HELP!! 1150 twin spark, coil stuck

ELIMINATOR

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HELP!! 1150 twin spark, coil stuck First I had to loosen the Hepco & Becker bars on the R/H side. Thought I'd do one side at a time. But with the other spark plug in, it's hard to rotate the rear while to align the timing mark.

I can't get the bloody coil off, r/h side done, this side the bloody plastic widget thing just pops open. I've just sprayed it wirg WD40 in an attempt to loosen it. Any ideas?

While I'm here, what's the torque wrench setings in case I hacve to adjust the rocker float. Seems to be 3 off Torx bolts and AN OTHER.
i'M DRIPPING WITH SWEAT RIGHT NOW..........EVER WISHED YOU HADN'T STARTED SOMETHING?
 
Flat bladed screwdriver top and bottom of the coil/plug cap, gently lever.

i never use the crap plastic puller on the twin spark, they just spread open and pull off ( ooh err missus )
 
Click on this link if you have about two days spare to read through it..... :)

http://www.advrider.com/Wisdom/OREPADv1.0.pdf
Rocker arm endplay Adjustement


According to this fella......

3xT45.........18nm

1x15mm......20nm..plus 180 degree turn

Then do your valve adjustements.......... :thumb

Should be done by winter............... :D
 
Thanks mate,I thought of this, but I was wary of scratching the paint. In the end I undone the rocker cover & it came out that way. The metal sleeve was bubbled with rust, :P probably didn't help. I have put ACF50 on this metal bit, & red rubber grease on both ends, (coil end & spark plug end.) Gaps were only a fart in the wind out. The rocker end float was bottom limit, used my Halfords Torx bit, bloody thing shattered. :eek: To make matters worse, I locked myself out of the house.

I had to loosen off both sides of the crash bars as well. Bloody boring & laborious job.

What's happened to all the other Smilies? I can't open them?

I've read the Adventure site stuff before, I just checked one at a time. Steppers has said before that the yank stuff is completely OTT.
 
ELIMINATOR said:
HELP!! 1150 twin spark, coil stuck

So as not to mar the valve covers and possibly chip the coil casing by using metallic tools, use a ~10" long tie wrap. Loop it around the input wire, move it as close as possible/hold it flush against the coil body, and pull.

Next time, put a thin coat of high temperature silicone grease on the inside of the rubber boot. I do the same to the O-ring on the oil filter. It has never stuck since.
 
Bronco Billy said:
G R. Simple and efective.....YDM.... :)

Yeah, and you can always use those tye-wraps to hold frames together if on a LWR tour. :)

FYI...
I'm going to start buying the heavy duty tye-wraps with the steel tab insert...they never let go. Some of the cheaper (non Panduit brand) all-plastic/nylon tye-wraps that I've bought, have let go. And in the case of motorcycle use, they should be UV resistant for outdoor use.
 
Ones from work are free :D :clap :nono

Had to buy the plugs & oil filter kit from SPC . Oil filter kit includes the gearbox & fd sealing washers. Ferkin £23 :eek:

Never again. Steppers was out of all the bits I wanted. Next time, I'll have the foresight to get the bits up front.
 
ELIMINATOR said:
Oil filter kit includes the gearbox & fd sealing washers. Ferkin £23 :eek:

£23!!! Thats almost what it costs here, but in Canadian dollars or about £12.

Cripes, no wonder so many Brits are moving to Canada. Yeah, that B&B near the Euro Tunnel wanted £80 for the night. They dropped the price when I told them I didn't want to buy the place; I just wanted a room for the night.
 


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