Helicopter tape 'n stuff

[MattW]

I bought some helicopter tape to protect a few vulnerable bits of my new (to me) '12 GSA a couple of weeks ago and yesterday got round to having a go at sticking some on.

It's either not as simple to apply as I thought it'd be or I'm doing something wrong (or perhaps expecting too much of it).

I though I'd start off with the forks which already have a couple of tiny little stone chip marks but when stuck down onto the dark forks it tends to look really obvious due (I think) to air trapped underneath it in the tiny grooves formed by the machined surface. I think it'd be visually less of a problem on the gold coloured forks but despite two attempts I just can't get it to look reasonable on my dark forks and I've removed it while I do some research...

Are there any special application techniques for this stuff or am I going to have to live with the obvious "not very well applied tape" look?...

ta
Matt

 

[Fluffmeister]

On the stuff I got from Amazon, it sticks like the preverbial to a blanket, I have however (and hear me out) done some area's by spraying first with a bit of soapy water, then applying the tape, then using a squeegie, in this case a bit of an old tyre, to squeegee out all the air bubbles, it's stuck firmly and almost invisible.

The tape you are using and it's adhesive would be the decider on wether this method worked or not, it's the same method used to apply venture shield.

 

[MattW]

On the stuff I got from Amazon, it sticks like the preverbial to a blanket, I have however (and hear me out) done some area's by spraying first with a bit of soapy water, then applying the tape, then using a squeegie, in this case a bit of an old tyre, to squeegee out all the air bubbles, it's stuck firmly and almost invisible.

The tape you are using and it's adhesive would be the decider on wether this method worked or not, it's the same method used to apply venture shield.

Thanks

I got my stuff from ebay - it's 'genuine 3M' and thick (I could see it doing its job on helicopter rotors). I'm not getting any obvious bubbles as such but I think there are minute amounts of air trapped in the machined 'texture' on the dark anodised forks. The instructions say you can just stick it down as is or use your soapy water technique for larger areas (apparently Johnsons baby shampoo "only"). I might try the soapy water method but I could see it just trapping water in the texture rather than air...

Possibly it's just too cold at the moment - I might have another go when it warms up a bit.

 

[Beemerman59]

I bought some off Ebay to do my front forks and swing arm where the heel of my boot rubs against it. I did find using a hairdryer to heat the surface and tape first helped a lot especially when going over anything not entirely flat. It seemed to smooth out better when warm. Its very sticky and your thumbprints are embedded in it for ever.

 

[cookie]

you need to spray your fingers with the soapy solution if you are going to touch it

Isopropyl alcohol in water works too. that's what Invisible Shield supplies to fit similar sheet to phones, laptops etc.

some of the bubbles usually disappear on their own, but usually not all, and i can't see it doing so on an uneven surface.

 

[bisbee]

Use a hot air gun Have a look on youtube there are some how to vids

 

[Gundog]

soapy water..

 

[MattW]

Thanks everyone.
I'll give the soapy water thing a go this weekend

 

[Fanum]

Use a hot air gun Have a look on youtube there are some how to vids

THIS WORKS.^^^^^^^

If it's PROPER 3m stuff, it's remarkable how it stretches out and 'heals' itself back to original form with heat.....It needs to be warm and stretched on.

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JoN5pBGHN7M" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[MattW]

THIS WORKS.^^^^^^^

If it's PROPER 3m stuff, it's remarkable how it stretches out and 'heals' itself back to original form with heat.....It needs to be warm and stretched on.

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JoN5pBGHN7M" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Mine is PROPER 3M tape but that vid is for Rhino tape. I can say with absolute certainty that you couldn't do what he shows in that video to the 3M tape I have...

 

[tanneman]

I've not known it to be called helicopter tape. Blade tape we used to call it. Whilst it is not the easiest to apply, warming it does help and get a little flexible tool that can spread the tape as you apply pressure to get it to form to the shape of the object. Pay attention to any joints and indentations. This will prevent the forming of air bubbles. Probably not worth saying but make sure the surface is clean and free from any fatty deposits like fingerprints or greasy solvents. Electrical solvent cleaner works ok for cleaning. Cut a radius on the edges, this way the corners will stay down longer. Beware when taking it off. I don't know how strong the paint are on the forks legs but some strips of tape did lift flakes of the matt paint from the helicopter blades. Once again warm it a bit before removing.

If you are really fussy you would make a template so that each of the strips can be cut to the same dimensions.

 

[Leasouth]

As far as I know 3M's VentureShield has been the market leader for some years now and and "Helicoptor" tape is an older less advanced product.

Most world class race car teams and others use Venture Shield to protect their paintwork and graphics and it also helps GRP and carbon Fibre panels hold together and spring back to shape in crashes. In endurance racing iprotects the windscreens and headlamps from debris and is applied in 2 or 3 layers as a "rip off". Venture shield as far as I know offers the best clarity so is ideal on windscreens and lights

My old friends at Showtrax can cut and supply VentureShield template kits for many cars and bikes http://www.showtrax.net/prods/vehicles/

I've also seen the same kind of demo as above and far more extreme with various grades of VentureShield

http://3mcarcare.co.uk/venture-shield.php?page=vs-videos&pID=9

 

[DING-DONG]

As above, i buy ventureshield in rolls from Showtrax and make my own kits if there not available.
I'm just about to fit a full kit to a twin cam, i always do the fork legs, saves em from unwanted stone chips.

 

[MattW]

Thanks for the information

I'll have another go this weekend using a hot air gun to help.

Ding Dong - do you apply it wet or dry when you apply it to bikes?

Tanneman - no problem removing it from the fork legs - they're anodised aluminium but I know what you mean - it would be tricky to take it off a painted surface...

 

[DING-DONG]

Ding Dong - do you apply it wet or dry when you apply it to bikes?
...

You apply ventureshield wet so that you can work it, I've also applied some very small pieces dry in the past, with applying dry you only get one chance on position so would not recommend to a newbie.

Ideally you need a warm place to apply venturshield because it needs 24hr to heal after applying, I've got some helicopter tape kicking around and prefer venturshield .

If you ring Showtrax go thro to sales, ask for Lyndsey he will sort you out, you can buy 1m sheet of Venturshield its not expensive and it comes with the application bottle (just add water) .