heated grips

[zdaveuk]

when my heated grips are on the throttle sticks no return on it , basically when heat is on throttle becomes a cruise control, and now the left hand heated grip has stopped working so one hand is warm other is freezing and throttle sticks
any ideas ?

 

[Pukmeister]

My 1200 did this after I fitted my heated grips myself, due to not providing enough clearance.

I slackened the RH switchgear and moved it down the handlebar slightly, increasing the gap between the throttle grip and switchgear/bar end. Now when the grips get hot and expand lengthways, the throttle can still be moved and will snap shut when released.

Sounds like your LH grip is faulty too.

 

[Steptoe]

Usual for the L/H grip to be the first to fail.

The element breaks due to the constant pulling on the grip everytime you put the bike on the main stand.

Learn to put the bike on the main stand without pulling the bars.

 

[Psyko]

Good question!

Just discovered that my 1150 does this - I put the AX Magura bars on in warmer weather and I was wondering how to sort it. Will try and adjust it at the weekend as suggested.

On my old 1150, the left grip went (at one stage it heated up so much it burnt a hole in the rubber grip and then went "Kaput"). I was told it was the twisting/pulling motion when putting it on the centre stand.

I think you will find you can get a spare from Motorworks fairly cheaply - refitting it is a bit fiddly as you have to remove the plastic connector (on the end of the wire) to thread the wire through the bars. The Clymer manual describes this in detail. Although it is fiddly it can be done - with patience! If you feel your patience running out, put it down and take a break.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Psyko

 

[beermonster]

I think you will find you can get a spare from Motorworks fairly cheaply - refitting it is a bit fiddly as you have to remove the plastic connector (on the end of the wire) to thread the wire through the bars. The Clymer manual describes this in detail. Although it is fiddly it can be done - with patience! If you feel your patience running out, put it down and take a break.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Psyko

I found that cutting the old wire on the original grip and attaching the new wire with tape means that you can pull through the wiring through the bars. No need to remove the new connectors. Just need to tape and position them carefully to ensure they pull through the bar end and exit hole. By the way will cost you about £50.

 

[Psyko]

Job Done

Just to say that I moved my right hand grip between about quarter and half a centimetre to the left (i.e. inwards) and it seems to have done the trick. I put the bar end back on before closing everything up to check clearances etc.

I had forgotton that to get the plastic switch cover off (i.e. the bit that faces you with the heated grip switch etc. on it) and under which is the bolt to loosen the handgrip, you have to remove the mirror as there is a small screw into the switch cover from the "other side" as it were.

Not a big job if you take it steady. Just checked my invoices (I know!) second hand heated left grip was £20 from Motorworks - good nick.

Cheers.

Psyko

 

[sloukes]

Dumb question

How easy is it to replace the rubber grip when you have heated grips?
Just a question of carefully cutting the old one off and sliding the new one on, or is there more to it?

Steve

 

[Psyko]

Relatively Easy

If I recall correctly, the heated grip comes attached to the rubber bit (i.e. it is one unit) and just slides over the bar end. It is held in place by small screws just underneath in inner part of the rubber grip. You undo all the relevant screws on the hand control to liberate the grip, disconnect the plastic connector from the wiring harness and unhook the wires from the plastic connector (the fiddly bit). You can then gently pull off the heated grip and allow the wires to slide through the inner handlebars and out. If you are clever, you will attach a bit of string to the end of the wire so that this pulls through the bars as well. You can then attach the wires of the new grip to the string and pull it back the other way. Refit the connector (much easier) clip it into the wiring harness and reconnect the grip.

The reason I needed a new grip was that I pulled too hard trying to remove the old one (to fit new bars) and snapped the wires where it joins the grip (so I couldn't solder/tape it back up) So take it easy and don't force it.

If you have chance to look at a manual, you will see in picture format what needs to be done - particularly the fiddly bit unhooking the wires from the plastic connectors. As said above, you could just cut the wires and then splice the new wires on, but I decided to do it the recommended way.

Hope this helps,

Psyko.