HELP NEEDED EXHAUST STUDS SNAPPED

[The smudger]

I have to remove 3 exhaust studs from the heads of my 1100GS, anyone had this before/got any ideas?

This one snapped, there's about 1cm showing, enough to get a nut on?

The nut came off this one on the same side, again i could get a nut on this one as well.

This is the other side, more luck this side, 2 of the studs came out, the nut came off this one but the studs had it

I have tried gently heating around the base of the studs and mole grips, but no good.

Is there a small enough stud extractor to do these????

 

[MikeP]

Is there a small enough stud extractor to do these????

If there is, I don't think that anyone has found it as many have experienced the same problem and had to resort to other means.

When one snapped on my 1150, I tried various extractors but there was never enough room for the smallest. I decided to drill it out in situ, reasoning that if I buggered it up I'd have to remove the head and there was a chance that I wouldn't (I didn't and got away with it).

 

[davegs]

Studs

If all else fails take the head off and take it to a good engineering shop, get them to use a high powered arc welder, put the earth clan mp on the head and the rod on the stud end. Hold it on a thigh current, the stud will get red hot,
remove the rod and allow the head / stud to cool naturally. The stud will then be easy to remove, if not repeat the procedure and leave it hot for a bit longer.
Despite the sceptic posts this will attract this always works the first time I saw
it was on a mates 1100. You will need a good high current welder the usual home fan cooled units will not cope. Good luck with it.
Dave GS

 

[ChrisH Kerry]

If all else fails take the head off and take it to a good engineering shop, get them to use a high powered arc welder, put the earth clan mp on the head and the rod on the stud end. Hold it on a thigh current, the stud will get red hot,
remove the rod and allow the head / stud to cool naturally. The stud will then be easy to remove, if not repeat the procedure and leave it hot for a bit longer.
Despite the sceptic posts this will attract this always works the first time I saw
it was on a mates 1100. You will need a good high current welder the usual home fan cooled units will not cope. Good luck with it.
Dave GS

I've done this a few times and it's always worked. Also handy if bolts snap and leave threaded part in hole - you can tap the welding rod to top of bit left getting it stuck, turn off welder and when rod is cool wind out threaded bit with the rod.

 

[The smudger]

I've done this a few times and it's always worked. Also handy if bolts snap and leave threaded part in hole - you can tap the welding rod to top of bit left getting it stuck, turn off welder and when rod is cool wind out threaded bit with the rod.

What type of welder will i need to do this on the bike?

 

[ChrisH Kerry]

As Dave said you need something fairly heavy duty, I have an old oil cooled Oxford arc welder that does the job but ordinary home DIY welder probably isn't up to it, though you could try I guess*. You don't want to actually strike an arc, just get the rod stuck to the stud and it will heat it up red hot, plus I think maybe the electrical 'shock' also helps to break the stud free...maybe.

*Probably not such a good idea as you could just burn the welder out though

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

when you've eventually snapped them all off flush, ....drill them out with a centre drill, then finish with a helicoil drill and tap.

 

[casper]

I brazed nuts on mine and then wound them out while hot.

 

[davegs]

As Dave said you need something fairly heavy duty, I have an old oil cooled Oxford arc welder that does the job but ordinary home DIY welder probably isn't up to it, though you could try I guess*. You don't want to actually strike an arc, just get the rod stuck to the stud and it will heat it up red hot, plus I think maybe the electrical 'shock' also helps to break the stud free...maybe.

*Probably not such a good idea as you could just burn the welder out though

A second recommendation for oil cooled Oxfords, years old and then s/h brilliant tools. They are greatly improved when put on a little trolley with wheels!, ex supermarket trolley wheels are brilliant!.

 

[Posh Pete]

I brazed nuts on mine and then wound them out while hot.

That's worth a try but didn't work when this happened to my 11RS. Had to take the head off and take it an engineering shop. Drilled out, heli coiled. Jobs a good un.

If the heads are in a bit of state cosmetically then chuck in a good vapour blast and some smoothrite and do the job properly.

 

[JayC]

Take the head to a machine shop and have it done accurately.

 

[MattW]

When I took the exhaust off my 1100, both the centre inboard studs snapped off flush with the head. As I was removing one head anyway (blown head gasket) I took it to a local machine shop and had them drill it out and helicoil it.

The other head, I left alone and bolted the exhaust back using just the two remaining studs - its been fine for years. I replaced all the studs with stainless and use brass nuts rather then the oem dome nuts - I shouldn't have the same problem again.

If you want to give it a go without removing the head, do as Kaister says and drill it out carefully starting off by grinding the end of the stud flat (assuming enough is poking out - a dremel is good for this) and accurately centre punching the remains.

Whatever you do, don't try a stud extractor - they are the tool of the devil and when you almost inevitably snap it off in the stud you'll have to get it spark eroded out - I've been there when I was young and stupid(er).

 

[The smudger]

Update on the broken studs.

The upper one (smallest bit showing) has the most room around it so i bought a Draper roller type stud remover. It did go on and 'bit', and the stud definately moved!

Although the euphoria was short lived......

The tool just slipped off...

I think if i modify the tool (need to grind the end off by a few mm as that will enable me to get the tool further on) and that may be just enough...

The 2 middle studs that have not snapped, but are rotten are another problem as the fin on the inside of the stud is too close, thus preventing the tool from going on.

I did think that if i used a dremmel as described on here to grind them down flat, I could, using a sharp drill go through them and eventually get them out..

I did also think that using the dremmel i could 'shave a few mm off the fin next to the stud. This would give me a better chance as i could then get the stud extractor tool over the stud???

I dont think taking a few mm off the head fin will make any difference??

 

[robc]

Smudger,
You live about 20 miles north of me. I can't help personally but I had this happen on one of my bikes in the summer. My local spanner man put me in touch with a guy who does this kind of work on the side. For £30 he drilled out the stud and helicoiled it. I can put you in touch with him if you like. He lives in Stalbridge but you would need to get your bike to him and leave it there for a few days until he has time to sort it for you.

Not sure if I can get PM's since my subscription ran out (forgetful me) but we can sort something out.

Regards

Rob C

 

[Dr Bones]

If you can (or know some who can), weld a nut on the end of the broken stud. The heat should free it off, then you can just unscrew it with a socket / spanner.

 

[Bendy toy]

Arc welding puts heat directly into the stud and breaks the seizure.

It can be done with any home welding set and needs no real welding skills. Just enough to get the stud red hot or more.

If there is not enough space for a nut, arc weld directly onto the stud and use the extractor tool to turn it. All it needs if the concentrated heat to expand the old stud.

If doing this on the bike ALWAYS disconnect battery, alternator and pull all fuses to protect any other electronics. Welding currents and voltage spikes can do all sorts of damage.

 

[Steptoe]

If doing this on the bike ALWAYS disconnect battery, alternator and pull all fuses to protect any other electronics. Welding currents and voltage spikes can do all sorts of damage.

Ohh, i can a 10 pager looming.

 

[Dr Bones]

Ohh, i can a 10 pager looming.

I just disconnect the battery and the expensive stuff (ECU and ABS)

Technically the current only flows between the earth clamp and the part you are welding, but I'm sure someone far more qualified will come along shortly to correct me.

 

[Timpo]

 

[JayC]

If there is not enough space for a nut, arc weld directly onto the stud and use the extractor tool to turn it. All it needs if the concentrated heat to expand the old stud.

The stud is stuck , meaning there is no clearance between the stud and the tapped hole it is stuck inside. How is expanding the stud going to create the clearance required to undo it?