HELP No Oil Pressure

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tdn

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hi guys my 06 R1150GSA has the oil light on when it shows 6bars on the oil temp panel, she rattles like a pig untill 2k rpm then goes a big better.

picked it up after having camchain tens done, found it needed 1.5lt of oil having rode 20miles back to work.

put oil in rang shop and told them what had happened.

went to wootton bassett on sunday 130 miles, and had to be taken home as oil light came on when stationary.

1, should i let them repair it?
2, should i get a full bike refund as i purchased it from them?
3, im a mechanic and no oil pressure and riding it is NOT good, so what other damage has been done?


what do you think?

Thanks in advance:mad:
 
Back to shop. How long have you had the bike? Any warranty (should be 3 months min) Don't sound good!
 
the rattle could be your throttle bodies ,with engine running reach round on the r hand tb and press on the cam that the cable fit to if rattle gos away its the tb's
how did you check your oil level?if you just put on centre stand you have probably way overfilled it you need to pull out the plug on the bottom of the air-box and see if any oil comes out ,if a load comes out check your air filter
 
the rattle could be your throttle bodies ,with engine running reach round on the r hand tb and press on the cam that the cable fit to if rattle gos away its the tb's
how did you check your oil level?if you just put on centre stand you have probably way overfilled it you need to pull out the plug on the bottom of the air-box and see if any oil comes out ,if a load comes out check your air filter

You're ignoring the fact that the oil pressure light is on when the engine's rattling - worn TBs don't cause that! Neither does over-filling.

Take it back to the shop and ask them to either sort it within an agreed time frame or take the bike back and give you a full refund. But don't keep riding it - if you keep riding it when you know there's a problem they could argue that you made the problem worse and that'll cause warranty problems.
 
hi guys oil level is correct now, needed 1.5 lt im going to try and get a refund i think as ive only done 500 miles since i bought it and its been back 3 times already! shop gave me a 12 month warranty.

done about 20miles home from shop after repair b4 i checked the oil and it needed 1.5 lt!
 
first question, how did you check the level before you added 1.5L

Question 2, When did you notice the rattle? was it during the Heros ride? A hot boxer engine sounds like a bag of nails, a slow parade is not what the GS enjoys.

Question 3, Have you tried a new oil pressure switch?
 
You're ignoring the fact that the oil pressure light is on when the engine's rattling - worn TBs don't cause that! Neither does over-filling.

Take it back to the shop and ask them to either sort it within an agreed time frame or take the bike back and give you a full refund. But don't keep riding it - if you keep riding it when you know there's a problem they could argue that you made the problem worse and that'll cause warranty problems.
not ignoring at all ,as its a new to the op bike they could easily be unrelated
and if it is simple problems it would be a shame to give up on it
but i would get the shop to look at it .
if it wasn't oil checked in the correct way its easy to way overfill
 
first question, how did you check the level before you added 1.5L

Question 2, When did you notice the rattle? was it during the Heros ride? A hot boxer engine sounds like a bag of nails, a slow parade is not what the GS enjoys.

Question 3, Have you tried a new oil pressure switch?

checked as per hand book (hot), in viewing window, after getting it back from shop, and riding it back from the shop for 20miles with very little oil in it, as i know now know!
Rattle has always been there, that was one reason it went back and they fitted a cam chain tensioner.
 
you may as well try this
with engine running reach round on the r hand tb and press on the cam that the cable fit to if rattle gos away its the tb's
it will only take seconds
and with the oil you need to leave it on the side stand for about 10 min's then put it on the centre stand and leave for another 10 mins to get an accurate reading
have you checked the wire to the oil pressure switch?
it could well be something more but its worth checking the above as its all quick and easy
 
you may as well try this
with engine running reach round on the r hand tb and press on the cam that the cable fit to if rattle gos away its the tb's
it will only take seconds
and with the oil you need to leave it on the side stand for about 10 min's then put it on the centre stand and leave for another 10 mins to get an accurate reading
have you checked the wire to the oil pressure switch?
it could well be something more but its worth checking the above as its all quick and easy

DONE ALL THIS if you rev it to 2000rpm the rattle gets less and the light goes out! Tbs are ok, its deffo oil pressure................:blast
 
DONE ALL THIS if you rev it to 2000rpm the rattle gets less and the light goes out! Tbs are ok, its deffo oil pressure................:blast

right you are
the light comes back on when the revs are dropped back or not ?
 
I would still try a different oil pressure switch. It is the cheap option and may save an expensive engine strip.

It's only cheap if it's the oil switch that's the problem and he doesn't bu**er up a bearing or two by running it with low oil pressure.

Having it rattle below 2000rpm in conjunction with the oil light coming on doesn't sound like a faulty switch to me - sounds more like it's run a bearing (possibly by running low on oil, which the OP mentioned).
 
Gosh, there's some bollox being posted here!

The only things that will cause low oil pressure are the parts that are in the high-pressure oil circuit. These include:

  • The oil
  • The oil pump (plus its pickup)
  • The pressure relief valve
  • The galleries
  • The filter (has high-pressure bypass)
  • The oil-pressure warning light switch
  • The main and big-end bearings
  • The rocker shafts

What I would do:

  1. Ensure that the engine is full of an appropriate oil
  2. Whilst you're on that, fit a new filter
  3. Try swapping the pressure switch for a known good one
  4. MEASURE THE OIL PRESSURE - should be 50-85psi
  5. Take it back to the dealers

The description of the engine rattling like a pig suggests that it's the bearings but a pressure check would be the best indication.

Greg
 
Don't touch anything! Don't ride it The bike is under warranty, start changing things and the shop may well accuse you of causing the fault! Back to the shop, get them to arrange pick up, give them a time line to repair in writing. If they don't repair to a reasonable standard then it's a different matter BUT don't start swapping bits and pieces.
 
06 bike should have had the new type cam tensioners anyway.so why the change.loads of miles?sounds like a problem already there.
 
Rattle has always been there, that was one reason it went back and they fitted a cam chain tensioner.

So the shop did not cause the rattle by allegedly leaving your bike short of oil after the cam chain tensioner was replaced.

How much experience of BMWs have you? have you let another GS owner ride your bike to see what the rattle is.


I had a problem that made the bike pink like buggery at low revs and it got so bad that it was almost impossible to pull away, once I got moving the bike was fine.

Vines had the bike for a while, eventually sorted by replacing the Hall sensor.
 
As Thornley said, touch nothing and arrange for the shop to collect the bike.

If the oil light comes back on when the revs drop below 2,000 there is clearly an issue with the lubrication system. All the rest is irrelevent. Bike has fault. Bike is under warranty. Bike collected and fixed.

If they've already had several attempts try and reject the bike. Is it a BMW dealer?
 
Hello!
You did not mention where from the rattle goes out. I think that it rattles from the right side of the bike - from the right cam tensioner. You said that the tensioners were replaced, but only the left tensioner can be purchased in the modified version. The right tensioner is the old type, which has not been modified, because it was not rattling at start up.
 


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