Help - g/s drive shaft gaiter

oldnfat

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Had the gearbox out of g/s - now back in and swing arm refitted with the new gaiter on …but buggered if I can get the gaiter on the gearbox end. Using a new gaiter from motorworks.

Any words of wisdom from all you rebuild gods in how to approach this before I sweat another gallon of fluids!

Any help very much appreciated.
 
Had the gearbox out of g/s - now back in and swing arm refitted with the new gaiter on …but buggered if I can get the gaiter on the gearbox end. Using a new gaiter from motorworks.

Any words of wisdom from all you rebuild gods in how to approach this before I sweat another gallon of fluids!

Any help very much appreciated.
Silicon spray?
 
Lube, tiny fingers, find the right tool. I used a 90 degree pick and screwdriver, carefully!
 
bowl of hot water , 5 mins , no lube. I used a 90 degree pick and screwdriver, carefully!

if it is too short the lube lets it slip off.
 
I bent an old metal camping fork handle about 1/2" - 3/4" from the end (not the tine end!), 90 degrees. It had a curve to it which happened to match the curve of the gearbox output flange. The tine end of the fork is easily gripped in your hand. I hook the bent end at 12 o'clock in the gaiter with the 6 o'clock part already engaged. And pull. No sharp edges, no lube.
 
Right, a combo of bending a flat bit of metal and a screwdriver, taking the shock off and using the word “feck” allot…we have success.

Decided not to lube up 😁

Thanks all for your collective knowledge👍
 
You are not going to like my reply.

I have had this problem and managed to accidentally puncture the gaiter in the first attempt.

I achieved success through the following steps.

1. Rear shock off - so the swingarm can be levelled

2. Subframe off - for access

3. Battery and battery box off - for access

With this lot out of the way I was able to get it on relatively easily.

Many will tell you don’t need to do this and I’m sure it’s very possible without.

In my case, it just made a tricky and sweary job so much easier
 
You are not going to like my reply.

I have had this problem and managed to accidentally puncture the gaiter in the first attempt.

I achieved success through the following steps.

1. Rear shock off - so the swingarm can be levelled

2. Subframe off - for access

3. Battery and battery box off - for access

With this lot out of the way I was able to get it on relatively easily.

Many will tell you don’t need to do this and I’m sure it’s very possible without.

In my case, it just made a tricky and sweary job so much easier
Feck me that was some amount of removing for a wee simple Job!!

:hide:hide:hide


:beerjug:
 
My method,
No lube,
Shock disconnected.
Swing arm trunnions out,
Gaitor pre fitted to swing arm
This way you can manipulate the swing arm over to the left and get the gaitor over its tunnel so you’re only trying to work on the more accessible side.

Very Similar to the way I do it @mikeyboy Except I leave the left trunnion in a bit so it supports that side

Whilst wiggling things ooo Err Matron
 
Feck me that was some amount of removing for a wee simple Job!!

:hide:hide:hide


:beerjug:

I hear you.

It worked though and I equate the lack of swearing that ensued in contrast to the earlier failed attempts, as something more correct in approach ?
 
I never buy rubber parts from anywhere else other than a BMW dealership. I found the Motorworks hard to put on… (and possibly crack early) never had a problem with the genuine item…(they are not the same!) Same goes for gaiters, pushrod rubbers etc.
Pattern parts are mostly OK for everything else.
 
I managed with a bent bit of metal and making sure the swingarm was horizontal….
No lube, I went in dry!
I have heard of some people using the later airbox metal clips so help ease it on…..worth remembering if you have to do this away from your garage! ( if you have the older airhead metal clamshell, just nick some from a later bike!)
 


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