1200R that I went to the UK to buy in my summer hols.

Any option of full-auto or manual operated by two left-handlebar paddles, or instant manual-override in full-auto is offered by this bike, and it makes normal riding a phenomenally new and satisfying experience, freeing you of the chore of constantly clutch-lever-grabbing and foot-pedal-clunking, so you can concentrate exclusively on traffic conditions, knowing that the bike changes gear - up or down - faster, more judiciously and seamlessly than is possible by any manual operation. It even has a lean-angle sensor so it won't change gear in the middle of a curve.

On a typical ride-out through the mountain twisties here among Andalucía's deserted, beautifully-metalled roads, there's nobody in the "MBA" - Mad Buggers of Arboleas biking group - including big Dukes, Yams, Suzies and even a couple of the unspeakable Hardly-Doesanythings, who can exit from a typical 340 degree uphill corner in the middle of nowhere to 60 mph faster than my bike can. OK, one of the big boys with 30 bhp more power might catch me up and pass me a kilometer later, but none of them can roar away from that "first-gear" peg-scraping curve as fast as me.

Try one sometime - you'll be amazed. And thanks again for the wiring tips.

ALAN in s.e. Spain